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Valley of Fire State Park: A Perfect Day Trip From Las Vegas

Valley of Fire State Park is magnificent with its red and pink striped rock formations. It is home to the Fire Wave, pastel-colored slot canyon, Elephant Rock, mountain sheep, and other plants and animals. It’s full of historical and cultural history too! It has many hiking options to choose from as well as a gorgeous scenic drive.

Valley of Fire State Park makes for a perfect day trip from Las Vegas! Although one could easily spend a couple of days here, in this article, I share my tips for what to see and how to prepare when you only have one day at Valley of Fire.

About Valley of Fire State Park

Valley of Fire State Park spans almost 42,000 acres. It features beautiful red Aztec sandstone, multiple types of limestone, and shale. It is also home to a variety of wildlife and desert plants. It is home to roadrunners, lizards, coyotes, foxes, and desert tortoises, to name just a few of the creatures that live here . Valley of Fire State Park is also home to mountain sheep. I saw both rams and female mountain sheep during my visit. They are so majestic as they climb with ease on what appears to me to be sheer rock faces.

Valley of Fire History

According to information in the park, the area was once inhabited by the Basket Maker people and later the Anasazi Pueblo farmers. They have found examples of rock art and other evidence suggesting they lived here from 300 BC to 1150 AD. Additionally, the park has well-preserved petroglyphs dating back almost 4,000 years!

Park Fees

Valley of Fire is a part of Nevada’s State Parks system. If you have a National Parks Pass that will not work here at Valley of Fire. The entrance fee for vehicles with non-Nevada plates is $15 per vehicle. For vehicles with Nevada plates, it is $10.

Hours of Operation

Open daily from sunrise to sunset. 24-hour access is given to those camping at one of the campgrounds inside the park.

Park Amenities

Camping

There are two campgrounds at Valley of Fire State Park. With only a total of 72 campsites, these campgrounds fill up fast during the peak seasons.

In addition to the entrance fee, there is a per night camping fee. It is $25/night for non-NV vehicles and $20/night for Nevada vehicles. RV camping with utility hookups costs an additional $10/night.

If you can get a campsite, I highly recommend it! You’ll have more time to explore the park, plus you get to experience sunrise and sunset and see how the sun’s light illuminates the fiery red rocks the park is named for.

All campsites are first-come-first-served, so you need to plan to get there early to get a spot! I arrived around 10 a.m., thinking I was early enough. Boy, was I wrong! There was already a line to enter the park, and the ranger at the entrance station told me the camping spots were full.

Tip: You can also camp for free on Bureau of Land Management (BLM) land located outside the park boundaries, you will see RVs parked on the BLM land as you drive toward the park along the Valley of Fire Hwy after exiting off I-15 N.

When I visited Valley of Fire, I was on a road trip to see some Southwest National Parks. While doing this, I tried SUV camping for the first time. I considered camping on the BLM land outside of Valley of Fire, however, due to the fauna in the desert, there is next to no privacy, and since BLM land has no amenities like a bathroom, I opted for staying in Las Vegas instead.

Wi-Fi

Valley of Fire is one of the few parks I’ve found with Wi-Fi for purchase. I did not use it during my visit, so I can’t say how well it works. Cell data is very spotty inside the park, so if you plan to stay here longer than one day, you may find it useful to pay for one of their Wi-Fi plans.

Picnic Areas

There are no restaurants or food amenities within the park, so make sure to bring picnic supplies for your day trip to Valley of Fire State Park. There are small briquette BBQ grills at the picnic areas, so you can BBQ while enjoying the view. Peanut butter and jelly sandwiches are always a good go-to option for hiking that doesn’t require a cooler.

Bring lots of water, Gatorade, and drinks for your day trip here. I tend to go with what’s easy. So I stick with PB & J sandwiches or bring meat and cheese snackables. Snack bars are also nice to have during your hikes, and make sure to hydrate! This is especially important if you visit during the summer as it gets hot here! You are in the desert, so the heat brings its own element of challenge to hikes that would be easier if not for the heat.

Tip: One of the best picnic areas I found in the park is the Seven Sisters picnic area. It has good shade, BBQ grills, and great views!

Best Time of the Year to Visit Valley of Fire

Spring: I visited in late spring, and it was beautiful! The morning air was still cool, but by the afternoon, the temps were in the upper 80’s. When you’re hiking in the open with no shade, even springtime heat can begin to take its toll.

Summer: This is probably the busiest time to visit Valley of Fire State Park. It is also the hottest time of the year, with highs between 100 degrees and even sometimes reaching as hot as 120 degrees F! If you visit in summer, plan to get an earlier start than normal and bring lots of water and sunscreen!

Fall: Temperatures in the fall can range anywhere from the mid-60s to the low 90’s. It’s closer to summer temperatures in the Pacific Northwest.

Winter: Temperatures can get as low as freezing during the winter, but typically the daytime temps are mild and are often in the mid-70s.

Make sure to pack lots of water and sunscreen!

Getting to Valley of Fire State Park

Valley of Fire State Park is only a 1-hour drive from Las Vegas. It is about 55 miles outside of Las Vegas off Interstate 15. Take I-15 N to Exit 75. After exiting, follow signs for Valley of Fire. It is about another 12 miles along the Valley of Fire Highway before you reach the entrance station for the park.

If you’re staying closer to Henderson, NV, you can also access Valley of Fire via Northshore Road (highway 167) through the Lake Mead National Recreation Area. However, be aware that there is an additional National Park Recreation Fee of $25 per vehicle. The fee gives you access to the Lake Mead National Recreation Area for 7 consecutive days. It is a separate fee from the entrance fee at Valley of Fire State Park.

Two Entrance Stations:

If you drive up I-15, you will arrive via the West Entrance Station. There are maps and restrooms here. If you come before the pay station opens, there are self-pay envelopes you can complete in the little parking area to the right. Make sure to have exact cash if paying using the envelopes.

If you come via Lake Mead, then you’ll enter the East Entrance Station. This station is closest to Elephant Rock. It also has maps and restrooms in the parking area by the entrance.

Things to See During Your Visit

There are more stops and hikes to do at Valley of Fire than you will want to do with only one day to spend here. Below is a list of the main stops within the park. I also provide a suggested one-day itinerary below, as well as a Google Maps itinerary you can download for your trip. Make sure to download an offline map of the area before your drive to Valley of Fire.

Beehives (Quick photo stop from the parking area. ~5 min)
Atlatl Rock (Short walk and some stairs to climb to see these well-preserved petroglyphs. ~ 15 minutes)
Visitor Center/Ranger Station (look up times) (good for info and additional hikes for longer stays)
Mouse’s Tank Trail (0.75-mile roundtrip, sandy trail with petroglyphs ~ 1 hour)
Rainbow Vista (This 1-mile hike is along a sandy trail, best suited for the coolest part of the day as there is also no shade.)
Fire Wave (1.5 miles round trip to photogenic rock wave)
Pastel Canyon (0.25-mile unmarked trail through the short canyon to see pastel striped rocks. ~10 minutes)
White Domes (1.25-mile loop. Scenic loop trail where movies like Star Trek Generations and The Professionals were filmed. There’s also a picnic area here.)
Seven Sisters (Great picnic area)
Elephant Rock (quick stop by East Entrance)

Scenic Drive: Even if you’re unable to do the hikes listed above, you make sure to drive Mouse’s Tank road (later becomes White Domes Road) for an incredibly scenic drive. It is gorgeous driving both up and back down, and there’s a high chance you’ll also see mountain sheep during your drive.

In the one-day itinerary below, I share what I think are the best stops for your first trip here. Remember, depending on when you visit, the weather may be very hot. You might be surprised by how the heat affects your stamina, especially if you come from a milder non-desert area. I realized this after visiting Joshua Tree and Death Valley the week before I came to Valley of Fire. I found I could not pack as much into my day as I might in a cooler environment.

Suggested One-Day Itinerary to Valley of Fire State Park

Try leaving Las Vegas by 8:00 a.m. or before. The earlier you get there, the better your daytime heat and also the more time you’ll have before the crowds come. Make sure to bring your picnic lunch, snacks, water, and other drinks to stay hydrated and fueled for your hiking and sightseeing. Also bring extra sunscreen and a sunhat of some sort is also a good idea. This itinerary assumes you’re starting at the West Entrance Station.

Arriving at Valley of Fire State Park

Arrive at Valley of Fire State Park by 9:00 a.m., pay the entrance fee, and make the quick stop for a photo of the beehive rocks.

Beehives

This is a quick photo opportunity of some rocks that look like, you guessed it, beehives! It’s a quick stop on the right side of the road. Unless you’re really running behind, you might as well stop. Probably only 5-minutes to hop out and snap a few photos and hop back in the car!

The Fire Wave at Valley of Fire State Park.

Valley of Fire Visitor Center

After leaving the Beehives, continue straight until you see the (left) turn for the Visitor Center and Mouse’s Tank Road. The Visitor Center is a good place to stop and use the restroom and learn more about the desert environment at Valley of Fire State Park.

After your pit stop at the Visitor Center, continue up Mouse’s Tank Road. This is the most scenic drive in the park, well worth the drive alone!

The Fire Wave – 1.5 miles roundtrip

You’ll pass several stops as you make your way up to Parking Lot 3 (P3). The parking for the Fire Wave is on the right side of the road. The trail also starts on the right side. The Fire Wave is the longest hike on this itinerary, and it is also the most popular. I recommend getting it out of the way while it is cooler and before the crowds come. This hike will not disappoint! Plan 1-2 hours for this stop.

Sometimes during the summer, they close this trail due to a high number of heat-related emergency calls. The desert is no joke, so make sure always to have plenty of water with you and do your best to stay out of the sun during the hottest part of the day.

White Domes – 1.25-mile loop

After your hike to the Fire Wave, continue up Mouse’s Tank Road, and soon it turns into White Domes Road. You’ll follow the road all the way to the end, where you’ll find parking and a picnic area for the White Domes trail area. You may want to take a snack break or have a picnic here either before or after completing the White Domes loop trail.

The return loop makes a gradual ascent back and around to the parking area. The steepest part of the hike is that initial descent. This hike is a beautiful one, don’t let the steep sandy descent stop you as the trail levels out at the bottom, and you get a nice cool slot canyon to hike through before popping back out onto the trail. This stop takes 2-3 hours.

Picnic Stop

You can either have your picnic lunch at the White Domes picnic area or hop back in the car for what I think is the best picnic spot in Valley of Fire. You’ll drive back down to the main road (near the Visitor Center). At the “T” intersection for the main road, make a left, then drive about a mile where you’ll come to the Seven Sisters picnic area. This picnic area has good shade, large spaces, and BBQ grills too! Make sure to look for mountain sheep along your drive.

Elephant Rock

After you’ve had lunch, continue along the main road toward the park’s east entrance. You’ll see a parking area by the entrance station. Park here for the short walk back to Elephant Rock. It’s a 0.3-mile hike there and back from the parking area to Elephant Rock. You’ll follow the trail that goes alongside the highway. There is also a longer 1.2-mile loop that takes you up and around Elephant Rock. Please do not climb on the rock itself. It is fragile, and they want to preserve this as long as possible for future visitors to see.

Atlatl Rock

After visiting Elephant Rock, return the way you came, heading back toward the West Entrance. It’s about 5.5 miles from Elephant Rock to the Atlatl Rock Parking lot. From the road, you can see Atlatl Rock with its staircase rising above the desert.

The petroglyphs at Atlatl Rock date back to almost 4,000 years and are so well preserved they are worth this short stop. If it’s busy, you may need to wait in line to go up the stairs to see the petroglyphs.

By this time, you will most likely be ready to head back to Las Vegas to get some dinner and enjoy a relaxing evening in the city and possibly an In-N-Out burger on the way back.

With Extra Time

If you have time or want to add to your one-day itinerary, then you might consider adding one of the following short hikes to your itinerary.

Mouse’s Tank Trail, 0.75 miles. This is a sandy trail with no shade. It features more ancient petroglyphs.

Rainbow Vista – 1-mile hike, also sandy and hot, leads to a viewpoint of the rocky terrain. I do not recommend doing this during the hottest part of the day. It’s not worth it.

An optional 10-min stop on the way to the Fire Wave: The Pastel Canyon

This is an optional quick stop you can add to your one-day itinerary on the way to the Fire Wave. It only takes about 10-minutes to walk to this short but beautiful pastel-colored canyon and back again. There is no designated parking lot and only a small pullout on the right side of the road that fits 2-3 cars. You begin hiking on the right, following the rocky wash to a very short canyon with beautiful striped rocks of varying hues of reds and pinks.

Please read my article on hiking to the Fire Wave for tips on visiting it from this trail. (5-10 minute stop at Pastel Canyon unless using this as an alternate route to the Fire Wave)

Now to get that In-N-Out Burger…

August 17, 2021

Exploring Sunrise: Mount Rainier’s Northeast Corner

Sunrise sits at 6,400 ft. elevation, making it the highest point accessible by car in Mount Rainier National Park. Second only to Paradise as the most visited area of the park. There is a good reason people come here. It provides stunning views of Mount Rainier, hiking trails for all abilities, a huge meadow full of wildflowers, and a perfect place to watch (you guessed it) the sunrise! Whether you spend the day or camp in this northeast corner of Mount Rainier National Park, you will leave full of wonder and beauty.

Getting Here

Mount Rainier has four main entrance stations from which to enter this large National Park. Sunrise is accessed from the northeast White River Entrance Station. Get directions for all the entrances to Mount Rainier National Park here.

When to Visit Sunrise

Due to its high elevation, Sunrise gives visitors a limited window of time to enjoy its beauty. Typically you can access it from late June through the first part of October. The Sunrise Lodge and Visitor Center is only open from July to early September.

Try to come as early in the day as possible to avoid the crowds. Even on a weekday, the parking lot can fill up around noon. The weekends are especially busy, so get an early start to avoid long lines at the park entrance and to ensure a parking spot.

Things to Do at Sunrise

Hiking

There are so many hiking options that leaving from Sunrise. Here are a few favorite day hikes I recommend.

Frozen Lake Loop – 3.0 mi (Great place to spot mountain goats.)
Fremont Lookout – 5.6 mi (Old fire lookout with spectacular views.)
Shadow Lake Loop – 3.0 (An easy hike starting on the south side of the parking lot — opposite the Sunrise Lodge.)
Dege Peak – 4.0 mi (Hike to over 7,000 feet with 360-degree views!)
Sunrise Nature Trail Loop – 1.5 mi (Short hike that’s easy enough for younger kids too.)

A few easy overnight backpacking options:

Note that these backpacking options require a wilderness permit. The good news is you can now reserve your spot and get your wilderness permit at Recreation.gov. This makes planning a lot easier!

Sunrise Camp near Shadow Lake (This is an easy overnight option for beginners and kids. It’s only 1.3 miles from the Sunrise Visitor Center. No potable water, but you can filter water from Shadow Lake or pack it in. It has vault toilets.)
Berkley Park (It’s only a 4.5-mile hike to Berkley Park, you’ll need to get a permit to camp here, there are bear poles for hanging your packs and a creek to filter water from (no potable water). There is also a primitive outdoor toilet. Make sure to take time to hike up to Grand Park from here and admire its beauty and perhaps spot a bear or two.

Yakima Park as seen from the main trail. Sunrise Lodge is in the distance.

Watch the Sunrise

I know it seems a little cliche to watch the sunrise at Sunrise, but there’s a reason they name these areas what they do. Here you’ll see the morning light as it first touches the top of Mount Rainier. It’s like a spotlight shining down and illuminating its snowcapped peak. You can also watch from Sunrise Point just a short drive below Sunrise and enjoy the deeper colors that develop over the Cascade range. If you’re feeling ambitious, consider hiking to Dege Peak for sunrise and enjoying the unobstructed 360-degree views. Plus, you’ll get to stare at Mount Rainier for the entire hike back!

Soft light bathes the area around Sunrise.

Look in all directions to capture the pastel colors of sunrise.

Look for Wildflowers

Walk the trails along Yakima Park (meadows in front of the lodge and visitor center). You don’t have to walk very far to enjoy the variety of wildflowers that grow here. Take a right and follow the wide path near the main restrooms, and in only about 5-minutes of walking, you’ll soon have the meadow on both sides with sweeping views of Yakima Park and the Sunrise Day Lodge.

Look for Wildlife

It used to be fairly common to see cinnamon-colored black bears roaming the meadows at Yakima Park. I haven’t seen one in years, but if you hike up to the ridge either via Sourdough Ridge, Dege Peak, or Frozen Lake, you’re almost guaranteed to see some mountain goats and possibly a marmot or two. Listen for their chatter as they tell other marmots of your approach.

Visit the Sunrise Day Lodge

Make sure to go inside the Sunrise Day Lodge and look at gifts and souvenirs. You can also purchase something to eat and chat with a Park Ranger. If the Sunrise Visitor Center is open, you can learn more about Mount Rainier and the Sunrise area. The Sunrise Lodge is only open from July to early September.

Enjoy Having a Picnic With a View

The Sunrise Picnic Area is a gorgeous place to enjoy a meal with your family. My family once celebrated my niece’s birthday here, and it was such a fun way to create memories together. The picnic area at Sunrise also sports incredible views of Mount Rainier. There are lots of picnic tables to choose from! Head past the Sunrise Day Lodge and make a right in front of the restrooms, then follow the wide path as it curves left, soon you’ll see a small trail on the right that leads to the picnic area. Follow the labyrinth of small trails for more picnic options to choose from.

Camping Near Sunrise

Visiting Sunrise at Mount Rainier is a perfect way to spend a day, but I highly recommend you spend a night or two camping here for the full experience. The White River Campground, only a 25-minute drive away, is the closest campground to Sunrise. It makes a great base for exploring the northeast corner of Mount Rainier National Park.

You can even hike to Sunrise from White River Campground. This takes about 3 hours roundtrip to do, or if you’re traveling in a group, you could always have someone drop hikers off at Sunrise and then hike back down to White River. This is a fun idea if you’re camping with a family.

Other Hikes Near Sunrise

Naches Peak Loop Trail (Gorgeous loop hike that takes you past alpine lakes, meadows, and forests.)
Tipsoo Lake Loop (Easy, mostly flat 0.5 mile loop around Tipsoo Lake, good for reflection photos and views of Mount Rainier.)
Emmons Moraine Glacier. (See my article on camping at White River Campground for more information on this hike.

Mount Rainier Webcams

Perhaps you’re unable to make the trip up to Mount Rainier right now, or maybe you want to take a peek to see whether or not the mountain is out. Whatever the case may be, Mount Rainier National Park has several webcams set up in the different areas of the park that allow you to see what’s happening on the mountain.

I personally love looking up at Camp Muir and Camp Schurman and seeing the tents for those making the trek to the summit. It’s such an adventure they are embarking on and one I’ve secretly thought about doing. Perhaps, you have to. Well, these webcams can give you a sneak peek into the mountaineering experience.

Mount Rainier is such a beautiful place. It holds a special place in our hearts who live near it, and I believe everyone who visits will leave feeling a connection with its beauty and grandeur.

So much mountain to explore, so little time!

July 30, 2021

Hike to Mount Rainier’s Dege Peak For 360° Views

If you want a hike with 360-degree views of Mount Rainier, Mount Adams, Mount Baker, and the North Cascades, but with minimal effort, then consider hiking to Dege Peak.

Dege Peak is one of the less crowded trails from the Sunrise Visitor Center at Mount Rainier. Most of the people I saw were headed toward the Burroughs Mountain or Frozen Lake trails. Once I passed the turn-off for the Sourdough Ridge Nature Trail, I only saw about 10 people on my way to and from Dege Peak. On a clear day, you have wonderful views, and along the way, you might even be fortunate enough to spot mountain goats, marmots, elk, or even bears!

Getting Here: Which Mt Rainier Entrance to Use

Mount Rainier has four main entrance stations from which to enter this large National Park. For this hike, you’ll enter the east side of the park using the northeast White River Entrance Station. Get directions for all the entrances to Mount Rainier National Park here.

Two Ways to Access the Dege Peak Trailhead

Sunrise Point

You can begin this hike from the Sunrise Point parking area or Sunrise Visitor Center. If you start from Sunrise Point, it is 1.0 mile shorter round-trip (3.0 vs. 4.0 miles) than starting from the Sunrise Lodge parking lot, but there are no restroom facilities, and you have around an 800 elevation gain vs. 600 from Sunrise.

Getting to the Trailhead: Park at Sunrise Point parking lot. From the west end of the parking lot, look for trail signs for the Sourdough Ridge Trail. You’ll start your hike to Dege Peak here, and at about 1 mile in, you’ll come to the trail junction for Sunrise and Dege Peak. Make a right here. It’s just another .3 miles from the junction to Dege Peak summit.

Sunrise Lodge and Visitor Center

I prefer to start the hike to Dege Peak from the main Sunrise parking lot. There are restroom facilities here (there are none at Sunrise Point). Plus, with the Sunrise Lodge, there’s the ability to purchase a snack or drink before/after your hike. You can also shop for souvenirs to remember your visit to Mount Rainier or buy gifts to take home. If this is your first visit to Mount Rainier, you’ll definitely want to spend some time at Sunrise exploring the meadow area and visiting the Sunrise Lodge and Visitor Center.

Getting to the Dege Peak Trailhead: Follow the broad path next to the bathrooms (you walk past the Sunrise Lodge, and you’ll see the path on your right). From there, you hike up the dirt path, and soon you come to a large sign with a map of the Sunrise area trails. Follow the trail on the right side of the signs as it climbs up, and soon you come to a “Y” in the trail. Go right (away from Mount Rainier) for Dege Peak.

About Dege Peak Trail – Starting from Sunrise Lodge

Trail Length: ~ 4.0 miles (from Sunrise Lodge)

Elevation Gain: ~ 606 feet

Approximate Hiking Time: 2 hours (round trip)

Trail Difficulty Rating: Easy to Moderate
Overall I would rate this hike as easy. Even kids should be able to do this hike with minimal difficulty. However, I give it an easy to moderate rating given its exposure to the sun. I hiked this on a hot summer day, and there is almost no shade for the entire hike. In the summer, the heat combined with the elevation gain nudges this hike into the moderate range.

Features: 360-degree views, stunning views of Mount Rainier, wildflowers, wildlife, lake views, and multiple glacier views

Entrance Fee: There is a $30 single-vehicle entry fee good for 7-day consecutive use.

Restrooms: There are restrooms just past the Sunrise Day Lodge and snacks and drinks at the Lodge. Potable Water just outside the Sunrise Lodge entrance.

How to Pronounce Dege

Dege Peak was named after James Henry Dege, a notable businessman from Tacoma, Washington. During my visit here, I heard a variety of pronunciations. The two most common pronunciations were “deh-gay” or “day-gay.” The Park Ranger at the Sunrise Lodge pronounced it like “day-gay,” so perhaps that’s the correct one.

What to Bring on the Hike

Water (I only brought 16 ounces and wished I had 32, so bring plenty, especially on a hot day.)
Bug Spray (The bugs were pretty bad, so make sure to apply before you hike and possibly during too.)
Hiking Boots (I hiked in running shoes, but the rocky areas made this a little uncomfortable for my feet, plus hiking boots are good for ankle support.)
Trekking Poles (I didn’t use these, but they would be helpful in the rocky areas and last 200 yards or so to the summit.)
Sunscreen (This hike is really exposed to the sun.)
Sunglasses (Sunscreen for the eyes.)
Snacks (Or possibly a picnic lunch for the summit.)
Camera (You’ll definitely want a photo or two!)

Important to Know: Sunrise Parking lot is at 6,400 ft elevation and Dege Peak Summit is at 7,006. If you are not used to being at higher elevations you might get a little dizzy. Make sure to hydrate and snack during your hike to help avoid any elevation sickness symptoms.

Hiking to Dege Peak

I drove up to Mount Rainier that morning and settled into my campsite at White River Campground before driving up to Sunrise. It was a gorgeous day, with clear skies and warm weather. Warmer than I expected! By noon it was already 77 degrees at Sunrise!

I grabbed my camera and a bottle of water (later, I realized I should have brought two bottles), put on a bit of bug spray, and headed for the trailhead. It was almost 1:00 p.m. when I started up the broad path just past the Sunrise Lodge.

I stopped at the “Y” trail intersection to take a few photos of Mount Rainier and the meadow. As I began hiking up the trail toward Dege Peak, I was chased by a very persistent wasp. This is not the first time I was chased by a wasp while hiking at Mount Rainier. During my hike to Spray Falls, I also had to flee for my life for a long way down the trail.

Perhaps “flee for my life” is overly dramatic, but it was a little traumatizing for me. I won’t get into all my childhood run-ins with bees, but one only needs to watch My Girl once to realize these small creatures also come with a dark side. I jest, but needless to say, although I love honeybees, I am less a fan of wasps.

Multiple times along my hike to Dege Peak, I was chased by bees. One even began circling me over and over again. When I returned home, I did a little research and discovered bees and wasps alike are attracted to bright colors. Red, in particular, is perceived as a threat. What color do you think my favorite hiking shirt is? Yep! You guessed it– bright red! I guess I may need to find a new favorite hiking shirt after learning this new information.

Sourdough Ridge Nature Trail

Onward and upward. Soon, I reach the ridgeline and turn off for the Sourdough Ridge Nature Trail. The nature trail goes to the left, and Dege Peak continues to the right. The Sourdough Ridge Nature Trail is a great option if you’re hiking with smaller kids and want a shorter hike that still offers beautiful views of Mount Rainier. The loop only takes about 1-hour to complete and is mostly flat.

Wildlife Viewing Opportunities

Make sure to stop and look over the ridgeline along this section of the Dege Peak trail, as you’ll often spot wildlife below. I saw a lonely mountain goat (pictured above) during my hike. (To my dismay I did not see any lonely goatherds.)

I talked to another couple who frequently hikes at Mount Rainier, and they told me how they once hiked to Dege Peak, and at the top, they looked over the edge and saw a bear splashing around in the lake below! What an unforgettable memory! They also mentioned seeing elk here as there is an elk path that leads down the backside of Dege Peak. So make sure to bring a camera and stop to look for wildlife during your hike.

Sunset Point Trail Junction

I continued along the ridgeline with views of Dege Peak in front and Mount Rainier at my back. I didn’t worry too much about taking photos of Mount Rainier on the hike up, as I knew I’d be looking at it the whole way back down and have plenty of opportunities to photograph it then.

After the initial climb to the ridgeline, the trail flattens out for a long stretch before you dip down again and come to a fork in the trail. This is the turnoff for the Sunrise Point parking area and where you’ll pop out should you start your hike there instead of at Sunrise. From here, it’s only 0.3 miles to the summit.

The trail narrows and gets rockier as it begins a steady climb back up. Soon the trail curves sharply to the left for the final 200 yards or so to the summit. At this curve, there are nice views of the Sunrise Point parking area and Sunrise Lake.

Dege Peak Summit

I begin the final rocky climb to the summit and stop at every tiny shade spot possible. My water is now warm rather than cold, but I still appreciate having it! I get to the top, and there is one group leaving as I arrive. I have the entire summit to myself unless you count the 100’s of moths, flies, bees, and mosquitos who seem to think they own this place! Sadly, the bugs were so bad during my visit that I didn’t hang around very long. I took a few photos, admired the view in all directions, and headed back down the trail. I didn’t pack any bug spray with me. Otherwise, I would have reapplied it at the summit.

Bugs aside, the views at the top of Dege Peak are fantastic! You are at over 7,000 feet from here and with minimal effort! The summit would make a great picnic spot on a day when the bugs aren’t as bad.

The hike took me around 2 hours 10 minutes, and that’s with a lot of stops for photos and chats with other hikers. I think most will complete it in around 2 hours, but with kids, you could plan for up to 3 hours and go at a leisurely pace.

Now to enjoy staring at Mount Rainier for the hike back to Sunrise.

Final Thoughts About Hiking to Dege Peak

This trail typically has fewer hikers than the other trails in the area. The climb up is a gradual one, and during the summer, you have gorgeous wildflowers that line the path. The trail is dusty, and as I mentioned, there is very little shade. Definitely remember to apply sunscreen and bug spray before heading out.

For a slightly longer hike, start from Sunrise and follow the route outlined in this post, but on the return hike to Sunrise, take the Sourdough Nature trail to the right along the ridgeline. You’ll follow the ridgeline before you loop down and to the left to Sunrise again. This adds a little over a mile of mostly flat terrain and about 45-minutes more hiking time.

I bought a Klondike bar at the Sunrise Lodge. The hot sun along the hike to Dege Peak and back left me wanting something cold to drink (filled up with potable water just outside the lodge) and a cold treat before heading back to camp.

If you stay at White River Campground, consider hiking to Emmons Moraine Glacier from the campground and planning to hike the Naches Peak Trail the following day. I love hiking the Naches Peak Loop Trail! It has beautiful lakes, mountain views, and wildflowers everywhere!

Do you have a favorite hike at Mount Rainier National Park? I’d love to hear about it. This place is like a second home to me, and I’m always interested in learning about new trails and hikes I haven’t discovered.

Happy Trails!

The Best Viewpoint to Watch the Sunrise at Bryce Canyon

Plan to get up early at least one morning to watch the sunrise at Bryce Canyon National Park. Morning light is the best time to see the Bryce Canyon Amphitheater. You will be amply rewarded for your lack of sleep as you see the first rays glimmering over the tops of the hoodoos and bathing them in a gorgeous glow of light. The yellows and reds seem to sparkle, and the whole canyon comes alive!

In this post, I tell you my pick for which viewpoint to see the sunrise at Bryce Canyon, as well as two other options that make my top 3 choices for watching the sunrise when visiting Bryce Canyon National Park.

My Pick for Watching the Sunrise at Bryce Canyon

Although there are several options for watching the sunrise at Bryce Canyon, Inspiration Point was my first choice when deciding where to photograph the sunrise during my visit. I love getting up to see the sunrise. There’s something special about greeting the beginning of a new day. Morning light is also one of the best times for photography. This is especially true at Bryce Canyon! The canyon glows in the morning light, and the hoodoos are on full display, whereas later, they will be encompassed by the afternoon shadows.

Why Choose Inspiration Point?

I like that Inspiration Point has multiple designated viewpoints along the half-mile climb to the top. You get a closer look at the canyon from the lower viewpoint, then as you make your way to the upper viewpoint, you also pass a midpoint viewing area for an additional perspective.

Inspiration Point is also less busy at sunrise. Most people generally head for Sunrise Point, which is a good option, but a more crowded option. By choosing Inspiration Point, I was the first person there, and there was only a total of 6 of us up there for the entire sunrise! This made it a very leisurely and enjoyable way to photograph the sunrise and enjoy the views.

Inspiration Point allows you to look to the right toward Bryce Point and the left at Sunset Point and Sunrise Point. The smaller crowds, expansive views, along with the multiple viewpoints are why I chose Inspiration Point for my first option to photograph the sunrise at Bryce Canyon.

Getting to Inspiration Point

Trail Length: 0.6 miles (one-way)
Hiking Time: ~10 minutes to upper Inspiration Point
Elevation Gain: ~ 140 feet
Trail Difficulty Rating: Easy (It’s a little steep at the top, but it’s a wide trail and a short hike.)
Features: 3 different viewpoints of the Bryce Canyon Amphitheater, it’s also situated along the Rim Trail for those looking for a longer hike. It is wheelchair accessible to the lower viewpoint.
Restroom Facilities: Yes. There are pit toilets alongside the parking lot.

Tips for Photographing the Sunrise at Inspiration Point

What Time to Arrive

45-minutes before sunrise

I typically try to get to a destination at least 1-hour before sunrise. However, 45-minutes was plenty of time at Inspiration Point during my visit in spring. With 1-hour, you are assured of having the first pick of spots, even in the summer.

What to bring?

Camera
Wide-angle lens
(A smartphone camera works too!)
Tripod
Flashlight (For the hike up in the dark.)
Warm Layers (Gloves & a hat were really nice to have in the spring.)
Hiking Poles (This hike is short but steep at the upper viewpoint, so hiking poles are handy to have.)

What to expect?

There is a railing around the upper viewpoint so bring a tall tripod, or you’ll need to hold your camera to avoid the railing in your shots.

You are at a higher elevation, so the weather is typically colder than you would expect before the sun comes up. I visited in April, and there was still snow in spots along the trail. The Rim Trail to Bryce Point was also closed due to snow.

If, for some reason, you arrive and upper Inspiration Point is crowded, then walk back down the trail for a slightly lower vantage. There is plenty of room along this trail for you to find a spot to watch the sunrise. Be careful, though, as only the designated viewpoint areas have a railing. Keep small kids away from the canyon edge and watch your step, especially in the dark.

I think this is fairly well-known, but no drones are allowed in any of the U.S. National Parks. However, while I visited, someone put a drone in the air at Inspiration Point, and a ranger was there within 5-minutes. I have no idea how the ranger knew about it so quickly, but they did. I think they only gave the person a warning, but I assume you could be fined, so I wouldn’t take any chances.

Photography Tips

Photograph it from various vantage points and angles. I didn’t get a chance to scout out Inspiration Point the day before. Instead, I went directly to the upper viewpoint to set up my tripod for the sunrise. Then I later photographed it from the midpoint and lower viewpoint. Walk around the upper viewpoint and try some views on both the left and right sides of Inspiration Point. Use trees and vegetation to create depth and interest.

Try shots from up high and down low. Also, stick around a little while after the sunrise as the glow in the canyon gets brighter, and the colors really start to come out.

More Great Options for Watching the Sunrise at Bryce Canyon

My other top choices for watching the sunrise at Bryce Canyon are Sunrise Point & Bryce Point. Both of these have gorgeous views! I especially liked the view from Bryce Point. Partly I think, because the viewing platform jutted out, and it felt like I was suspended over the canyon. The trail to Bryce Point is completely paved, so although a little steep in spots, it is wheelchair accessible. There are also restrooms at both Sunrise Point and Bryce Point. Sunrise Point is popular for a good reason. It gives you sweeping views over the Queen’s Garden trail and canyon and makes a great (and popular) choice for photographing the sunrise at Bryce Canyon.

What to do After Watching the Sunrise

After watching the sunrise at Bryce Canyon, you are ready to hike into the canyon and see it up close! The morning light (and temperatures) make it the perfect time to hit the trails. If you only have time for one hike in Bryce Canyon, I recommend the Navajo Loop Trail & Peekaboo Loop combination hike. My hubby and I loved this hike, and it was the perfect way to see the canyon up close after viewing it from above at Inspiration Point. It really added to the experience to see it from a birds-eye-view first to the ground level.

June 25, 2021

Navajo Loop Trail & Peekaboo Loop Hike: The Best of Bryce Canyon

Bryce Canyon National Park is a gorgeous park worth spending a couple of days (minimum) exploring. The Peekaboo Loop and Navajo Loop Trail combo is one of the best, if not “the” best option for sampling all that is Bryce Canyon, National Park. Gaze up at the hoodoos as they tower over you, walk through an alpine forest and experience the Wall of Windows up close in all their glory. If you only have time for one hike in Bryce Canyon, this should be it!

About the Hike

This hike combines both the Navajo Loop Trail and the Peekaboo Loop Trail into a mini figure-8 combination loop. Depending on when you hike this trail, portions of it may be closed due to ice. Bryce Canyon is at over 9,000 feet in elevation. It often has snow that lasts into late spring. I visited in early April, and the Wall Street portion of the Navajo Loop Trail was closed due to ice.

Trail Length: ~5 miles (roundtrip)
Hiking Time: 3-5 hours (This really depends on how many photo stops you make, snack breaks, and overall pace.)
Elevation Gain: ~ 1580 feet
Trail Difficulty Rating: Moderate
The National Park System rates this trail as “strenuous.” I found it to be moderate compared to other hikes I’ve done. However, I will say the heat certainly adds an element of difficulty to the hike, so I can see why they would give it a strenuous rating when factoring in elevation change and weather.
Features: Close-up views of hoodoos, the Wall of Windows, pine forest, and opportunities to walk through natural “doorways.”
Restroom Facilities: Yes. There are restrooms in the parking lot at the trailhead, and there is also one restroom on the Peekaboo Trail near the junction for the Bryce Point Trailhead. This restroom is only open during the summer.

What to Bring

Water. Do not take this hike or any hike in Bryce Canyon without bringing ample water. The temperatures here can be intense. It may start cold, but by afternoon, you’ll be very thankful to have enough water to drink. I always say you never regret having too much water!

Trekking Poles. A hiking pole or two will be handy for the steep descents/ascents and the loose sand and rock that make up the trail. Trekking poles are useful for anyone with knee problems. My hubby had a bad flare-up with his knee bothering him, and his trekking poles were the only thing that made it possible for him to complete the hike.

Sunscreen. You will want to reapply during the hike. Trust me.

Snacks. It’s always good to carry a little extra energy for the hike. There are many great spots to sit and enjoy the views and have a little lunch break if you want to pack sandwiches and have a picnic among the hoodoos.

Important Information:

Hike this combination trail as early as possible. It gets hot during the middle of the day, and the Navajo Loop Trail, in particular, gets incredibly busy! Don’t allow the crowds to scare you off, though. Once you get on the Peekaboo Loop Trail, the crowds thin out considerably! When you are hiking back up the steep switchbacks of the Navajo Loop trail, you will be so happy you got an early start!

Plus, parking fills up at the Sunset Point parking lot, so the sooner you get here, the better. You can also park outside Bryce Canyon and take the park shuttle.

Bryce Canyon Parking & Trail Map

Here is a link to a map that gives you an overview of where the parking lots are located and the trailheads. For this hike, you’ll want to park at the Sunset Point parking area. If you’re taking the Bryce Canyon Shuttle, you will also get off at the Sunset Point shuttle stop. Follow signs from the parking lot to the Navajo Loop Trailhead. It’s near the Sunset Point overlook area.

Hiking the Navajo Loop & Peekaboo Loop Trails

I hiked this trail in April. I got up early to watch the sunrise at Inspiration Point and then drove to the Sunset Point Parking lot closest to the Two Bridges entry for the Navajo Loop Trailhead. My hubby was with me, and we ate a quick breakfast in the car before packing some water and snacks for the hike.

We started the hike a little after 9:00 a.m. It was still cold out when we left, so we wore layers, which we removed about halfway through the hike. Due to Bryce’s high elevation, you experience both mountain weather and desert weather. We started our days at freezing temps and then, by late afternoon, hovered near 80 degrees.

The Navajo Loop Trailhead

Make sure to enjoy the Sunset Point overlook before starting the Navajo Loop Trail. Chances are when you return to this spot, you’ll want to grab a bite to eat and relax, so take the time now while you’re still full of energy!

We made our way down the first series of switchbacks before coming to a small viewing area near the turn-off to the Wall Street section of the Navajo Loop Trail. Unfortunately, Wall Street was closed due to icy conditions, so we continued down the trail on the left side.

The next series of switchbacks is beautiful and similar to the switchbacks on the Wall Street portion (see photo above), however not as narrow. You’ll pass by the “Two Bridges” before popping out from among the hoodoos and into the tree line.

A Fork in the Road: Queen’s Garden & Peekaboo Trail

This trail continues a short way down from the Two Bridges before coming to a “T” in the trail. This is where you’ll have the option to go left for the Queen’s Garden Loop or head right to continue to the Peekaboo Loop Trail.

If you come down Wall Street, you pop out a little below this sign; however, the direction you go is the same. Go right for the Peekaboo Loop Trail. The left will take you back to the Queen’s Garden Loop and also the Navajo Loop Trail, which returns you to the top where you started.

Peekaboo Loop Trail

As you continue to the right, follow the connector trail as it crosses a big open section with pine trees and juniper bushes scattered around. After about .25 miles, you come to another sign for the official start of the Peekaboo Loop Trail.

This trail is shared by both foot traffic and people on horseback. We followed the sign pointing to the right for foot traffic, which had us hiking the Peekaboo Loop Trail counterclockwise. After hiking it this way, I believe this also points you in the direction to give you the best views and vantage points straight ahead. Plus, I felt this half was the more interesting of the Peekaboo Loop Trail.

From here, the trail quickly climbs back up into the hoodoos. The Navajo Loop and Peekaboo Loop Trails take you down to the canyon floor, back up above, back down again, and finally back to the top where you started. So prepare yourself for the ups and downs, but also know you will see so much beauty that it will all be worth it in the end. This combo loop trail could quite possibly end up on your list of favorite hikes of all time.

I did my best not to stop every 5 seconds to take a new photo, but it was still probably about every 30 seconds! My hubby is a good sport and goes with the flow. Both of us were enthralled by the variations in color and shapes of the hoodoos as we hiked along the Peekaboo trail. It’s a lot of fun pointing out different shapes in the hoodoos, much like cloud gazing. We’d say, “do you see that gnome over there?” Or “look at that elephant trunk!” Kids will also enjoy finding “creatures” among the hoodoos.

Nature’s Doorways

It wasn’t too long after hiking up the Peekaboo Loop Trail that we walked through our first “doorway,” or perhaps “window” is a better word to use. It’s like nature created a live polaroid for us to enjoy. As we walked toward it, the light was so bright that we couldn’t see the view on the other side. However, as we walked through the small tunnel, the view “developed” before our eyes. I don’t know why I love these as much as I do, but I was excited to walk through each one. I think we walked through three of these on the Peekaboo Loop Trail.

A Tricky Washout

The trail descends through another series of switchbacks similar to the Wall Street section on the Navajo Loop Trail, and briefly, you’re back among the trees. A washout area forked to the right, and we took a short snack break here. This was probably a good thing, as two hikers came by and started walking to the right up the wash, not realizing they were no longer on the trail. We let them know the trail was on their left, they thanked us and continued on their way. I think this was the only part of the Peekaboo Loop Trail where one could get off track. However, you would figure it out pretty quickly if you did accidentally miss the trail.

The Wall of Windows

Almost immediately after your descent through the short switchbacks, the trail heads back up, and we hike toward the Wall of Windows. We loved this section of the trail as we gazed up at the towering Wall of Windows. It looked so small earlier this morning as we peered down at it from Inspiration Point, and now here we were right next to it! There are many great points along this section to take photographs of the Wall of Windows and the view of the hoodoos in the canyon below.

Bryce Point Trailhead – The Halfway Point

After leaving the Wall of Windows, you descend into the tree line and out of the hoodoos. Soon you pass the trail which takes you to Bryce Point. Bryce Point is another starting point for those who want to hike the Peekaboo Loop Trail without hiking the Navajo Loop Trail. The Bryce Point trail was, however, closed due to snow when we visited in April. At this point, you are now about halfway through your hike around the Peekaboo Loop Trail.

Trail Restrooms

Not long after you pass the trail for Bryce Point, you come to a shaded resting area with a sign on the right for restrooms. These are closed from fall to spring. The main trail continues past the sign for the restrooms. There is also an area here where people on horseback can let the horses take a water break.

Back in the Hoodoos

I’ll admit, the section of trail after leaving the Wall of Windows was probably my least favorite of the whole Navajo and Peekaboo Loop Trails. It was a lot of walking through trees without a lot of scenic viewpoints. You do get a good amount of shade here, though, which you will soon miss when you pop back out above the treeline and into the hoodoos.

Soon, you’re admiring hoodoos, and there’s another “window” to walk through and more beautiful views to look forward to before you begin your descent back to the start of the Peekaboo Loop Trail. There is very little shade along this section of the trail.

Once back at the start of the Peekaboo Loop, retrace your steps (heading left) back to the fork for the Navajo Loop Trail and Queen’s Garden Trail and begin your climb back up to Sunset Point.

Alternative Hiking Options

Shorter Hike Option: For those who aren’t up to the longer Navajo Loop combined with the Peekaboo Loop, hike the Navajo Loop on its own for a shorter option. You won’t see the Wall of Windows up close or walk through the “doorways” carved in the rocks, but you still get a sense of the grandeur of the hoodoos and their colorful features. Plus, you also walk through a small section of the pine forest.

Longer Hike Option: For those wanting an even longer option, consider the “one hike to rule them all,” which combines the Navajo Loop Trail, Peekaboo Loop Trail, and the Queen’s Garden Trail! I still recommend starting at the Navajo Loop trailhead by Sunset Point and following the directions for the Navajo Loop & Peekaboo Loop combo listed above before exiting out via the Queen’s Garden Trail.

This gets the steeper portion of the loop out of the way on the descent. Then, you come up the Queen’s Garden Trail and end near Sunrise Point when you return. You take the paved footpath from here back to the Sunset Point parking lot. This is the easier option for the ascent. This figure 8 hike is considered a strenuous hike and is around 6.4 miles round-trip.

Sunrise Recommendation

To complete your scope of Bryce Canyon, I recommend watching the sunrise at either Sunrise Point or my choice, which was Inspiration Point. I watched the sunrise at Inspiration Point and then drove over to the trailhead for the Navajo Loop Trail. I think the morning hours are the best time to experience Bryce Canyon’s hoodoos as the sun causes them to glow red and orange.

At Inspiration Point, I looked out over the Bryce Canyon Amphitheater and saw the Wall of Windows far below. Later, as I hiked next to the Wall of Windows, it gave me a greater appreciation for the scale of Bryce Canyon. My hubby and I said to each other, “remember this morning when the Wall of Windows looked so far away?” It was a neat way to spend the day going from a bird’s-eye-view to the ground level.

Willis Creek Slot Canyon: A Fun & Easy Hike

If you want a fun and easy slot canyon that doesn’t require any big scrambles over rocks or narrow squeezes that require months of dieting to perform, then look no further than the Willis Creek Slot Canyon! The Willis Creek Slot Canyon is located in Utah’s Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.

This hike is perfect for families and anyone looking for a mostly flat slot canyon hike. I saw multiple families with young children, probably around the age of 5 or possibly younger doing this as well as older kids and teens. It’s a beautiful and enjoyable slot canyon hike good for all ages.

We chose to do this hike on a day where we spent the morning at Bryce Canyon, but we still wanted a short hike to do that afternoon. The Willis Creek Slot Canyon Hike is about 1-hour from Bryce Canyon National Park and only 30-minutes from Kodachrome Basin State Park. If you’re in the area, you’ll want to consider this fun hike!

Getting to the Willis Creek Slot Canyon Trailhead

The turn-off for the road to Willis Creek Slot Canyon is just outside the small town of Cannonville. Stop at the visitor center in Cannonville to double-check road conditions. If it has rained or will rain, then skip this hike.

Directions:

From Cannonville, head south on Kodachrome Road/Main Street for about 2.5 miles before it turns into Cottonwood Canyon Road. Take a right on BLM 500/Skutumpah Road. Stay on BLM 500 for about 6.1 miles before arriving at the parking area for the Willis Creek Slot Canyon trailhead. You will come to multiple forks in the road, but as long as you stay on BLM 500, you will arrive at the parking area after about 30-minutes of driving time.

*I used Google Maps to navigate to the Willis Creek Slot Canyon trailhead and had no issues. However, I read reports online of others who had issues with Google Maps telling them to turn down private roads. Perhaps Google fixed that issue?

About the Willis Creek Slot Canyon Hike

Distance: ~2.8 round trip

It’s approximately 1.4 miles one-way to the end of the slot canyon portion of this trail. We hiked to this point and then turned around.

Difficulty: Easy

It is a mostly flat, uneven, and rocky trail. Most people can navigate it without any issues.

Duration of the Hike: 2 to 2.5 hours

This will depend on how far you hike down the trail. We took around 2 hours to hike the 2.8 miles to the end of the slot canyon portion and back.

Road Conditions:

The dirt road to the trail is rough but typically doable with a 2WD vehicle. I saw everything from small cars, RVs, camper vans, and trucks on this road. It is a lot of washboard gravel road with some large potholes here and there.

Make sure to check road conditions at the Visitor Center in Cannonville. If it has rained the day before your visit or will rain, save this for another day. When the sand on this road gets wet, it turns into a muddy mess you do not want to deal with. It’s also not safe to hike in slot canyons if there is the potential for a flash flood. You can also call the Visitor Center at 435-826-5640 for more information.

The Trail:

The Willis Creek Slot Canyon trail starts across the road from the parking lot. Follow the dirt path through some brush and down to the creek bed. This is a mostly flat trail with very little elevation change. You’ll hike through a small section of slot canyon before it opens up into a wide wash area which you’ll follow for approximately 10-minutes before you’ll wind around another bend and find both a small waterfall and entrance to the main Willis Creek Slot Canyon area.

What to Bring

Bring hiking poles, plenty of water, and a snack bar or two. Make sure to apply sunscreen before starting the hike. Although you’ll be inside a slot canyon or the majority of the hike, there are a couple of stretches out in the open sun where it gets really hot.

Depending on when you visit, you will either encounter ice (we did in April), muddy conditions, or you’ll be walking through the creek water as you make your way through the slot canyon. Because of this, you will want to consider wearing shoes that you’re comfortable getting wet.

Things to See Nearby

Kodachrome Basin State Park (30-minutes from Willis Creek Slot Canyon trailhead)
Bryce Canyon National Park (1-hour from Willis Creek Slot Canyon trailhead)
Zebra Slot Canyon and Peek-a-Boo Slot Canyon (If you want a more challenging slot canyon hike, then choose one of these options also located in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.)
Cottonwood Canyon Scenic Drive: This scenic drive is typically driveable by 2WD vehicles, but first check with the visitor center in either Cannonville or Big Water to determine the current road conditions and find out if your vehicle can manage this off-road route.

Closing Thoughts & Places to Eat Nearby

Willis Creek Slot Canyon is an easy hike, good for kids and families or for someone who wants an easy but beautiful hike to add to their day. This is another one of those hikes where it’s about enjoying the journey, not necessarily getting anywhere in particular. Enjoy the shapes of the canyon as far as you want to go and then turn around and head back when you’re ready.

We enjoyed this hike after a morning spent at Bryce Canyon and after a long day of hiking at Bryce the day before. Sometimes you just want something fun and easy, or maybe you’re like us and need to work off that pie you ate for lunch. If you decide you want to do what we did and eat some really yummy cherry pie before your hike, check out Bryce Canyon Pines. Or maybe you need a pick-me-up before your hike, then stop at Bryce Canyon Coffee Co on your way. They have great coffee and friendly service too!

If you want some dinner after your hike, then grab some BBQ at i.d.k. Barbecue in the town of Tropic, Utah. A warning though, lines can be ridiculously long here. We had to wait over an hour to place our order! The good news is your food is ready within 10-minutes of ordering.

Mesa Arch at Sunrise: A Photographer’s Experience

Mesa Arch is a pothole arch in Canyonlands National Park. Although the hike out to the arch is relatively uninteresting, the arch and the view at the overlook make for a big payoff with minimal effort. And if you decide to hike out to Mesa Arch to see the sunrise, you will be doubly rewarded! Sunrise at Mesa Arch is an unforgettable experience worthy of the loss of sleep.

My Sunrise Experience at Mesa Arch

My hubby and I stayed at a motel in Moab, Utah. Moab is a common starting point for many of the area’s attractions, such as Arches National Park, Canyonlands National Park, Dead Horse Point State Park, and many other hiking and recreational opportunities. It’s about a 45-minute drive from Moab to the Mesa Arch trailhead, and I wanted to be at Mesa Arch at least an hour before sunrise.

This meant getting up at 4 a.m.! I’m fine with getting up at 6 a.m., I do that almost every day, but for some reason, any time before that just seems wrong. However, I knew that photographing Mesa Arch at sunrise was a popular activity, and I would not be alone. If I had any hope of getting a spot in front of the arch, I needed to sacrifice a little sleep to make it happen. My hubby is a good sport and was willing to sacrifice his sleep as well.

As we made our way up the winding road to Canyonlands National Park, we had one vehicle in front of us, and soon I had another behind. All I could think about was that I had to get there to get a spot! I had read other articles that talked about spots filling up even 2 hours before, but I was not ready to get up at 3, so I hoped (and prayed) that 1 hour before would be enough.

We arrived in the dark at the parking lot for the trailhead, with one other car following close behind. There were already a few cars in the lot, so I quickly grabbed my gear, put on my headlamp, and headed down the trail, walking as quickly as possible.

Hiking to Mesa Arch

The hike to Mesa Arch is only .50 miles (out and back), and so it takes around 15 minutes to hike to the arch. We visited the day before, so I could walk the trail in the daylight and get a feel for the area before visiting in the dark. I recommend you do this if you plan to photograph the sunrise. Not necessary, but helpful.

About the Hike:

Length: 0.50 miles (loop option or out and back)
Time to hike to the arch: ~ 15-20 minutes
Trail: First half of the trail is a wide dirt trail, then turns into more uneven terrain with some rock and stairs. Look for the cairns for help staying on the trail.
Difficulty: Easy

This hike is good for all ages, but it is not wheelchair accessible. Most people (including kids) can hike this trail with relative ease.

Important to Know:

Mesa Arch is set on the edge of an overlook that drops down 1200′ into the canyon below. Please keep your kids close by and be careful when getting close to the arch, as it is a long way down on the other side!

1-Hour Before Sunrise

I reached Mesa Arch a little over an hour before sunrise. There were only two other photographers there. I was so relieved! Since they were first, I asked them where they were setting up, and then I chose a spot to the left of them. However, before I really had time to set up my tripod, a fourth photographer arrived and placed her tripod right next to mine.

PHOTOGRAPHY TIP

Set up your tripod as soon as you get there, get your legs placed as wide as you need them because once other photographers arrive you may not have the room to change this. Also, the ground in front of Mesa Arch is rocky and uneven, so you’ll want to adjust your tripod legs to allow you the freedom to move your tripod height up and down as desired. All this needs to be done before you are crowded out by other photographers.

This was the main mistake I made, and I was somewhat restricted with my shots because of it. If this happens to you, you can always take your camera off the tripod and try some shots that way. If they don’t turn out, you can delete them, but you’ll most likely get some keepers.

Also, after you get your shot from the front of Mesa Arch, try moving around and capturing it from various angles. You might be surprised at which photos turn out to be your favorites.

45-Minutes to Sunrise

About 15-minutes after I arrived, there were around 10 photographers, with most of the prime spots filling up fast. One latecomer had the tenacity to ask if he could squeeze in between the two photographers who had been at Mesa Arch when I arrived. They graciously allowed him to, but I wouldn’t expect this. For most photographers, if they’ve made the effort (and sacrifice of sleep and coffee) to get there and get a spot, and you slept in, they’re going to be pretty territorial and expect you to find your own place on the edges.

While we were waiting, the photographer next to me, who was from Indiana, told me about a scene a friend of his observed during his visit to Mesa Arch. He said two guys actually took to fighting right in front of the arch because one of them wanted a spot in front. Let’s not forget that there’s a 1200 ft cliff on the other side, either! So, yeah, I guess things can get a bit ugly. Personally, I blame it on a lack of sleep and coffee.

30-minutes to Sunrise

With only 30-minutes to sunrise, all the main spots in front of Mesa Arch were filled shoulder to shoulder with photographers. Then a row started forming behind me. When the sun did finally start coming up, I’d be so busy taking photos I wouldn’t realize I had people behind me leaning over me. I raised up only to bump into the person behind me.

Honestly, the crowd is part of the experience. Everyone had to get up early to get there before sunrise, which means we’re all a tiny bit crazy, and we all love seeing beautiful displays of nature.

Go-Time: Sunrise at Mesa Arch

Things quiet down a little bit as the sun starts to peek over the La Sal Mountains. Everyone is waiting with anticipation as it finally breaks from behind the mountain range and casts its warm glow over the canyons below. The sun reflects off Mesa Arch, first starting as a subtle glow and then intensifying into a beautiful bright orange arc of glowing rock. The layers of shadows in the White Rim canyon below are a stunning backdrop to the glowing Mesa Arch.

The sound of shutters fills the air as if the paparazzi had just spotted some celebrity. Every photographer furiously tries to capture this beautiful sight. People with cell phones peer over the photographers’ shoulders to capture this moment, too; others walk along the fringes trying not to get in the view of the cameras. Some just came to see it. They stand back in awe, with no “device” in hand. They stand there capturing it with their eyes and mind. It was such a beautiful experience!

10-Minutes After Sunrise

I look around, and almost every photographer I had just stood shoulder to shoulder with has vanished. They packed up and headed off, most likely for coffee. However, I stay. I love golden hour, and the light and shadows in the canyon are too good to pass up.

I came to photograph Mesa Arch at sunrise, but here’s a little tip: the glow remains even after sunrise, and the lighting that bathes the canyon is incredible! So, if you really, really can’t make it for the actual sunrise, then get here as soon after as possible, and you’ll enjoy a relatively un-crowded view and still get to see some gorgeous light.

What to Bring When Visiting Mesa Arch for Sunrise:

Pack layers. Depending on what time of year it is, it might be fairly cold in the morning. We were there in April, and I wore gloves, a warm hat, and a sweatshirt and jacket. By the time we left, around 8:00 a.m. I no longer needed the gloves, hat, or jacket.
Water. Even though this is a short hike, it’s still a good idea to bring a bottle of water and a snack.
Trekking Poles. If you have any issues with uneven ground, these are a good idea. Also, in a pinch, a trekking pole can be used as a monopod for your camera.
Headlamp. Very useful when arriving in the dark. A headlamp with a red light is also a nice plus if you plan to arrive to photograph at twilight or plan to do any night photography.

Photographers:

Camera
Lenses (A wide lens is needed as everyone stands relatively close to the arch. I shot with a 14-30mm lens.)
Extra Batteries
Tripod
Dust cleaner for your lens. It gets windy here and dusty. Learn from my mistake and dust off the front of your lens mid-shooting to keep it clear of dust particles on your images.
Shutter Release Cable (optional)

The Night Before Your Hike to Mesa Arch

Make sure to charge all your batteries the night before and put a fully charged battery in your camera before going to sleep. Pack your bag with all your essentials and layout your warm clothes and things you’ll want to bring. If you’re like me, your brain doesn’t function at optimal levels that early in the morning. So having it all ready to go the night before really helps!

Getting Your Coffee Fix On the Go

We brewed a quick cup of hot coffee in the hotel for the drive to Mesa Arch, which was the bare minimum to get me by. I also pack a large bottle of cold brew in our cooler, which I drank after photographing the sunrise. Having cold brew with me when I’m on a road trip is a must!

Coffee Tip: Always keep a bottle of cold brew in your cooler.

Because I’m often getting up early, I don’t always want to take the time to heat water (if I’m camping) and brew a cup of coffee. With cold brew, I can get my caffeine fix quickly before anyone else gets hurt. Really it’s a safety measure for anyone traveling with me.

I love using oat milk or almond milk when I travel as it doesn’t need refrigerated until after opening. I make quick cold brew lattes like this vanilla oat milk cold brew using bottled cold brews, it takes one minute to make, and I’m ready to go!

Getting to Mesa Arch in Canyonlands National Park

Mesa Arch is located in Canyonlands’ Islands in the Sky section of the park, a 30-minute drive from Moab, Utah.

From Moab

Take US-191 N for about 11 miles. Then turn left onto UT-313 W. Continue on this road all the way into Canyonlands National Park and until you see signs for the Mesa Arch parking lot and trailhead (about 20 miles).

Parking

The parking lot is not very big, so during the day, it fills up quickly. However, I noticed that even during busy times, there seems to be a regular coming and going of vehicles because it is such a short hike. If it is full and there don’t seem to be any spots opening up, then continue driving toward the Grand View Point Overlook and stop at Mesa Arch on your way back.

Tip: There is a great overlook across the street from the visitor center and there are water filling stations at the visitor center as well. Make sure to stop here!

With Extra Time

The Islands in the Sky portion of Canyonlands National Park is really a beautiful place with gorgeous views from above. It also has the Shafer Canyon Road, a 4×4 road you can drive into the canyon, but it’s recommended you have a high clearance full off-road vehicle or motorcycle for this.

With extra time in the area, make sure to also visit Arches National Park and Dead Horse State Park. This is a beautiful area of Utah that you can easily spend a week (or more) exploring. However, even with only 2-4 days, you can see a good portion of these three parks.

Final Thoughts Regarding Mesa Arch

I know getting up early is not fun for most of us, but Mesa Arch at sunrise really is an incredible experience. For me, it wasn’t just the gorgeous sunrise and observing the glow of the sun on the arch. It was the crowd of people experiencing it with me, the anticipation, and the hike in the dark. I chatted with people from all over the country, Indiana, New York, Florida, and even a fellow Seattlite was two shoulders down from me. It was a way to connect with fellow humans and with nature.

It’s also such an easy hike, and it provides gorgeous views that often are only found on hikes that take miles of uphill climbing to reach. Again, if you can’t make it there by sunrise, then I highly recommend you try coming as soon after sunrise as possible. The lighting for the hour and even two hours after is beautiful!

Even if you arrive at Canyonlands National Park later in the day and are unable to visit for sunrise, you’ll still want to visit Mesa Arch. It is an interesting natural feature, and the overlook there offers spectacular views.

Have you visited Canyonlands National Park? If so, I’d love to hear about your experience. If not, I hope you’ll add it to your travel bucket list.

Happy Exploring!

May 7, 2021

An Amazing Day Trip to Haleakala National Park

A visit to Maui wouldn’t be complete without exploring Haleakala National Park and Upcountry Maui. The drive through Maui’s Upcountry is a gorgeous ride up winding roads with incredible ocean views below. As you rise higher and higher, you soon find yourself looking down on the clouds. It is an incredible experience! You feel as though you’re looking down on the entire world below, a view often only seen from an airplane, and yet, here you are, feet on the ground as you stare in amazement at the unique, almost Mars-like landscape around you. Once again, you’re reminded of what a magical place Maui is.

Getting to Haleakala National Park

It takes an average of 1.5- 2 hours for most visitors to drive to Haleakala’s Summit. This, however, doesn’t take into account additional stops along the way in Upcountry Maui, stops for shopping and food. I recommend leaving no later than 10 a.m. to have plenty of time to stop at a few places in the Upcountry as well as take in a couple of day hikes in Haleakala National Park. You want time to take it slow and enjoy the views along the way.

Average Travel Times to Haleakala’s Summit Building:

Makawao’s Rodeo General Store: ~ 1 hour
Kula Market Place: ~ 45 minutes
Lahaina: ~ 2 hours
Kihei: ~ 1.5 hours

The Drive to Haleakala: Stops Along the Way

One of the best parts about the drive to Haleakala is driving through Maui’s Upcountry. If you’ve never been, you will most likely leave, considering a stay there during your next visit to Maui. I love being by the ocean when I stay in Maui, but the beauty and views in the Upcountry are too incredible to miss! On a clear day, you look down on the island of Maui, across lush fields dotted with eucalyptus trees, avocado trees, palm trees, and other gorgeous flowering plants. I feel like I’m driving through paradise as I climb up to Haleakala.

First Stop in Maui’s Upcountry: Makawao

Anytime I visit Maui’s Upcountry, I always come to Makawao. I love stopping at the Rodeo General Store. I wander the aisles looking for unique finds and locally sourced products. It’s here I’ve found some of my favorite coffee, locally grown fruit, and fun finds like Grandpa Joe’s lilikoi cotton candy. The staff is always helpful and friendly, and it is frequented by the locals, which gives it that homey feel rather than a place designed for tourists.

On my last visit, I was on a hunt for lilikoi (passionfruit), which I had discovered when one fell from a tree during our hike at Waihee Ridge Trail. After trying it, I knew I had to find more! We drove to Makawao since we knew Maui’s Upcountry is where much of the produce on the island is grown. Sure enough, we found lilikoi at Makawao’s Rodeo General store.

We spoke with one of the employees who had a daughter attending the University of Washington. I told him about my hunt for lilikoi, and he suggested some other fruit to try too. He helped me pick out strawberry papaya and some ice cream bananas. I love sampling new fruits wherever I go; it’s how I discovered mangosteen during our visit to Thailand.

Another great place to visit when in Makawao is the Komoda Store & Bakery. Go in and purchase some malasadas for your road trip to Haleakala. You may want to grab some milk at the general store too.

Makawao has many fantastic local shops, so spend 30 minutes to an hour browsing the shops on Baldwin Avenue before continuing to Haleakala. Better yet, plan to come back another day and spend the afternoon exploring the Upcountry even more.

Rodeo General Store
3661 Baldwin Ave
Makawao, HI 96768

Komoda Store & Bakery
3674 Baldwin Ave
Makawao, HI 96768

Next Up: Kula, Hawaii

Kula is another beautiful town in Upcountry Maui. I love the gorgeously manicured lawns, the sweeping island views, and best of all, locally sourced goodies! I recommend visiting the following three local businesses in Kula, Hawaii, during your day trip to Haleakala. If you have extra time to spare, I highly recommend exploring more as there are many great choices in Upcountry Maui.

Maui Upcountry Jams and Jellies

It was during my hunt for all things lilikoi that I stumbled upon Maui Upcountry Jams and Jellies. We were in Kula when I came across Maui Upcountry Jams and Jellies’ website, which listed “lilikoi curd and lilikoi jelly.” I knew I had to go!

I thought Google must have led us astray when visiting their storefront, but after a quick phone call with Jan, the owner of Maui Upcountry Jams and Jellies, I found Google was correct. The storefront is in a residential neighborhood tucked behind a row of houses.

Jan helped us choose a variety of jams and jellies, and syrups. Oh, did I mention, she also has lilikoi syrup, and it is amazing! Afterward, she helped box and package our purchases to mail them home without any of them breaking. Our package arrived home in perfect condition, ready to eat.

I recommend you buy all the jams, jellies, syrups, and sauces while you’re in Kula and then ship them home from the post office in Kahului, Hawaii. We spent around $14 to ship ours home to Washington State, and it is a much cheaper option than purchasing on the Maui Upcountry Jams and Jellies website, which has a fixed shipping cost to the mainland of $48! So, stop in her shop when you’re in Kula and purchase a bunch to stock up on for home. You’re going to thank me later!

Maui Bees

Another great place to buy locally sourced foods is at Maui Bees in Kula, Hawaii. Depending on what day you visit, you might even be able to get lunch on the farm. In addition to honey, they sell other foods from the farm as well as gluten-free goodies. I love their honey! The first kind I tried was their Macadamia Nut honey. It has such a wonderful, different flavor than the clover honey I’m used to back home. It was love at first bite! I highly recommend it, and if you’re like me, you’ll come home and order more from their online store. They offer free shipping for all orders $99 and over.

Kula Market Place

The Kula Market Place is a great source for more locally sourced crafts, food, and gifts. There is a small grassy area in front of the market with a picnic table. The Kula Market Place is next door to the Kula Lodge, so if you consider staying in Kula during your visit to Maui, you might want to check them out! Also, notice the faded sign along the fence that borders the Kula Market Place and the Kula Lodge. Unless you want to do dishes for the rest of your life, you might want to think twice about taking any of their avocados.

With Additional Time in Upcountry Maui

I listed just a few stops in Maui’s Upcountry on your way to Haleakala. However, you could easily spend an entire day in Upcountry alone. You will find more ideas of things to do in Upcountry Maui in my post Sunrise at Haleakala National Park: Don’t Miss It!

Some tours I recommend with more time in Upcountry:

Make sure to look up hours of operation for any businesses and tours in Upcountry Maui you plan to visit. Many of them have odd hours and days when they are open, so you want to check ahead of time to make sure they’re open before driving up.

The Winding Road to Haleakala

Your climb continues after leaving Kula, and this is where the road really starts to get those twists and turns Maui seems famous for. It may not have as many curves as the Road to Hana, but it definitely does a good job competing.

You’ll soon enter a free-range area for cattle. Please drive carefully as cows are frequently found standing in the middle of the road! You do not want to hit a cow, trust me. Besides the damage, it will do to your car and the cow, you could also be responsible for paying for the cow out of pocket if your insurance does not cover these types of accidents. So take it slow and enjoy the ride!

There are several pull-offs during the drive up to Haleakala, and I recommend you pull off at one or two of them and enjoy the views. The rolling green hills dotted with cattle and heather bushes are beautiful. You might even be lucky enough to catch a rainbow during your drive. Remember, the joy is in the journey, so stop when it suits you and make the most of it.

Arriving at Haleakala National Park

When you enter Haleakala National Park, you’ll pass by a small ticket booth, and if you’re in the park during normal business hours, a ranger will be in the booth to answer any questions, take your money, and provide you with a map of the park.

It costs $30 for a 3-day park pass at Haleakala National Park. You can also purchase (or use) an Annual Parks Pass for $80 that is good for all U.S. National Parks.

After passing through the park entrance, you’ll drive about another 5 minutes before coming to the Haleakala Park Headquarters and Visitor Center. You can stop here to talk to a ranger and also use the restroom. There aren’t any other restrooms until you get to Visitor Center near the summit.

Recommended Hiking Trails for a Day Trip to Haleakala

There are three hiking trails I recommend for your day trip to Haleakala. With limited time I think these three trails give you great views and provide you with a good overview of the Haleakala shield volcano. Continue reading for more information on each of these.

Leleiwi Overlook Trail
Pa Ka’oao Trailhead
Keonehe’ehe’e Trailhead

Leleiwi Overlook: Don’t Miss this Short Hike!

A day trip to Haleakala doesn’t give you much time for long hikes or in-depth exploring. However, this doesn’t mean you have to miss out on incredible views or hikes in this unique terrain. The Leleiwi Overlook trail is only 0.15 miles but gives you incredible views inside the volcano. It’s your first opportunity to look down on this Mars-like terrain and imagine what it must have been like as an active volcano. Really, don’t miss this stop. It’s well worth the short hike!

Haleakala Visitor Center & Hiking Trails

The Haleakala Visitor Center near the summit is another great place to stop and enjoy more spectacular views with a couple of great hiking options. There’s a large parking lot at the Visitor Center as well as restrooms. Even if the visitor’s center is not open, it’s worth stopping here to take in the view and do a little hiking.

Pā Ka’oao Trailhead

The Pa Ka’oao trailhead is to the right of the Haleakala Visitor Center. Follow the sidewalk path, and you’ll see a sign for it near the overlook area. It is a very short but rocky uphill climb, and soon you’re rewarded with sweeping views of the crater floor. You can also see the sliding sands trail to the far right as it winds its way down into this shield volcano.

If you want to come up for the sunrise but want to skip the crowds at the observatory, consider hiking to the viewpoint for Pa Ka’oao to watch the sun come up. Sunrise at Haleakala is an unforgettable experience.

view from pa ka'oao trail overlook — Views from the Pa Ka’oao Trail Overlook.

Keonehe’ehe’e Trailhead

Walk to the opposite side of the parking lot from where you found the Pa Ka’oao trailhead, and you’ll find the Keonehe’ehe’e Trailhead near the road. This is also known as the Sliding Sands trail. With only a day trip to Haleakala, you won’t have time for a long hike into the crater, but depending on the time of day, you can plan for a short hike down this sandy trail. It gives you a new perspective on Haleakala, and there’s something special about walking into a volcano.

Make sure to pack plenty of water and some snacks for the hike. Although the trail might not look steep, the sand makes it a lot harder to hike than a normal hardpacked dirt trail. So plan for it to take longer than you think for the hike in and especially the hike back out.

The Summit at Haleakala

After spending time hiking and enjoying the views at the Haleakala Visitor Center, continue up the road all the way to the summit. There you’ll find an observatory (not open to the public) and the Haleakala Summit Building, which you can walk up to from the parking lot. There you’ll find the official elevation sign of 10,023 feet!

I later told my Dad about driving to over 10,000 feet on Maui, and he was surprised. He didn’t realize Maui had a mountain that tall. I think this is common with a lot of people who’ve never visited Maui. They think beaches and swimming, not cold, windy, over 10,000 feet elevation climbs!

There is a small trail above the parking lot, which you can hike from the Summit Building all the way around to the opposite side. I recommend you take the time to do this as it provides you with the highest views in the entire park and some great photo opportunities. If you’re staying for the sunset, consider scoping out a spot before it gets too crowded. Most people line up in front of the Summit Building or along the railing to the right.

Sunset at Haleakala

My first visit to Haleakala was to watch the sunrise. This required getting up in the middle of the night and driving over an hour from our condo in Kahana to arrive at the summit before the sun came up. It was freezing at the top, and I remember sitting there bundled in blankets sitting on the rock wall with other tourists as we anxiously awaited the sunrise. It was a spectacular scene and a memory I’ll never forget.

That being said, watching the sunset at Haleakala was also amazing, and guess what? I didn’t have to get up in the middle of the night to do it! A day trip to Haleakala is the perfect opportunity for you to watch the sunrise at Haleakala. You have a lot of options for where you watch the sunrise from. You can watch it on the summit at 10,023 feet. This is where most people view it, or you can drive down below the summit until you find a place to park and watch.

That’s what we did. This was partly due to my hubby needing to get back to our condo to finish some work before midnight. However, as the sun started to dip down and the brilliant colors started casting over the mountain, we knew we had to stop. We pulled off and set up our camera gear and enjoyed watching the gorgeous reds and oranges as the sun dipped below the clouds. It was just the two of us, and it was perfect.

Final Tips for Visiting Haleakala National Park

Avoiding Elevation Sickness

There is a good chance you will feel the effects of the change in altitude during your drive to the summit. It’s important to stay hydrated during your drive up and during any hiking. Also, bring snacks as this will help with the effects of the altitude. I personally felt lightheaded and a little nauseous, and I found that drinking water and eating the fresh coconut we’d packed really helped!

This article explains other ways to deal with altitude sickness, and it recommends eating foods rich in potassium, such as bananas or avocados.

Dress for Colder Weather

Most people don’t think of cold weather when they think of going to Maui. However, when you’re standing at over 10,000 feet, and the wind is biting your face and hands, you are going to be thankful for extra layers! It gets cold on Haleakala. They occasionally even get snow! When I visited for the sunrise, I wore base layers for skiing, jeans, coat, and hat. Additionally, I wrapped myself in a blanket, and still, I felt cold!

Even visiting in the evening, it was only around 40 degrees when I was there, and with the wind chill, it felt a lot colder. Make sure to pack a jacket (and sweatshirt) for hiking at Haleakala, and absolutely if you plan to visit for the sunrise or sunset, bring plenty of layers. You’ll be happy to have gloves too, so I’d toss those in when packing for your trip.

What to Pack

Plenty of water, snacks, sandwiches (if you’ll be there during meal times), layers of clothing, a jacket, hat, gloves, hiking shoes, tripod, and camera gear. There are no food services within Haleakala National Park. So you need to bring any drinks and food with you. If you stopped at the Rodeo General Store in Makawao on your way up, then you should be set! Make sure to wear comfortable shoes for hiking. The trails at Haleakala are very rocky. Flip flops are not appropriate footwear for hiking here.

Finally, remember to drive slowly, both going up and going back down. The cows are in the road both day and night, so this is especially important when you’re driving back down Haleakala in the dark. Also, watch out for Hawaii’s state bird, the nēnē. The nēnē is a medium-sized goose that sometimes crosses the road inside Haleakala National Park. They are an endangered species, so do your best to protect them and their habitat.

An Incredible One Week Oregon Road Trip

This one-week Oregon road trip explores some of the unique and lesser-known places to see in Oregon State. I wrote this itinerary based on my own road trip leaving from Seattle. Customize as needed to guide you from your home to each of these places to see in Oregon. I think one week is enough time to see each of the features listed on this Oregon road trip itinerary. However, some might complete it in less time, and others might prefer a slower pace. For example, my hubby and I did all of the things listed on this itinerary, except the side trip to Crater Lake, in 4 nights and 5 days of driving.

Oregon Road Trip Summary

Time Needed to Complete: About 1 week
Leaving From: Seattle, WA
Type of Activities: Hiking, Camping, Photography, Drone Photography, Exploring Oregon’s Natural Wonders
Approximate Total Miles (if leaving from Seattle): ~1400 miles

Map of This Oregon Road Trip

Click on the map to get driving directions to each location, feel free to customize according to your start/end points.

Overview of Stops on this Oregon Road Trip

The Alvord Desert

Oregon’s Painted Hills

Smith Rock State Park

Crater Lake

In-N-Out Burger (Yes, this is considered to be an important stop on this road trip.)

The Alvord Desert

This remote section of Oregon State is rugged and beautiful! Enjoy the drive through sagebrush dotted hills, deep canyons, mountain views, and gravel roads leading to the middle of nowhere. Relax in the Alvord Hot Springs, embrace your inner race car driver, and soak in the desert sun. This is a destination for the adventurous! It is a highlight on this Oregon road trip itinerary and is a stop you won’t soon forget! Read my post Exploring Alvord Desert and Hot Springs in Oregon for more tips on planning your adventure here.

The easiest way to navigate to the Alvord Desert is using the Alvord Desert Hot Springs address and then going into the desert from there.

Alvord Desert Hot Springs
36095 E Steens Rd
Princeton, OR 97721

*Optional Add-On: A day spent exploring Steens Mountain. There are beautiful hikes and viewpoints at Steens Mountain which borders the Alvord Desert. If the weather is good, consider spending the day exploring the scenic Steens Mountain Loop Road. However, as with the Alvord Desert, prepare for driving on unpaved gravel roads with rugged terrain and little cell service.

Oregon’s Painted Hills

Oregon’s Painted Hills is just another in this state’s selection of unique destinations. These brightly colored hills located in the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument are the result of ancient volcanic activity. You’ll journey past rolling farmlands and suddenly find yourself surrounded by hills painted in bright reds and yellows. They really are an unusual find amongst the ranches and green pastures. This Oregon road trip stop surprised me as I never realized Oregon had so many fascinating natural features. I was left with a greater appreciation for this beautiful state. Read Visiting Oregon’s Unique Painted Hills for more information on how to get there.

John Day Fossil Beds National Monument- Painted Hills Unit
37375 Bear Creek Rd
Mitchell, OR 97750

Smith Rock State Park

You will love the rugged beauty of Smith Rock State Park. It’s craggy rock cliffs, sweeping vistas, and beautiful river walks winding through the park. If you’re into rock climbing, hiking, or mountain biking, this is the park for you! Smith Rock State Park was a favorite stop of mine along this Oregon road trip. We only spent a few hours here, but I could have spent days photographing its beauty and exploring all the trails. Read more about our hike at Smith Rock State Park: Misery Ridge Loop Trail.

Smith Rock State Park
Terrebone, Oregon 97760

Crater Lake

My hubby and I did not stop at Crater Lake on this latest Oregon road trip due to our time constraints. However, if you’ve got a week to make this road trip and you’ve never visited, then I recommend you include it in your route.

Just a word of warning before you go, the journey to Crater Lake is not for the faint of heart. You drive up the mountain with nail-biting drop-offs. Keep your eyes on the road, and soon you’re rewarded with gorgeous views of this volcanic lake. It is such a unique natural setting that everyone should see it at least once. I visited years ago on another road trip with a friend, and its gorgeous blue waters are a beautiful sight to behold.

Read the Department of Interior’s blog on 12 Things You Didn’t Know About Crater Lake for further inspiration. You can also visit the Crater Lake National Park website for information on road conditions, where to stay, and what’s open.

Crater Lake Observation Station
Rim Drive
Crater Lake, OR 97604

In-N-Out Burger

If you’re from California, you might not understand why an In-N-Out Burger is highlighted as a stop along this Oregon road trip. However, if you’re a Washingtonian like me, who loves In-N-Out, you’ll get it. There are no In-N-Out Burgers in Washington State and it was only recently that we had the option in our neighbor state of Oregon. So, I knew that no road trip to Oregon would be complete without including at least one stop at In-N-Out! If you’ve never had In-N-Out then you’re missing out!

I love their cheeseburger with a strawberry milkshake. Sometimes I ask for it animal style which means they give me a yummy grilled onion relish in place of the raw onion on the regular cheeseburger. One of the things I love about In-N-Out Burger is their consistency. I know no matter which location I stop at I will get a consistently good burger at consistently low prices. Just trust me on this, and give them a try. I’m starting to salivate just thinking about them, so I’d best move on.

This is the address for the location we stopped at on this road trip.

In-N-Out Burger
6280 Keizer Station Blvd
Keizer, OR 97303

Final Thoughts & Tips

Download an offline map of Oregon before your road trip. Since a lot of this road trip passes through Oregon’s remote areas, there is little to no cell service near many of these destinations. Having an offline map is a huge help, especially when navigating places like the Alvord Desert. Also, a printed road atlas is never a bad idea either, but at a minimum, have the offline map.

Pack road trip essentials like extra water, road tunes, snacks, a good spare tire, jumper cables, an emergency kit, and a portable charger for electronic devices. Also, make sure to keep your car fueled up as gas can be few and far between in some of these areas. The Alvord Desert is the most remote of the destinations, so make sure to read my guide for visiting there and my tips for preparing for the trip. You may also want to read AAA’s guide to road trip car maintenance to make sure your car is ready for your trip.

Places to Stay
We camped at Alvord Desert, and then stayed in a hotel in Princeton for our visit to Oregon’s Painted Hills, and also stayed in a hotel in Redmond, Oregon for our visit to Smith Rock State Park. There are two campgrounds at Crater Lake National Park open only in the summer. Check the park’s website ahead of time for the latest information and how to reserve a spot.

Talk to locals if you are unsure about areas that are okay to drive in, or for information about weather conditions, and places to see. Locals know their area and are usually more than happy to share their first-hand knowledge.

This Oregon road trip itinerary really highlights the variety found in this state. Prior to this road trip, most of my visits to Oregon were relegated to the coast, which is beautiful. However, there is so much more to Oregon than just its coastline. I think you will be surprised to discover the natural beauty and unique volcanic features along this Oregon road trip.

Happy Exploring!

February 17, 2021

Exploring Alvord Desert and Hot Springs in Oregon

On a recent road trip to Oregon State, I mapped out a route to explore areas of Oregon I’d never traveled to before. The first destination was the Alvord Desert and Alvord Hot Springs. The drive out to the Alvord Desert felt like I was driving to the middle of nowhere (I guess I kind of was). It was unexpected to discover this playa with its natural hot springs bubbling up in the far southeast corner of Oregon State.

This area of Oregon is remote and rugged. It was beautiful to camp out under the desert sky and see the billions of stars above, to watch the sunrise across the desert landscape, and to pretend I was a rally racer as I zigzagged my way across the desert. It was a unique experience and one I recommend you try for yourself!

About the Alvord Desert

The Alvord Desert is a 12-mile long by 7-mile wide playa. A playa is a dried-up lake bed. So at one time, there used to be an almost 100-mile wide lake here! That’s pretty cool! This dried up desert basin is now covered with cracked earth, and the occasional rain the region gets is moved across the playa by the wind. This creates small pools and also a muddy sticky surface you don’t want to drive across.

Additionally, the Alvord Desert is rich in geothermal resources and has several hot springs surrounding it. The Alvord Hot Springs is the most developed and easiest to access. Also, it’s important to note that not all hot springs are safe for humans. The Alvord Hot Springs is funneled into the soaking pools with a temperature regulator to ensure it never gets too hot.

Getting to the Alvord Desert

You can drive to the Alvord Desert either from the north, coming from Burns and New Princeton via Hwy 76, or coming from Fields when arriving from the south end.

If coming from Hwy 76, you’ll turn onto the Folly Farm Rd/Fields-Denio Road and drive about 40 miles on an unpaved, rough gravel road. Plan to take this portion of the journey slowly as there are a lot of washboard areas along the road. It takes about an hour to get there from the turnoff on Hwy 76.

If coming from the town of Fields, it is about 22 miles on the Fields-Denio Road, about 10 of which is unpaved. This is definitely the easier of the entrances due to having less unpaved road to travel on.

Alvord Desert Access:

The two easiest places to enter the desert floor are either via Frog Springs (there are pit toilets here), or you can pay the Alvord Hot Springs to use their private access road. It was $10/vehicle at the time of my visit. Contact them ahead of time for current costs.

*Please note that the Frog Springs access is probably best suited for an SUV or other high-clearance vehicle. It really depends on how much traffic or rain the area has received. It seemed fine when we went, even for a car, but this isn’t always the case. Check conditions for yourself and then decide based on your vehicle and comfort level.

Alvord Hot Springs: 36095 E Steens Rd, Princeton, OR 97721

Camping Options

Camping in the Alvord Desert Playa

You can camp in the Alvord Desert for free using public access roads such as Frog Springs. However, if you choose to access the desert via the Alvord Hot Springs property, you pay a fee to use their access road. Camping in the desert is still free, but you pay them to use their road.

Frog Springs has pit toilets and a desert map with other information on rules and restrictions in the Alvord Desert Playa. If you’re in a car and are concerned about low-clearance levels when driving, you may want to pay the access fee and use the Alvord Hot Springs road instead. The Frog Springs road can get a little rougher for entry.

If camping in the Alvord Desert, “pack it in, pack it out” is the motto of the desert. Leave it the way you found it. Make sure to bury human waste in a small hole 6-8 inches deep and at least 200 feet from the water. That is the policy according to the Bureau of Land Management.

tent in desert at sunset — The ground is white from the mineral deposits due to geothermal activity.

Camping Tips for the Alvord Desert:

Camp toward the outer perimeter, be aware during the day of where you park too. You don’t want someone speeding across the desert to hit you. Due to the dust kicked up when driving, it can obscure visibility, and that, combined with the highspeed of those racing in the desert, can make it hard to see. We parked off to the side away from the areas we could clearly see people racing.

If you know it’s going to rain, I recommend forgoing camping in the Alvord Desert. Since the playa is flat, water can move from one side of the desert to the other very quickly. I read reports of people who went to sleep on dry ground, and in the night, the winds blew water from the opposite side of the desert to their campsite, and they woke up to find themselves stuck in the mud. Be aware of weather conditions.

It also gets very windy in the Alvord Desert, and there is very little to shield you from the wind. You may want to position your tent next to your car and use it as a shield from the wind if possible.

sleeping in car sunrise in the desert — You can also plan to sleep in your car if it’s too windy or cold.

Camping at Alvord Hot Springs

If you pay to camp at the Alvord Hot Springs, you can access the desert via their road at no extra cost. You also have unlimited access to the hot springs for the duration of your stay. Additionally, they have garbage and recycling options as well as a heated restroom. There is no potable water or showers, though. They do sell some supplies in the reservations office during business hours.

Campsites:

There is a gravel parking lot on your left after you drive through the Alvord Hot Springs entrance. You can park here and camp in your vehicle or pitch a tent directly in front of the rocky parking area in the dirt. However, they also have numbered campsites you can find on a road that goes past the office building.

These are the best choice for tent camping and trailer camping as it feels less like a parking lot and more like actually camping in the desert. Book these ahead of time, as they fill up, and then you’re left with the parking lot option. At the time of our visit, it was $20 for a one-person campsite and $40 for 2-8 people.

Bunkhouses:

Besides campsites, Alvord Hot Springs also offers bunkhouses with beds to rent on a nightly basis. Bring your own linens and pillows as these are not provided. Think of it as camping, but without the tent and you get a bed too. You still need to provide everything else.

Visiting the Alvord Hot Springs

Whether you choose to camp at the Alvord Hot Springs campground or not, consider visiting the hot springs for a warm soak in a rustic but beautiful setting. Since we camped at Alvord Hot Springs, we had access to the hot springs for a full 24 hours. We chose to visit the hot springs in the morning before our trek into the desert, and it was a beautiful time of the day for a soak. We also had the hot springs to ourselves, which made it feel more remote and special.

There are no showers at the Alvord Hot Springs, so keep that in mind when planning your trip. There is a restroom by the reservation office, and there is a small changing area on the backside of the hot springs where you can hang your towels. This is not a luxury spa. It is very bare-bones. Rustic. However, it is a unique experience that I felt added to our day spent in the desert.

Also, it’s important to note, towels are not provided, and clothing is optional. So, if you are visiting the hot springs with your family, you may want to check at the hot springs first to make sure it’s empty or that people are wearing clothing.

During my visit, it seemed easy enough to use the hot springs when others weren’t around. The evening was the busiest time as visitors who paid only for road access, and hot springs access came in off the desert for a soak and then left again later that night.

Spending the Day in the Alvord Desert Playa

After our soak in the hot springs, we packed up our stuff and headed down the access road to the Alvord Desert. We spoke with the woman in the office before leaving, who advised us to drive straight a way out before turning to the left or right as there is an area mainly to the left when facing the desert that is a runoff for the hot springs and your car can easily become stuck.

Quick side note: You’ll get an access code when you pay at the reservation office to open a lock on the chain blocking access to the private desert road.

We made sure to drive only where the ground appeared dry and where there were clear signs that others had driven there as well.

You do not want to get stuck in the desert. I read of people doing that, and it sounds like an awful experience. It is expensive to get a tow in this remote area, and you don’t have many options. So play it safe, don’t drive where it’s muddy, and stick to the areas toward the inner part of the desert rather than the outer corners.

Things to Do in the Alvord Desert

Race Across the Desert

This is why many people come here. It’s an open area that is ideal for racing. Landspeed records have been made here. However, I don’t recommend you come here and drive as fast as you can. It is dangerous, and people have died in the Alvord Desert from racing accidents.

You don’t really have to drive that fast for it to feel fast. I was cruising across at 35 mph, and it felt way faster! It’s a strange experience to have no frame of reference, no lines, and no road. It feels a little unsettling and also oddly fun.

cloud of smoke from desert racer — The dust cloud from a distant car racing across the desert.

Fly Drones

This is a great area where you can safely fly your drone. If you want to practice with your drone in an area with no power lines or buildings, or obstructions, you’ve come to the right place. Obviously, maintaining the same safety, you would flying a drone anywhere else. Don’t fly over crowds, don’t fly higher than the FAA guidelines, always keep it within line of sight, and so on.

Camp

As mentioned above, camping in the desert is a fun experience. You have incredible stargazing at night as well as the unique experience of camping in an open playa.

Remote Control Toys

Another fun thing to bring with you is remote-controlled vehicles. If you have kids, they will enjoy racing these without any obstructions.

Bicycling

Yep, I know it seems strange, but people actually come here and cycle in the desert. I’m not sure I want to do it, but others seem to enjoy it.

sunrise Alvord Desert — Sunrise over the Alvord Desert.

Watch the Sunrise

This was probably my favorite experience, to watch the sunrise over the desert. Well, sunsets are pretty gorgeous here too, but I guess there’s something about seeing the sun as it rises and covers the playa floor with color. The crisp morning air and a cup of fresh coffee combined with the sunrise is a pretty perfect way to start the day!

Watch Kite Boarding and Kite Buggies

One of the unique things I saw here were people on kite buggies. They’re little go-karts attached to a sail, which the rider controls to harness the wind and propel them across the desert. Land sailing and kiteboarding are similar activities people also enjoy here. If you have the opportunity to try it, you should.

Stargazing

Bring a telescope or binoculars for stargazing. Even if you don’t have these tools, you’ll still enjoy outstanding views of the stars. The Alvord Desert has very low light pollution, so the stars seem to jump out everywhere as far as you can see.

Where Can you Drive

There are some areas of the Alvord Desert that are privately owned. I worried about going where we weren’t supposed to, but it wasn’t an issue for us. We had plenty of room to explore and never came across an area that seemed off-limits. When I asked the woman at the Alvord Hot Springs reservation office, she indicated I didn’t need to worry about it, that their family-owned most of the land not managed by the government.

Most of the private land is in the western section of the desert, so if you’re concerned about driving into the private land areas, try to stay on the east side of the desert. You can read more on BLM’s website as well as see their maps for the boundaries. However, I wouldn’t overthink it too much. You can clearly see where other people are congregating and driving.

Tips for Enjoying Your Visit

Food

Make sure to stop at The Fields Station for an amazing milkshake, and if you’re hungry, they serve up some pretty great burgers and breakfast too! They are the closest gas station and convenience store to the Alvord Desert. It takes about 30 minutes to drive from the Alvord Desert to the Fields Station.

Bring food, plenty of water, and a camping stove if you plan to camp. Bring your usual camping gear and supplies, and if you need anything extra, make sure to stop in Burns or Fields first.

Fuel

Make sure you fuel up before you make the last stretch out. For most travelers, this probably means fueling up in Burns. Other than the Fields Station, there are no other gas stations close by, and the station in Fields closes early.

The Fields Station near the Alvord Desert — Stop at the Fields Station for a delicious milkshake! I had one for breakfast!

Check Tires

The gravel road leading to the Alvord Desert is rough with a lot of washboard areas. It was a really rough ride coming from the North off Hwy 78. Make sure your tires are in good condition and properly aired up. Take it slow and watch out for traffic.

Finding Your Way

Drop a pin on Google Maps for whichever access road you use so you can point your car in that direction when returning from a day spent driving in the desert. The desert is wide open and can be a little disorienting, so having a pin to help point you in the direction you need to go to leave can be useful.

The cell service is intermittent in this remote part of Oregon, so download an offline map of Oregon before your road trip to the Alvord Desert.

Weather

Make sure to check the weather ahead of time. Do not camp in the playa if it is raining, or even if it has recently rained before your arrival. You don’t want to risk getting stuck in the mud! Also, make sure to pack warm layers for the evenings and sleeping at night as it is cold in the desert at night and in the morning. It is also very windy at times, and other than during the day when it was sunny, I was thankful to have warm layers for walking around. The best time of year to visit is from May to October during the dryer and warmer months.

What to Pack

Bring a swimsuit and towel if you plan to visit the Alvord Hot Springs. You’ll also want sunglasses, sunscreen, and lots of water! As mentioned above, you’ll need to bring y our own food, although, if you get a chance either on the way to the desert or on your way home, make sure to stop in at The Fields Station for a milkshake and some food!

Final Thoughts On Visiting the Alvord Desert

Unless you’re coming with a group and bringing cars for racing, or motorcycles, etc., I don’t think you’ll necessarily want to spend more than a day here. I began to get a little bored after a while. We drove in the desert, we flew the drone, we sunbathed for a while, and then it felt like we’d pretty much done the desert thing. I guess it really depends on what you’re planning to do while you’re here.

Visiting the Alvord Desert was truly an interesting experience and one I recommend. However, it is a bit of a journey getting here, so plan ahead, make sure to bring good road trip music, and plan to play a few road trip games to pass the time getting there.

Category: Destinations

About Valley of Fire State Park

Valley of Fire History

Park Fees

Hours of Operation

Park Amenities

Camping

Wi-Fi

Picnic Areas

Best Time of the Year to Visit Valley of Fire

Getting to Valley of Fire State Park

Things to See During Your Visit

Suggested One-Day Itinerary to Valley of Fire State Park

Arriving at Valley of Fire State Park

Beehives

Valley of Fire Visitor Center

The Fire Wave – 1.5 miles roundtrip

White Domes – 1.25-mile loop

Picnic Stop

Elephant Rock

Atlatl Rock

With Extra Time

An optional 10-min stop on the way to the Fire Wave: The Pastel Canyon

Getting Here

When to Visit Sunrise

Things to Do at Sunrise

Hiking

Watch the Sunrise

Look for Wildflowers

Look for Wildlife

Visit the Sunrise Day Lodge

Enjoy Having a Picnic With a View

Camping Near Sunrise

Other Hikes Near Sunrise

Mount Rainier Webcams

Getting Here: Which Mt Rainier Entrance to Use

Two Ways to Access the Dege Peak Trailhead

Sunrise Point

Sunrise Lodge and Visitor Center

About Dege Peak Trail – Starting from Sunrise Lodge

How to Pronounce Dege

What to Bring on the Hike

Hiking to Dege Peak

Sourdough Ridge Nature Trail

Wildlife Viewing Opportunities

Sunset Point Trail Junction

Dege Peak Summit

Final Thoughts About Hiking to Dege Peak

Other Mount Rainier Area Articles

My Pick for Watching the Sunrise at Bryce Canyon

Why Choose Inspiration Point?

Getting to Inspiration Point

Tips for Photographing the Sunrise at Inspiration Point

What to bring?

What to expect?

Photography Tips

More Great Options for Watching the Sunrise at Bryce Canyon

What to do After Watching the Sunrise

About the Hike

What to Bring

Important Information:

Bryce Canyon Parking & Trail Map

Hiking the Navajo Loop & Peekaboo Loop Trails

The Navajo Loop Trailhead

A Fork in the Road: Queen’s Garden & Peekaboo Trail

Peekaboo Loop Trail

Nature’s Doorways

A Tricky Washout

The Wall of Windows

Bryce Point Trailhead – The Halfway Point

Trail Restrooms

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Alternative Hiking Options

Sunrise Recommendation

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Directions:

*I used Google Maps to navigate to the Willis Creek Slot Canyon trailhead and had no issues. However, I read reports online of others who had issues with Google Maps telling them to turn down private roads. Perhaps Google fixed that issue?

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