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Category: Portugal

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  • Peneda-Geres National Park: A Day Trip From Porto

    Peneda-Geres National Park is Portugal’s only National Park, and it is well worth visiting! Go for a hike, breathe in the fresh air, admire one or more of the many waterfalls within the park, and maybe even see a goat or two along the way! In as little as 1.5 hours, you can drive from Porto to Peneda-Geres National Park and escape the hustle and bustle of the city for a break in nature.

    This article is all about how to take a one-day self-driving road trip from Porto to Peneda-Gerês National Park. I share the itinerary I used and some tips and information for planning your trip, setting expectations, and what to do if you have more time. 

    Planning Your Day Trip to Peneda-Geres National Park

    First, accept that you cannot see it all.  

    With only one day to drive from Porto to Peneda-Geres National Park and make the return back to Porto, you will need to decide what’s important for you to see. Research the hikes, waterfalls, and stops you’re most interested in, and pick one or two. Then, enjoy the drive.

    Plan for extra time between stops.

    As with most national parks, whether in the U.S. or abroad, the roads inside the park are typically narrower and have much slower speed limits than outside the park. Although the distance between stops may not be very far, you need to plan for it to take longer than you expect, especially if it is busier during your visit.

    Points of Interest Inside Peneda-Geres National Park

    We thoroughly enjoyed our day trip, and I know you will too if you decide to follow it. However, I also want to provide some additional options for things to see and do to help you tailor your trip according to your interests. 

    Waterfalls

    There are so many waterfalls inside this park, so here are just a few to consider seeing.

    • Cela Cavalos
    • Cascata do Arado
    • Lagoa do Poco Negro
    • Poco Azul
    • Fecha das Barjas (Tahiti waterfalls)
    • Portela do Homem 

    Hiking

    With over 300 trails in Peneda-Geres National Park, there are too many to list. However, I will list a few links to get you started in your research. 

    • Poço Azul Loop Starting at Cascata do Arado (~5.5 miles, moderate)
    • Miradouro da Pedra e Cascada de Rajada (easy ~2 mile hike starts near the town of Ermida and takes you to a waterfall)
    • Giera Romana (Walking Trail for the old Roman Road) You can walk the old Roman Road from Braga, but I doubt you’ll have time for that. Instead, I suggest hiking a portion from Campo do Geres to Portela do Homem. You could also park on the Spanish side near Portela do Homem and walk a short part of the trail there.
    • Ponte da Misarela (0.5 miles, easy hike to a historic bridge and waterfall)
    • Calcedónia Fault (A Fenda da Calcedónia 5.5 miles, a strenuous hike requiring some rock scrambles and bouldering.) You can also hike a 4.1-mile portion that skips the Calcedonia Fault and rock climbing portion. This is still considered a challenging hike. 

    If you’d like to research more trail options or if you have one or two nights to spend inside the park and want a longer hike, this list from All Trails is a good starting point.

    Camping

    You have a lot of great options for camping around Peneda-Geres National Park. Many of these include cabins and hot showers.

    Picturesque Towns to Explore

    There are so many unique towns surrounding Peneda-Geres National Park. Here are a few to consider exploring in combination with your day. These would also be great options for spending a night or two close to the park.
    • Ermida
    • Lindoso
    • Soajo
    • Sistelo
    • Rio Caldo
    Below, I discuss the route we took, our hikes, and the viewpoints we stopped at during our day trip from Porto to Peneda-Geres. You are welcome to follow the route we took using the below map or create a unique itinerary using some of the above-listed points of interest.

    Our Road Trip from Porto to Peneda-Geres National Park

    Porto to Peneda-Geres National Park Portugal

    We spent five nights in Porto during our two-week road trip in Portugal. We took two days to take day trips outside Porto. One was a day trip to see the Douro Valley, and the other was a day trip to Peneda-Gerês National Park. You can read more about additional day trip options and planning a road trip in Portugal in this article.

    We left Porto early in the morning while it was dark out and most of the city was still asleep. I enjoy seeing a city early in the morning. You catch the bakery getting their deliveries, you see the early morning commuter waiting at the bus stop, and you notice things you wouldn’t when the lights are on, and everyone is hustling and bustling around. Plus, it’s much easier to drive in the city with almost no traffic!

    We drove to Braga for our first stop along this day trip from Porto. I wanted to see Bom Jesus do Monte during my visit to Portugal, and since it was on the way to Peneda-Geres National Park, we decided to make a quick stop there first. It was well worth the time!

    Side Trip to Braga’s Bom Jesus do Monte

    Braga Bom Jesus do Monte

     Braga’s Bom Jesus do Monte is a beautiful sight to see early in the morning. There were hardly any other visitors except the ambitious morning runners using its many stairs for their morning workout. The church is open to look inside, and the manicured flowerbeds and landscape surrounding the church are also quite stunning. It is beautiful and worth the quick stop even if you don’t have time to explore the city of Braga.

    We worked up quite an appetite after watching the joggers climb the stairs at Bom Jesus do Monte, so we went into Braga to grab a quick breakfast before continuing to Peneda-Gerês National Park. 

    Covide, Portugal: Our Entrypoint to Peneda-Gerês National Park

    town of Covide Portugal

    Our route took us through the town of Covide, we found this ironically amusing, and I took this photo as we left the city limits shortly before you entered the Peneda-Gerês National Park park boundary. 

    A little further up the road, we came across a goat herder. Little did we know, but we would reencounter his goats just a bit further into our drive inside the national park. I love goats! They are some of the funniest creatures! I joke with my husband that someday we will have a farm, raise goats, and make goat cheese. It’s unlikely to happen but fun to consider. I do love goat cheese…

    Covide is also the starting point for the very popular Calcedónia Trail in Peneda-Geres National Park. 

    Entering Peneda-Gerês National Park

    driving in Peneda-Geres National Park

    Soon after entering Peneda-Gerês National Park, the road begins to climb upward and narrows into a narrow road with possibly enough space for two small cars to pass. Thankfully, we did not see any vehicles along this section.

    It is a beautiful drive as the road climbs above the town of Covide below, and we begin to see expansive views of large rocky formations, trees, shrubs, and even lakes below. I breathe in the fresh air and smile. It is nice to be in nature. I love the city, but I also love and need these breaks in nature to replenish my spirit.

    It felt as though we had the entire Peneda-Gerês National Park to ourselves! Well, besides the Cachena cows we saw hiding in the grass with their long horns peering out at us. The Cachena cows were initially bred not only for their milk and meat but also as draft animals. Today, they are sold primarily for their meat and the milk is used for making delicious cheese.

    Cachena cow in Peneda-Geres National Park Portugal

    The Ancient Roman Road near Campo do Geres

    Shortly before you arrive at the junction for Campo do Geres and the National Park junction with M533, you’ll pass Marco Miliário de Covide e Campo. This is a historical mile marker from the ancient Roman Road.

    Miradouro Voltas de São Bento

    There are many miradouras (viewpoints) within Peneda-Geres National Park.  These are great opportunities to get out, take in some fresh air and stretch your legs while enjoying the view.  The first one we stopped at was Miradouro Voltas de São Bento. You’ll enjoy views of the Cávado River below as well as rocky outcroppings scattered around. 

    Mirante Velho Viewpoint

    Just a short drive up the road from the São Bento Viewpoint, you come to Mirante Velho Viewpoint or Mirante Velho Miradouro in Portuguese. This one gives you a slightly higher view of the Cávado River and the surrounding area. It also had some neat rock formations that reminded me of rocks I saw in Joshua Tree National Park. There is also a picnic area here, and when we visited, they were replacing the picnic tables and restoring the area around this viewpoint.

    Gerês

    Gerês is an excellent place to stop and eat if you didn’t bring a picnic lunch. It is the last stop for food along this route. Gerês is also where the thermal spa is if you need a therapeutic soak. The road climbs steadily after leaving the town with sharp hairpin corners and poor visibility on such a narrow road. It reminded me of the Road to Hana in Maui, Hawaii.  I commented that it would give the Road to Hana a run for its money with the sharp curves and s-turns.

    Next Stop: Miradouro Novo da Pedra Bela

    Miradouro Novo da Pedra Bela or the New Beautiful Stone viewpoint has a beautiful vantage point high above the valley below. There is also a lovely picnic area here, so if you packed a lunch, this would make a great place to get that out and enjoy this beautiful viewpoint. There was plenty of parking when we visited. We stopped at a small pullout about a 1-minute walk from the picnic area only to realize that we could have driven to the end and parked.  

    Once you walk past the picnic area, you’ll see a sign for the viewpoint and, to the right, a small path leading up some rocky stairs. Follow this path as it leads you up and throw a somewhat narrow gap between two rocks before popping out on an open viewing platform made of stone. The stone slab is also a nice picnic area if it isn’t too crowded.

    We took a quick snack break before returning to our car and driving to the Arado waterfalls trailhead.

    First Hike: Cascata do Arado

    It’s about a 10-minute drive to Cascata do Arado (Arado waterfalls) from the New Beautiful Stone viewpoint. You first come to the parking area for the Rocas viewpoint. You can park here and walk down the dirt road to the trailhead for Cascata do Arado, or you can do what we did and continue driving after the pavement turns into a dirt road. 

    The dirt road was in pretty good condition when we visited, with just a few potholes here and there to drive around. Our car made it without any issues, and we saw many other cars driving down the road. There are quite a few pullouts for parking along the dirt road and parking across from the trailhead. If you decide to park in the parking area for the Rocas Viewpoint, it probably adds 15-minutes each way to your walking time.

    The hike to the Arado waterfalls is short and easy. There is an initial climb up a series of rocky stairs before the path turns to loose rocks and dirt, and within 10-minutes of walking, you reach the viewing area for the waterfalls.  Hikers wanting to see the falls from below hiked up the riverbed instead of taking the trail to the upper overlook. We were here in late fall, so the water level was pretty low. I don’t know whether it is possible at other times of the year, so take the necessary precautions and be safe!

    Arado Waterfalls in Peneda-Geres National Park

    Hiking to Rocas Viewpoint

    After hiking to Cascata do Arado, we walked back to our car and returned to the parking area for the Rocas viewpoint. Miradouro das Rocas is a short hike, but I enjoyed climbing this rocky formation. I had fun ducking and climbing as the trail engineers did their best to create a path around the rock.

    At the top, you have 360-degree views of Peneda-Geres National Park from over 2,600 feet in elevation. It was a lovely way to end our visit here. I did not properly plan our day trip and forgot to pack a lunch, so the snack bar we ate earlier was wearing off, and we were ready to head back to Porto and get some dinner. Had I packed a lunch, we would have done one of the other hikes in this same area as there were multiple hiking trails all centered around this one parking area.  

    We took a slightly different route back to Porto, passing through Rio Caldo and the Geres Water Park. You can rent boats here, swim, and sunbathe. It makes a good base point for families wanting to spend a night or two in the area. 

    Tips & Final Thoughts

    Drive slowly! This road does not allow for fast driving, so although the mileage may not seem much for a day trip, remember you’re driving on narrow roads, plus making multiple stops for photos and possibly a picnic.

    We visited in October, and it was still sunny and warm. We wore shorts, t-shirts, and tennis shoes and brought light jackets for the morning, but they were not needed by afternoon. 

    Make sure to fuel up in Braga or a town outside the park. Bring extra water, snacks, sandwiches, and food for the afternoon. A hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen are good ideas too.

    What Would I Do With a Second Day?

    • Spend a night in one of the villages, such as Sistelo, Soajo, or Ermida.
    • Walk along the old Roman Road walking trail.
    • Explore a little of the Spanish side of the park.
    • Visit the Cela Cavalos and Poço Negro waterfalls.

    With only one day, though, you have to accept that you can’t see it all. It’s like a sampler plate, you take a small bite, and then you know what you like so you can return and explore more of that area. 

    Additional Articles You May Enjoy

    Tips for Planning a Two Week Road Trip in Portugal

    5 Tips for Renting a Car & Driving in Portugal

    Douro Valley Day Trip: A Self-Driving Tour Porto to Pinhão

    Quinta do Bomfim: The Perfect Douro Valley Winery Tour

    Happy Exploring!

    Peneda-Geres National park day trip from Porto Travelffeine
    Peneda-Geres National park day trip from Porto

  • Douro Valley Day Trip: A Self-Driving Tour Porto to Pinhão

    Driving from Porto to Pinhão in the Douro Valley was one of my favorite day trips during our two-week road trip in Portugal.  The Douro River Valley is a gorgeous region in Portugal with terraced landscapes reminiscent of the rice fields in certain parts of Asia. With only a few days in Porto, we knew we only had time for a day trip to the Douro Valley. I read that Pinhão was one of the prettiest towns along the Douro River, so we made that our destination and turn-around point.

    I booked a tour ahead of time with Quinta da Bomfim in Pinhão.  Many vineyards in the Douro Valley allow drop-ins. However, since the changes brought on by COVID, most were not accepting walk-ups during my visit there. So, to be on the safe side, I recommend reserving a tour in advance.  Then, you can always stop at various vineyards if they allow drop-ins, but at least you’ll have one “for sure” visit planned.

    If you only have one day to visit the Douro Valley, this self-driving tour from Porto to Pinhão will give you a complete picture of this beautiful part of Portugal. You’ll take in stunning views, learn about the region’s history, take a tour, and eat an incredible meal. If you’re looking for a great day trip from Porto, put this one at the top of the list!

    Tip: Before heading to the Douro Valley make sure to make any necessary reservations for winery tours and dining in advance.

    Table of Contents

    About the Douro Valley

    The Douro Valley is one of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site famous for its vineyards and production of port and wine. Originally, flat-bottom boats called rabelos took the wine down the Douro River to the Gaia district across from Porto. 

    Now the wine is transported via trucks, but you can see these traditional rabelos in Porto and Gaia. You can even take a rabelos boat tour to experience this traditional mode of transport.

    Douro River rabelos traditional boat

    Options for Visiting the Douro Valley

    There are three main options for visiting the Douro Valley from Porto, Portugal. You can rent a car and drive there, book a tour from Porto, or take the train. 

    Driving from Porto to the Douro Valley: This is my choice for the ideal way to visit the Douro Valley. Depending on traffic, Porto to Pinhão is about a 1.5 hour to 2-hour drive. You can plan to stay a couple of nights and explore the region, or for those with limited time, you can easily take a one-day self-driving tour from Porto to the Douro Valley.  

    Take the Scenic Train from Porto: You can also take a train from Porto to Pinhão. The train ride takes about 2 hours and 17 minutes. You won’t, of course, be able to take any side roads or stop for photos, but you can enjoy the beautiful scenery from your seat on the train. Additionally, the train goes as far as Pocinho with multiple stops along the way, making it possible to plan a multi-night stay in the Douro Valley along the train’s route.

    Book a Tour: There are many tour options available for those wanting to take a guided trip to the Douro Valley.  You can take boat trips up the Douro River, take an all-day or multi-day driving tour, and there are even combo tours that include visits to wineries as well as a short cruise on the Douro River.  I cannot list all the options for tours here, but if that’s up your alley, you’ll have no lack of options from which to choose.

    What to Expect on this One Day Self-Driving Tour

    • You’ll see the beautiful Douro Valley River and Landscape.
    • Visit a Douro Valley winery and take a wine tasting or vineyard walking tour.
    • Eat at an incredible restaurant with views of the Douro River.
    • Go home happy and full of unforgettable memories.

    Don’t feel like you won’t get to enjoy the beauty of the region with only one day. Even the fast route, which we took, provided many stunning viewpoints and vistas to stop at and enjoy. Even though we only visited one Douro Valley winery, it still gave us a perfect taste for the region’s beauty and history. It had everything we wanted all wrapped up in one day full of beautiful memories. 

    Our day trip from Porto to the Douro Valley became one of our favorites from our entire two-week road trip in Portugal. I highly recommend making time for at least one day in this beautiful and unique region.

    Hwy N322-3 in the Douro Valley

    Who This Douro Valley Road Trip is Designed For

    This Douro Valley self-driving tour is best for people who want to experience the region’s beauty and history but aren’t necessarily into sampling a bunch of wine. Meaning if you want a tour that hops from one Douro Valley winery to the next to sample ports and wines, then one of the guided tours might be a better option.

    My husband and I are not wine drinkers, and I had never tried port until I visited Portugal. So our day trip to Pinhão was more about exploring the region and learning about its history.  We drove through the scenic vineyards and along the Douro River, toured a family winery, walked through its vineyards, and ate an incredible meal that was locally sourced. It was a perfect day spent in the Douro Valley.

    Douro vineyard at Quinta do Bomfim
    Walking through the vineyards at Quinta do Bomfim. 

    Non-Alcoholic Drinkers

    If you do not drink wine at all, a trip to the Douro Valley is still worth your time. In addition to winery tours and tastings, Quinta do Bomfim offers self-guided vineyard walks. They provide you with a map, hat, and bottle of water. There is signage throughout the vineyard to guide your walk and inform you of the history. I highly recommend this, as it was beautiful to walk around the vineyard and learn about the history of the rugged landscape that is now so famous for its wines and ports.

    Our Driving Route from Porto to the Douro Valley

    Day trip from Porto to the Douro Valley

    During our two-week road trip in Portugal, my husband and I took one day to drive from Porto to the Douro Valley. I made reservations in advance to tour the Quinta da Bomfim vineyard. Our reservation was for 11:30 a.m. We left early and took the quickest route to Pinhão, which included a scenic drive with viewpoints for photos along the way.

    Click the map to see the stops I marked for miradouros (viewpoints), the winery, our choice for where to dine, and the loop we took from Porto to Pinhão and back.  This drive is an excellent option for a day trip from Porto. 

    The entire route takes around 3.5-4 hours of straight driving (round trip), and with stops, a visit to a vineyard, and lunch/dinner, you won’t make it back to Porto until the evening.  We left the Douro Valley shortly before 5:00 p.m., and my hubby was hoping to miss rush hour traffic, but we still hit some and made it back around 7:00 p.m.

    Highlights Along This Douro Valley Route

    I loved the route we took! After jumping off the A4 by Vila Real, we hopped on the N322. After passing through the town of Sabrosa, the natural beauty of the Douro Valley and the scenic drive began. The fall colors were out during our visit in October, and it was so beautiful!

    N323 Scenic Drive in the Douro Valley
    This photo was taken across from the picnic area off N323 near Sabrosa, Portugal.

    Small Picnic and Parking Area

    There is a little picnic area with parking about 10-minutes outside the town of Sabrosa, where we stopped to take the above photo. It was the first of many stops along this scenic driving route.  N322 becomes N323 along this stretch, and the road sort of goes back and forth between the two, but it’s all the same route.

    Douro Valley Terraced Vineyards
    One of the many viewpoints along this scenic route.

    Miradouros (viewpoints)

    Make sure to pay attention to the brown signs along the road, as these are sightseeing stops. Most of the signs along this road are for the miradouros (viewpoints).  We stopped at quite a few of them, and each one had an informational sign telling us about the area’s history and the family-owned vineyards in the Douro Valley.

    I recommend at least stopping at the following four viewpoints on the way to Pinhão.

    • Aldeia Vinhateira de Provesende
    • São Cristovão
    • Vale do Pinhão
    • Terra de Fernão de Magalhães

    Pinhão

    If possible, give yourself extra time to spend in the town of Pinhão.  There is a walking/biking path that goes along the Douro River that is perfect for a scenic stroll. There are also some hiking trails through the vineyards as well as shopping, and great dining options with views of the Douro River.
    Pinhao and the Douro River
    Driving into the town of Pinhao.

    Quinta Do Bomfim & Casa dos Ecos by Pedro Lemos

    I highly recommend you reserve a tour at the Quinta do Bomfim winery or at a minimum take the self-guided walking tour through their vineyard.  I also can’t recommend enough reserving lunch or dinner at Casa dos Ecos by Pedro Lemos. The food is superb and the view over the vineyards and the Douro River is incredible!  Read more about my visit to the Quinta do Bomfim winery and my dining experience at Casa dos Ecos.

    Quinta do Bomfim
    Quinta do Bomfim winery in Pinhao, Portugal.

    N222

    This is the scenic drive on the opposite side of the Douro River from Pinhão. Make sure to stop at the few viewpoints along this river route to soak it all in. 
    The Douro River along N222.
    The Douro River along N222.

    Régua Dam Lock

    The Régua Dam is a gravity dam and makes for a quick stop along this route. You can watch the tour boats as they enter and exit through this lock on their way up the Douro River.
    The Regua Dam Locks
    The Regua Dam Locks

    Régua Bridges

    The three bridges outside the town of Peso da Régua are beautifully designed. One of them is a pedestrian bridge, and if you have time, I recommend taking a walk across it for stunning views of the river and bridges. It was especially beautiful when we visited in the fall.

    Regua's Bridges
    The three Regua Bridges.

    Douro Museum

    If you want to learn more about the Douro Valley and its wine-making history then give yourself about an hour to tour this small museum. The cost of admission also includes a small port tasting.

    What Would I Do Differently on a Second Visit?

    I would spend at least one night in the Douro Valley.  Although we thoroughly enjoyed our day trip to the Douro Valley, spending a night there would give us more time to relax and enjoy a stroll along the river and perhaps do a little shopping. Plus, for anyone who loves photography, experiencing the Douro Valley at sunrise and sunset will make for some stunning photographs. 

    I would also like to explore more towns along the Douro River and perhaps make a trip further north to the town of Tua. I found this incredibly informative site that gives many options for an in-depth driving route through the Douro Valley for visitors with more time.

    The Douro Valley is such a picturesque area with a slower pace that is a nice change from the city. After staying in Porto, and learning about the cities namesake drink, it felt like a full-circle trip into the region’s history. I highly recommend a visit to the Douro Valley during a trip to Portugal.  If you’ve been, I’d love to hear what stops you made while in the Douro Valley.

    Boa Viagem!

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    Note: Travelffeine is reader-supported. This post contains affiliate links. When you make a purchase using one of these affiliate links, we get paid a small commission at no extra cost to you. And as always, all opinions are our own. Thank you!

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  • Quinta do Bomfim: The Perfect Douro Valley Winery Tour

    There are an overwhelming number of choices for Douro Valley winery tours, and when you only have one day to spend in the Douro Valley, it becomes even harder to decide which one to visit. We chose Quinta do Bomfim for our day trip from Porto to Pinhão, and we couldn’t be happier with our choice!  

    If you’re considering a day trip from Porto to the Douro Valley and want to visit a family-owned vineyard, I highly recommend you consider Quinta do Bomfim. Our one day spent in the Douro Valley was a highlight during our two-week road trip in Portugal, and it was largely due to our visit to Quinta do Bomfim.

    Why We Chose Quinta do Bomfim

    We chose Quinta do Bomfim for a couple of reasons. One, it was in Pinhão, which we read was one of the prettiest towns along the Douro River, so we chose it for our day’s destination. We also chose Quinta do Bomfim based on reviews and its choices for tours. It offers self-walking tours of the vineyard, port, and wine tasting tours and a picnic option on their terrace overlooking the Douro River.  It was easy to book online and communicate with them via email.

    Tour Options:

    Quinta do Bomfim offers four main tour options when visiting their winery.
    1. Guided Winery Tour and Tasting (You get to choose which tasting selection you prefer, port only, or port and wine.)
    2. Guided Tour Only (no tasting)
    3. Picnic on the Terrace (includes a meal, wine, and port)
    4. Vineyard Self-Guided Walking Tour (Includes a hat, map, and bottle of water.)
    Quinta do Bomfim

    Our Quinta do Bomfim Tasting Tour

    The tour starts in the main lobby. You check in at the front desk, where you make your final tasting selection and pay. Since we arrived 30-minutes early, we decided to walk through their vineyards. They gave us a map, and we followed the information signs, which are color-coded according to the length of time the trail route takes.

    The main lobby also has a lot of information regarding the history of Quinta do Bomfim and the Symington Family wineries.  They own several, and you can tour many of their other wineries, too, should the opportunity arise. 

    Our guide, Marta, met us in the main lobby and took us outside to begin the tour. Marta did a great job of giving a complete picture of all that goes into owning a vineyard and getting your ports and wines certified.  She also gave a good overview of the difficulties in growing grapes in this rocky terrain and the limitations of using modern equipment given the terraced landscape.  

    Quinta do Bomfim Main Lobby

    Storage & Processing

    After a short overview of the vineyards, and the certifications involved in running a winery, Marta took us inside the building where they press and store the grapes to prepare them to become wine or port.  It was interesting to learn of the different processes for making both port and wine.  

    Marta also told us how they still adhere to the old traditions of pressing the grapes with their feet.  Due to recent restrictions, they had to revert to using machines only, but they plan to pick up the tradition of stomping grapes once again when it is possible.  

    The Tasting

    After the tour of the wine-making facilities, Marta took us back to the dining area for our tasting. We were in the indoor section, and those who purchased the picnic option sat outside on the terrace overlooking the Douro River. I loved the design of the rooms on the Quinta do Bomfim estate. Many of them had beautiful wood beam ceilings and lots of natural light. It is a lovely space to sit in and soak in the surroundings. 

    It’s also worth noting that they provide the best quality wines and ports for their tastings. I read reviews on other wineries that sounded like some offered lower-quality ports for their tastings.

    It was an informative tour, and a peek behind the scenes into a global industry. At the end of our tour, I had a greater appreciation for the work that goes into making a bottle of wine or port. It is a more in-depth process than I knew, and although I am not really a wine or port drinker, I appreciated the care this family-owned winery took to create a quality product. 

    So, whether you consider yourself an oenophile or not, I think if you’re someone who is curious and loves learning new things, you’ll enjoy this tour. 

    Quinta do Bomfim's wine tasting room looking onto terrace

    Self-Guided Vineyard Walking Tour

    You can take a self-guided walking tour in addition to a tour of the winery or on its own if you prefer to skip the winery or tasting tours. Whatever you decide, spend at least 15-minutes walking one of the shorter paths in the vineyard at Quinta do Bomfim.  They did an excellent job creating a map of trail options in their vineyard. 

    We loved our walk through the vineyard! It was great to go at our own pace, taking photos and soaking it all in. Along the way, they have signs that tell you more about the region’s history.  These were informative, and I was impressed with the organization of their walking paths. I enjoyed learning about the history of the rugged landscape that is now so famous for its wines and ports.

    The vineyard walk combined with the winery tour gave us a complete picture of life on a Douro Valley vineyard. Don’t skip it!

    Eating at Casa dos Ecos by Pedro Lemos

    In addition to your reservations to tour, Quinta do Bomfim, make sure to book reservations for Casa dos Ecos by Pedro Lemos. This incredible restaurant with its Michelin-rated chef sits on a hill above the Quinta do Bomfim winery. You drive up to it via the winery’s private road. 

    Dining at Casa dos Ecos is equally as memorable as touring Quinta do Bomfim. You get an incredible view of the valley below and the Douro River. In addition to 5-star views, you will experience top-notch service and an outstanding meal.

    We enjoyed a meal of oven-baked cheese for our starter and roasted kid and roasted beef rib along with seasonal vegetables cooked outside in a traditional wood stove. For dessert, the perfect ending to our meal was the delicate and fragrant orange cake made with oranges grown on the property.

    This was the best meal we had during our two-week road trip in Portugal. We are still talking about it, and the wonderful day we spent in the Douro Valley. I highly recommend you make reservations to experience it yourself!

    Tips for Visiting Quinta do Bomfim

    As I mentioned, make sure to make reservations in advance. Contact them directly if you have any further questions not answered on their website.

    Give yourself at least two hours to arrive at Quinta do Bomfim when driving from Porto. If you want time to stop and take photos on the way, then I suggest you leave 3-4 hours before your reservation. This gives you plenty of time to stop and enjoy the scenery along the way. 

    Plan to wear or pack comfortable shoes for walking in the vineyard. Also, depending on the time of year, you want to pack extra water bottles for the drive and any hiking you may do. Snacks for the road are always a good idea, as well as sunglasses, hats, and sunscreen. It can get very hot in the Douro Valley during the summer months.  In the fall, when I visited, it was still relatively warm during the day but cool enough in the morning and evening to wear a light sweater or scarf.

    Read about my experience driving to Pinhão for more help when planning your day trip from Porto to the Douro Valley.

    Additional Articles For Planning a Trip to Portugal

    town of Pinhão
    Douro Valley Day trip Porto to Pinhao Road Trip
    Quinta do Bomfim Pinhão Portugal Winery Tour

  • Tips for Planning a Two Week Road Trip in Portugal

    This 2-week road trip in Portugal outlines a route using three base locations from which to take day trips, thus minimizing the need to frequently change accommodations.  You need a rental car, and you will also want to make sure each of your accommodations has parking. Read 5 Tips for Renting a Car and Driving in Portugal to learn more tips for your road trip in Portugal. 

    If you’ve never visited Portugal, it really should be at the top of your list. It is one of the sunniest destinations in Europe, and it has fantastic food, gorgeous scenery, and historic cities. There is something for everyone!

    2-Week Road Trip in Portugal – Map of Destinations

    2 Week Road Trip in Portugal

    Planning a Road Trip in Portugal

    I planned this two-week road trip in Portugal with a minimal amount of accommodation changes. This trip was a vacation with my hubby, who prefers longer stays vs. 1-2 night stays before switching accommodations. It creates a more enjoyable experience when we’re not checking in and out of AirBnbs or hotels every day or two.  

    So with that in mind, I broke up our road trip in Portugal into three sections.  Using this method, I created three main bases from which we could then take day trips.

    Three Base Locations in Portugal

    1. Lisbon
    2. Luz (the Algarve)
    3. Porto

    Using these cities as our base of operations, I created a list of activities, points of interest, and day trips we could take from each of these three locations. I listed all possible day trips I was interested in, knowing that we might not get to all of them. 

    Additionally, I did not list out every possible attraction in each of the day trip locations. You need to research which options you’re most interested in and plan your day trip around those.  You can see the main highlights in a full day or pick out a few favorites if you only want to spend a half day.

    Below I list out the approximate one-way travel times from each city to the listed day trip options. Depending on what sites you want to see in each city will determine whether you’ll want to spend a half-day or a full day at each. Some of the options are close enough to each other you can combine two or more for a full day trip experience.

    Lisbon Day Trips

    • Batalha Monastery (2 hours from Lisbon)
    • Evora (1.5 hours from Lisbon)
    • Nazaré (2 hours from either Lisbon or Porto)
    • Óbidos (Castelo de Óbidos) (1.5 hours from Lisbon)
    • Sintra (1 hour from Lisbon)

    Luz Day Trips

    • Lagos (15 minutes from Praia da Luz)
    • Benagil (35 minutes from Praia da Luz)
    • Carvoeiro (35 minutes from Praia da Luz)
    • Sagres (30 minutes from Praia da Luz)
    • Ria Formosa Nature Park (1 hour from Praia da Luz)

    Porto Day Trips

    • Douro Valley (Pinhão) (2 hours from Porto)
    • Peneda-Geres National Park (2 hours from Porto)
    • Braga (1 hour from Porto)
    • Guemeres (1 hour from Porto) (30 min from Braga)
    • Coimbra (1.5 hours from Porto)
    • Aveiro/Costa Nova (1 hour from Porto)

    Tip: Look for the large brown road signs with drawings on them, these are Portugal’s tourist attraction signs.

    Viewpoint at Sao Jorge Castle Lisbon

    Our Road Trip in Portugal: Final Route & Experience

    We had a connecting flight in London Heathrow before arriving at Lisbon’s Humberto Delgado Airport. I planned ahead and made sure to have all the necessary entry documents and negative-test results.  

    This is all uploaded before departure, but if you can, printing the documents out is helpful at check-in. 

    Travel requirements are constantly changing, so make sure to look at the updated requirements before you travel. This includes requirements for traveling to a new destination and also for returning home.

    Lisbon (3 nights)

    Portugal is 8 hours ahead of Washington’s Pacific Standard Time (PST). So I planned our initial arrival in Portugal to be a relaxing transition to the new time zone. We stayed in Lisbon three nights and enjoyed a leisurely pace of sleeping in, seeing the sights in Belém where our Airbnb was located, and then also spending a day exploring Lisbon on foot.

    Belém

    Jerónimos Monastery in Belém was one of the few places I visited on a previous trip to Lisbon that I knew I wanted to return to with my hubby.  He wanted the trip to include new experiences for both of us, but there were a couple of things I knew he had to see and do.  

    One was visiting the Jerónimos Monastery, and the other was eating pastéis at Pasteis de Belém, then we walked to the Tower of Belém. The Tower of Belém was closed for renovations at the time of our visit, however sitting on the stairs in front and listening to the street musicians play while the waves rolled in made for wonderful travel memories.  Afterward, we visited the Museu Coleção Berardo, a modern art museum close to the Jerónimos Monastery.

    Jeronimos Monastery Belem Lisbon
    Inside the Jerónimos Monastery.

    Alfama

    We took in the views at Castelo de São Jorge, walked around the Alfama neighborhood, and ate gelato pops at Popbar. When you visit this area, make sure to try their passionfruit (maracujá) bar, it is incredible! The woman explained that they make all their gelato and sorbet in-house, and the fruit bars are made of 80% real fruit!  No wonder it tasted like eating a fresh passionfruit–so good! 

    Also, next door is Portugalidades, a store comprised of ceramics, artwork, and other handmade products, all sourced from artisans in Portugal.  If you want real made in Portugal gifts to bring home, this store is a great place to shop!

    I visited Lisbon back in 2018 and took a day trip to Sintra on that trip.  If this is your first to Lisbon, Sintra makes a wonderful day trip option, although I’d only go if the weather is nice as it’s mostly outdoor activities. 

    Speaking of weather, we had beautiful weather our entire visit, and it wasn’t until our last full day in Lisbon that we got some rain.  Thanks to my previous visit to Lisbon, I came prepared with ideas from an earlier article I wrote on How to Spend a Rainy Day in Lisbon.

    Side trip to Sines on road trip in Portugal

    Driving from Lisbon to Luz (The Algarve Region)

    We left Lisbon around 10:00 a.m. and headed for Luz in Portugal’s Algarve region.  Along the way, we decided to jump off the freeway (E1) and take the slightly slower but more scenic route along highway A-26.  

    Side Trip: Sines, Portugal

    Around lunchtime, we stopped in the town of Sines and admired our first views of the Atlantic coastline.  Beautiful teal blue water sparkled in the sun.  

    Sines is a beautiful old town! I would love to return here and spend a night or two strolling its streets and soaking in the ambiance of this laid-back fishing town. It is also the birthplace of Vasco da Gama. You’ll find his statue near the Sines Castle overlooking the sea and the aptly named Vasco da Gama Beach.  The locals we met were so warm and welcoming.  

    The architecture and colors of this town are appealing and picturesque. It felt like a real town as opposed to a tourist destination. It’s worth a short stop on your way from Lisbon to the Algarve. 

    If you’re hungry, I recommend getting a bite at Restaurante Bar Ponto de Encontro. We stopped in here for lunch during our visit, and the owner could not have been friendlier. We sampled Portuguese goat cheese and ate fried choco (cuttlefish) while enjoying views of an ancient castle and a beautiful historic church.

    With stomachs full, we left Sines and continued down the coast. We didn’t make it far before pulling off at a roadside parking area to kick off our shoes and run down the beach.  We walked in the surf and watched surfers and sunbathers enjoying the warm glow of the afternoon sun.  

    Now, with a proper amount of sand attached to our feet, we were once again ready to continue our journey to the town of Praia da Luz.  This is our base while visiting the Algarve region of Portugal.

    Vasco Da Gama Sines Portugal

    Praia da Luz (4 nights)

    We arrived at our Airbnb around 5:30 p.m. We had a self-check-in which allowed us to take as much time as we wanted to arrive. I prefer this type of Airbnb as it is one less thing to worry about when traveling.  

    Our Luz Airbnb was a charming two-story flat with a bedroom and bathroom on the first floor and the kitchen, living area, and balcony on the second floor.  

    As soon as we saw the view from our “lanai” (that’s what we like to call all of our vacation balconies in memory of our times in Maui), we fell in love with the place.  White buildings with red roofs and the Atlantic shimmering in the distance.  It is only a 5-minute walk from our apartment to the beach. What a beautiful base while exploring the Algarve!

    TIP: Know your check-in times and plan your route based on this. If staying at an Airbnb consider choosing self-check-in locations for greater flexibility.

    Luz Airbnb apartment
    The balcony at our Luz Airbnb was perfect for watching the sunrise and sunset.

    Algarve Day Trip: Sagres (The End of the World)

    We visited Sagres the following morning and walked around the Sagres Fortress, admiring the views of the Atlantic below us. Sagres was considered “the end of the world” or the furthest point of exploration in ancient times.  Although we know better now, it is fun looking out across the ocean and seeing only water.

    After leaving the Sagres Fortress, we drove 3 miles to Cape St Vincent, considered the southwesternmost point of Europe. The area around the Cabo de São Vicente Lighthouse includes a couple of small gift shops, restrooms, and a small cafe. 

    Take in the views surrounding the lighthouse and imagine what it must be like on a stormy day with the waves crashing at the base of the lighthouse. It reminded me of our visit to Cape Disappointment and the pictures there of the massive waves that roll in during storm season.

    Soon, we began to feel the full force of the sun and were ready to head someplace cool, so we drove back to Luz, where we had lunch, and then headed for the beach! It was a “refreshing” swim in the Atlantic. After you are completely submerged, it feels pretty good, plus you can lay out in the hot sun, and soon enough, you’re toasty warm again. Now, this is a vacation!

    The pattern of our days in Luz was to spend the mornings exploring other parts of the Algarve and then spend the evenings in Luz.  This filled my need to explore and my hubby’s need for relaxation. When planning a trip with others, it’s always good to create a mixture of activities to suit different travel styles.

    coastline in Sagres Portugal
    The coastline views by the Cabo de São Vicente lighthouse.

    Algarve Day Trip: Lagos & Praia do Camilo

    We stopped in the town of Lagos, as I wanted to see what it was like. Many travelers to the Algarve choose to stay here, and I considered it before opting for our Airbnb in Luz. It is a much larger city with multiple beaches in the area.  Since we hadn’t eaten breakfast, we headed to Coffee and Waves, a small cafe serving locally roasted coffee. It has a surfer vibe, and we enjoyed our delicious avocado toast and peanut butter toast with bananas.

    After breakfast, we strolled through town until we ended up along the water.  It didn’t take long to realize we were out again when the sun was its hottest.  Since our beach gear was back in the car, we made a beeline for the parking garage before heading to Praia do Camilo to get a little beach time and cool off a bit.

    Praia do Camilo is a small beach that connects with another small beach through a tunnel.  You walk down a series of stairs (very common in the Algarve) to reach the first beach and then head left through the tunnel to access the adjoining beach.  We watched kayak tour groups as they explored the arches along the coastline and smiled as we watched the kids having fun digging in the sand.  Is it me, or does everyone seems happier at the beach?

    If you want more to do in the area, drive a little further down the road to Ponta da Piedade to see more beautiful rock formations, caves, arches, and a small lighthouse. Ponta da Piedade is also a popular place to photograph the sunset. 

    stairs leading to Praia do Camilo
    The stairs leading to Praia do Camilo near Lagos, Portugal.

    Algarve Day Trip: Benagil Caves & Carvoeiro

    On our last full day in the Algarve, we rented stand-up paddleboards, and SUP’d to the Benagil Caves.  We had so much fun SUP’ing to the cave. We met a woman who once lived in West Seattle, and I think she was the first American we met on our road trip in Portugal. It’s always fun to meet someone from your home area, and it reminds you how small the world really is. She gave us a few tips for things to see in Porto before she paddled back to Benagil beach.

    After taking some photos and enjoying the beauty of the cave, we paddled back to Benagil beach to return our paddleboards.  The paddleboard rental is good for 90 minutes, which is plenty of time to see the cave and even explore a little of the area around it before returning. 

    Before leaving Benagil, we walked to the far corner of the public parking area to find the trail that leads to a viewing area above the Benagil caves. The hike there was easy, and it provided beautiful views of the coastline and a unique bird’s-eye view looking down into Benagil cave. 

    “Praia” means “beach” in Portuguese, so whenever you see this on a map, you know there is a beach there.

    inside the Benagil Caves
    Inside the Benagil Caves.

    Carvoeiro

    Next, we drove to Carvoeiro to eat lunch and have more beach time. Carvoeiro is another town I considered staying at for our base while in the Algarve.  After visiting here, I want to spend a few days here on a future trip to the Algarve region.  

    We ate tapas at Tapas da Vila, and everything we ate was delicious! You can’t go wrong getting the oven-baked goat cheese with honey and the fried baby squid with garlic. So good! When I originally ordered them, I thought I’d get deep-fried, battered calamari rings like we find in the States. However, I got something far more delicious! I love finding new things I like while traveling. The owner and staff here were friendly and helpful; I highly recommend it!

    After lunch, we walked across the street to Praia de Carvoeiro, where we joined other sunbathers and swimmers for more time in the sun.  After a couple of quick dips in the “refreshing” water and plenty of Vitamin D, we packed up our gear and headed to the nearest gelato stand.  I got the maracuja (passionfruit) because I’m hooked on passionfruit ever since trying it for the first time in Maui last year. I was so excited to discover that the Portuguese also love passionfruit, and soon I was buying maracuja sparkling water, gelato, sorbet pops, and well, anything I could find with “maracuja.”

    Our last day in the Algarve was our favorite, but alas, it was time to move on.

    Portuguese Algarve Style Fried Squid

    Driving from the Algarve Region to Porto

    It takes about 5 hours to drive directly from Luz to Porto.  We had to meet our Airbnb host by 5 p.m., so we didn’t have as much flexibility for our drive, but we left early enough to enjoy at least one stop.  Originally I planned for us to stop in Evora, but instead, we opted to stop in Nazaré on the way to Porto.  

    A road trip in Portugal is not so different from a road trip in the States.  You have the flexibility to hop off the freeway and take the slow and scenic way if you prefer, but when you are on a time constraint, taking the highway in Portugal is a fantastic option! There is almost no traffic, and the speed limit is 120 kph/75mph. It can be a very efficient way to go while on a road trip in Portugal.

    Side Trip: Nazaré, Portugal

    There were no big waves in Nazaré during our visit, but we didn’t expect any. It’s too early in the season for the record-breaking waves, although it would have been so cool to see one!  One thing I didn’t expect was for Nazaré to be so big and crowded. It was possibly the most stressed I’d seen my hubby during our whole road trip in Portugal. The streets were narrow, and there were pedestrians to watch out for everywhere in addition to bumper-to-bumper traffic!

    We ended up driving toward the end of the Praia da Nazaré, where there was ample parking and, thankfully, a great sushi restaurant facing the beach where we could take a break from driving and eat before we both became hangry. If you stop in Nazaré, consider eating at Kabuki Sushi it was delicious!

    Afterward, you can dip your toes in the sand and walk along the pier to Farol Nazaré Pontão Norte for a view of Nazaré, the venicular, and Forte de São Miguel Arcanjo. You get a neat perspective from this side view as you imagine the legendary waves that break against it during the winter months.

    You can easily spend half a day to a full day exploring all the sites of Nazaré, but after our experience, I recommend you don’t visit on a weekend if you can help it.

    sunset in Porto seen from Luis I Bridge

    Porto (5 nights)

    It was almost 6 p.m. by the time we checked in to our Porto AirBnb and after a long day spent in the car we were ready to explore on foot. So we walked to the Luis Bridge and joined hundreds of other pedestrians waiting expectantly for the sun to set. We heard Fado singers and sounds of music and laughter amid the hustle and bustle of the city.  I smiled as I listened to the heartbeat of this city.

    Soon the sun began to dip below the horizon.  The gorgeous oranges turned to deep reds and purples reflecting off the Douro River below.  What a perfect way to spend our first night in Porto.

    For two whole days, we walked around Porto and took in the sights and sounds of the city. We also took a short river cruise and tried our first bites of francesinha. Don’t let its appearance fool you, this is one delicious sandwich! We spent the remaining time taking day trips and enjoying evenings in Porto.

    Porto Day Trip: Peneda-Gerês National Park

    We escaped the busy city and headed toward Portugal’s only National Park, Peneda-Gerês National Park  (often referred to as Gerês). Peneda-Gerês National Park covers almost 270 sq miles and shares a border with a natural reserve in Spain.

    Side Trip: Braga’s Bom Jesus do Monte

    We made one side trip on the way and stopped to see Braga’s Bom Jesus do Monte. It was a beautiful sight to see early in the morning.  Morning runners were using the church staircase as their ultimate stair climbing machine.  Now that’s a workout!  I think this church is worth a quick stop, even if you don’t have time to explore the city of Braga.

    Braga Bom Jesus do Monte
    Standing at the base of Braga’s Bom Jesus do Monte.

    Gerês

    Shortly after entering Peneda-Gerês National Park, we had to stop our car to let a herd of goats pass on their way to graze.  They are so fun to watch!  About 15-minutes up the road from where we saw the goats, we also saw Portugal’s long-horn cachena cows. They are free-range cows allowed to graze within the national park and produce excellent beef and milk.

    The roads are narrow and winding in Peneda-Gerês National Park, and as mentioned, there are animals grazing alongside the road, so take it slow and enjoy the views. It felt like we had the park all to ourselves for most of the day!  Gerês really is a hidden gem in Portugal.

    We hiked to the Arado waterfalls and also to the Miradouro das Rocas. Miradouro means viewpoint, so whenever you see that on a map, it means it’s a viewing area, usually set high above with expansive views of the terrain below.  In this case, it is a rocky viewpoint you climb up to that provides sweeping 360º views of Peneda-Gerês National Park.

    It was nice to spend a day in nature seeing more of Portugal’s beauty.  I try to do at least one day hike whenever I’m traveling. It’s great to see the natural beauty each area of the world offers, plus I find nature to be a great way to recharge.

    Visiting Peneda-Gerês National Park on a road trip in Portugal
    I am so glad we included Peneda-Gerês National Park on our road trip in Portugal.

    Porto Day Trip: The Douro Valley

    Another day trip we took from Porto was a road trip to the Douro Valley.  This day was one of my favorites during our road trip in Portugal.  It was so beautiful to see the terraced vineyards just beginning to show their fall colors.  The terraced landscape rose from the Douro River that wound its way through the valley.

    The drive through the Douro Valley has many miradouros (viewpoints) along the way. Many of these include information boards describing the area’s history and its beginnings.

    We visited Quinta do Bomfim, a family-owned vineyard, and winery in Pinhão. We learned so much about what it took for the early farmers to carve out the terraced landscape and work the rocky land. There is so much more that goes into running a vineyard and making great port and wine than I ever realized!

    We also ate an incredible meal at Casa dos Ecos by Pedro Lemos. The restaurant sits above the Quinta do Bomfim vineyard, and it was one of the best meals we had on our entire road trip in Portugal!

    Driving from Porto to Lisbon

    Two days of day trips and two full days spent in Porto, and now it is time to return to Lisbon for our final visit before flying home. Our road trip in Portugal has come full circle.  Since we can’t check into our Airbnb before 5:00 p.m. and it only takes 3 hours to go from Porto to Lisbon, we decided to take another side trip.

    Side Trip: Aveiro and Costa Nova

    The beachside town of Costa Nova is too cute to pass up! I loved this little town with its colorfully painted houses that face the beach.  Palm trees line the promenade with a walking and cycling path that goes for miles along the waterfront. These houses, which are now primarily used as holiday getaways, were once fishing huts and storage shacks for the fisherman who lived here.  

    Just a short drive away is the town of Aveiro, where you can walk through their salt mine and learn how seawater is collected and salt harvested here each year.  I found it to be an interesting side trip.  The town is also home to the University of Aveiro, and we saw college students out walking about getting lunch and going to class. I want to come back to this town and explore it more on a future trip.

    costa nova side stop on road trip in Portugal

    Lisbon (Final 3 nights)

    We’re back in Lisbon, where we’ll spend our remaining days at an Airbnb in the Graça district of Lisbon. We returned our rental car early since we plan on staying in Lisbon for the remainder of our time. We felt even better about this decision after the taxi ride to our Airbnb. The streets in the Graca area are narrow and crowded, and it would have been a stressful drive had we chosen to keep our rental car.

    We love the rooftop balcony at our Graça Airbnb, and we spend the evening watching the sunset, enjoying good food and good company as we listen to the city and take it all in.

    Graça is one of Lisbon’s oldest suburbs, and it sits high on a hill with many incredible viewpoints for admiring Lisbon below. The following day, we visit the Miradouro da Senhora do Monte, an excellent viewpoint with sweeping views of Lisbon and Castelo de Sao Jorge to the far left (south). 

    We explored Lisbon on foot, walking to Praça Dom Pedro IV, a popular plaza with fountains and restaurants and shops surrounding it, and wandered the streets, popping in and out of shops like this art supply store and just enjoying being out in the world again.

    That’s really what this trip is about for us. It is our first international trip in two years, and we are so grateful we could come. We stop at the Fábrica Coffee Roasters for a light lunch and coffee.  I recommend you stop here if you’re ever in Lisbon.  They have a good selection of coffee, and the staff is incredible!

    Sunset in Lisbon's Graça neighborhood

    Closing Thoughts on a Road Trip in Portugal

    With only two weeks, we didn’t hit all the stops on my “day trips” list. I would love to have walked the ancient walls around Obidos and seen the church made out of bones in Evora, but I’ll save that for another visit and instead focus on all I did get to see. 

    You rarely get to “see it all.” Chances are you’ll want to return to Portugal after your first trip. Plus, did I mention they have a whole group of islands to explore? Yep, the Azores islands look like a tropical paradise; they are next on my list to see when I return to Portugal. As another trip ends, I savor the memories made and look forward to those yet to be created.

    Boa Viagem!

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  • 5 Tips for Renting a Car and Driving in Portugal

    Below are five tips for driving in Portugal that I learned during my two-week road trip there. Renting a car in Portugal is not so different from renting a car in the U.S. However, there are a few things that are helpful to know before starting on your road trip in Portugal.

    Things to Know Before Renting a Car in Portugal

    First, let me go over a few useful things to know before you make your car rental reservation.

    • You need a valid driver’s license to rent a car in Portugal.
    • Almost all rental cars in Portugal have manual transmissions. So make sure you know how to drive a stick shift before renting one.  Larger rental car companies will have a small selection of cars with automatic transmissions, but it will cost a lot more, and you need to reserve one well in advance if you hope to get one. In general, almost all cars in Europe use manual transmissions, and it’s an excellent skill to learn!
    • Portugal has some of the highest rates of car accidents and allegedly some of the worst drivers in Europe. So, as a precaution, you want to get rental insurance. Typically this means getting CDW (collision damage waiver) insurance. You can pay for this directly with the car rental company, or you can check ahead of time with your credit card company to see if they already provide this and what you need to do to use their coverage. Whichever choice you make, it’s good to understand what it covers and what it does not cover.
    • Most car rental companies in Portugal also charge a deposit to your credit card. You need to make sure that you have sufficient credit to cover this additional deposit. If you think this could be a problem for you, call and ask the company in advance for the rental deposit amount so you can make sure to have enough credit to cover it.

    Tip: Reserve the smallest car that will accommodate your needs. Parking spaces are tight and roads are narrower so a smaller car is easier to maneuver when driving in Portugal.

    5 Tips for Renting a Car and Driving In Portugal

    night driving in Portugal

    1) Renting a Car In Portugal

    First off, you want to research a rental car company and determine where you want to pick it up. You can rent at the airport, which we did, and then drive it into the city, or you can take a taxi into the city, and rent a car there.

    Our trip to Portugal had us flying into and out of Lisbon, so we rented our car from Lisbon’s Humberto Delgado Airport.  In hindsight, I may have opted to get a rental in the city instead when we were ready to move on to our next destination.  It was stressful for my husband driving in a new country, in the dark, with a large five-lane roundabout and city traffic, to get to our first Airbnb in Lisbon.  

    Before driving off, you need to walk around your rental car and mark any damage you see. At Avis, we were given the keys to our car on the ground level but then had to walk up one level to find our car.  We walked around the car and took photos of any damage we saw (the rental agent said the images would be our evidence should any dispute arise upon return), and we also wrote it down on the rental envelope they gave us. You do this on your own with no rental agent present.  

    Before the trip, I read many reviews that said to be very thorough in your walk around and note everything. So we were a little paranoid when doing our inspection and probably worried more about small bumps and scratches than necessary. However, better safe than sorry, I guess. In the end, we didn’t have any issues at check-in. The man who checked us in walked around the car once and then gave us our receipt.

    Toll Roads: Deciding How to Pay

    Make sure you understand your options regarding Portugal’s toll roads and how you’ll pay when driving there.

    Option 1

    Most rental companies give you the option of paying to “rent” a Via Verde device which allows you to use all Verde Lanes on any toll road without stopping.  You’ll pay a fee to use this device in addition to any tolls you accumulate during your road trip in Portugal. We rented with Avis and paid $45 for the device, which we later discovered was for the rental of the device AND roadside assistance.  The rental for the device itself was around €16.

    Option 2 

    You can choose not to rent a Via Verde device and instead go into a CTT (Portugal’s post office) every 3-5 days to pay your accrued toll bill. You cannot use the Via Verde lanes with this option. The convenience of using any toll road and all Verde Express Lanes (no stopping) and not needing to find a CTT location every few days makes renting the electronic device worth it, in my opinion.

    Option 3 

    I discovered this option after returning home to the U.S. However, if you plan to make repeated trips to Portugal, or you don’t want to pay the extra fees to the rental car company, this option seems the simplest and cheapest option.  You can rent your own electronic toll device directly with Via Verde.  You pay only for the months you use it, and you can activate it for use on any subsequent trips to Portugal.  This is the option I will choose in the future.

    My recommendation

    I recommend Option 1 or Option 3 (however, as I mentioned, I have not yet tested option 3). You’re on vacation. Do you really want to mess with finding a CTT/post office every few days? I don’t think it’s worth the time or money you’ll spend finding one. 

    With a Via Verde electronic device, you slow down to 60km as you pass through the designated toll lane.  All of the Via Verde passenger lanes we encountered were on the far left side of the toll checkpoint.  

    I am still waiting to receive the toll charges from Avis. It’s been almost a month since we returned, and we still have not been charged for this. I will update this post if I learn anything more or have a bad experience with this.

    2) Research Portuguese Driving Laws

    Read up on road signs, speed limits, and driving laws before your trip.  This will ease some of the stress of driving in a new country if you are somewhat familiar with the basics of their road rules.  

    Driving in Portugal isn’t that different from driving in the States, except for a few things I’ll note below.  Another nice thing we discovered when driving in Portugal was how traffic-free the freeways are.  There is always some congestion surrounding large cities, but otherwise, we often felt like we had the highway to ourselves!

    Speed Limits 

    During my most recent visit, the freeway speeds were 75mph/120kph, although it appeared most traffic went around 140kph. Another critical thing to note is that Portugal highways have speed cameras scattered in different spots, typically near cities. If you use Google, it will make a “ding” noise and alert you about an upcoming traffic camera.

    Driving Laws

    Many of their driving laws are the same as here in the U.S. Such as driving on the right side of the road, wearing your seat belt, only using hands-free mobile devices, and so on.  I’m not going to list all of them as you can research that on your own, but here are a few that stood out to me.

    • Dash cameras are illegal in Portugal, so leave them at home as they violate their privacy laws.
    • It’s illegal to pass on the right.
    • It’s illegal to cross a solid white line and don’t even think about crossing a double one. If you need to make a turn there, don’t do it; instead, go past it until you’re able to turn around.
    • Also, this isn’t a driving law, but something we noticed driving in Portugal. Almost all of their lines are white. In the U.S., we use yellow lines to distinguish a two-lane road with traffic going in both directions, and we use white lines for roads where the traffic is all going in the same direction.  In Portugal, almost all their lines are white, which means when you’re in a city with one-way roads, it’s hard to know if you’re turning down a street with traffic coming at you or going in your direction, so pay attention to what other drivers are doing. 

    Road Signs 

    Overall, we were able to get around without knowing what all their traffic signs meant. The speed limit signs and roundabout signs, parking signs, etc., were all easy enough to figure out. However, quite a few signs had me reaching for my phone more out of curiosity than anything else, but it is a good idea to review all the traffic signs before driving in Portugal. This article on their road signs includes an extensive list with photos of each street sign.

    3) Driving in Portugal: Roundabouts

    For any of you considering renting a car from the Lisbon airport, let me go over the one area that gave my husband a little trouble.  The roundabout.

    Now, he’s no stranger to roundabouts. In fact, he’s driven in the Swindon’s magic roundabout (watch the video to see how impressive this is), and of course, here in the States, we have a few small roundabouts scattered here and there.  Since we live on the West coast, they are still few and far between, but we still have them.  

    Shortly after leaving the Lisbon airport, we came to a large roundabout with five lanes encompassing it.  Since we were new to the area and relying on Google Maps to navigate us, there was a slight delay in knowing which exit we would take. 

    This, coupled with the fact that it was dark and the seemingly odd way cars were cutting across multiple lanes to exit, made for a very stressful first encounter to the Portuguese roundabout.  After we were on the highway, my husband said, “remind me to research the driving rules for roundabouts in Portugal.”

    After we checked into our Airbnb, he did his research and discovered that in Portugal, unless you are taking the first exit out of the roundabout, you are required to take one of the inner lanes, then cross through the other lanes of traffic to exit at a later exit.

    It took a lot of practice on his part to learn how to use their roundabouts properly, but by the end of the trip, he maneuvered them like a pro, including the 5-lane roundabout at the airport.

    4) Fueling up Your Car

    To Fuel Up or Not to Fuel Up? That is the Question.

    When you’re at the car rental company, they will explain that you can pay them for a full tank of gas upon return of your rental, or you can fuel it up before returning.  

    Our rental agent explained that they charge the same amount for fuel as you pay at the gas station. He also said that we didn’t have to decide in advance but that if we wanted to return and pay them to fuel it up, it was best to return on empty. If the car still has half a tank when returning, it is better to fuel it up rather than pay for a full tank when it only needs a half tank.

    Regular Fuel or Diesel

    Make sure you know whether your car takes regular unleaded fuel (petrol) or diesel. You do not want to make the mistake of putting the wrong fuel in your engine. Your CDW will not cover that, and it will put a significant damper on your vacation. Typically, it will say what type of fuel the vehicle uses on the gas tank door or gas cap. 

    Regular unleaded gas/petrol is referred to as “gasolina sem chumbo” or “gasolina sin plomo” and has an octane rating of 95 or 98.  We looked for the “95” on the fuel pump to ensure we used the recommended fuel type.  Diesel is called “gasoleo,” and liquid propane gas (LPG) is called GPL or “gas liquido.”

    5) Parking Your Car

    Make sure each of your accommodations has on-site parking before reserving a place to stay. Most reservations sites, such as Expedia.com or AirBnb.com, offer a sort feature that allows you to select only accommodations with parking.  Use this when researching where you’ll stay.  

    Tip: Uber is easy to use when you’re staying in large metropolitan areas such as Porto and Lisbon. Dealing with traffic and trying to find a parking spot can make a vacation really stressful, so when staying in a city, consider leaving your car parked at your accommodations and instead walk, or take an Uber or a taxi.

    I research well-located Airbnbs that allow me to walk to many of the main attractions, thus eliminating the need for a car. Sometimes, they may cost a little more, but in the end, they’re worth it for the time and money I save on transiting to the sights and attractions.

    Final Thoughts on Renting a Car in Portugal

    Portugal has an excellent public transport system.  You can take trains from Lisbon to Porto and even Lisbon to the Algarve, but it is nice to have a car if you want to explore.  When you’re visiting the Algarve region of Portugal, a vehicle is a must if you’re going to drive to the different beaches along the coast.  

    When you’re in Porto or Lisbon, you can book day trips through tour groups, but then you’re on their schedule, and you no longer have the flexibility of stopping when you want.  So, although you could spend two weeks without renting a car in Portugal, I think a rental car provides flexibility and allows for spontaneous side trips.

    It is easy to navigate using Google Maps. I did bring a paper map with me but never needed to use it. Make sure to download Google offline maps for Portugal before leaving home. That way, even if you lose cell coverage, you can still navigate to your next destination.

    And last, if you have a GSM phone that uses a SIM card, you can purchase a SIM card from the Vodafone store at the Humberto Delgado Airport.  They will help you install it and activate it so you can make sure it works before heading out.  This is so easy, and the card is good throughout Portugal.

    Other Related Articles You Might Enjoy

    Happy Travels!

    5 Tips for Renting a Car & Driving in Portugal (6)

  • How to Spend a Rainy Day in Lisbon

    Weather in Lisbon is usually sunny and warm.  However, the fact is that the weather can be unpredictable.  And chances are, if you travel enough, you will run into a rainy day or two.

    This happened to me on my recent trip to Lisbon so I thought I’d share a few ideas with you, just in case!

    Starting with one of my favorite spots here are a few ideas on how to spend a rainy day (or two) in Lisbon.

    1) Jeronimos Monastery

    Jeronimos Monastery Lisbon Portugal
    Across the street from Jeronimos Monastery.

    The Jeronimos Monastery was amazing!  I wasn’t sure what to expect and since I had seen a lot of churches across Europe I didn’t know whether it would be more of the same or something different.  It was beautiful!

    Limestone archway with carvings in monastery
    The limestone carvings are so intricate and are everywhere!

    You can easily spend an hour or more depending on your interests.  I found it to be architecturally beautiful and inside the cloister, you can walk around under the covered area and still get to view all the beautiful carvings.  The details that have been carved into every part of this building were so beautiful and intricate.

    Cloister at Jeronimos Monastery Lisbon
    The cloister is the one uncovered area, but easily viewed without getting wet.

    You are also able to go into the upper balcony area of the church, which was a really nice change.  Most cathedrals I’ve toured only allow you to come in on the floor level, so it was really nice to be able to come in and see it from above.

    large room with painted tiles in Jeronimos Monastery Lisbon
    This room had a couple of paintings as well as some pretty tile work along the walls.

    You can then also walk around below – to do this you have to actually exit the monastery and go back out to where you entered, don’t go get back in the line, but just exit and then make a quick left into the entrance for the church.

    Jeronimos Monastery cathedral ceiling in Lisbon
    Down on the cathedral floor if you look at the far back you can see the balcony area that is also open to tourists.

     

    2) Eat Pasteis at Pasteis de Belem

    Pasteis from Pasteis de Belem in Lisbon
    Oh what a beautiful sight! A wonderful plate of pasteis all for me! (Okay, I shared a couple)
    No matter what the weather in Lisbon is like, you have to eat pasteis while you’re here! We tried pastel de nata at 4 different places during our visit to Lisbon.  However, the pasteis (plural form of pastel de nata) at Pasteis de Belem were hands down the winners!  This is in large part due to the fact that they are making them fresh, so when they come to you they are still hot, fresh out of the oven.

    They have a yummy vanilla flavor and when topped with the cinnamon (cinnamon is a must) and some powdered sugar this seemingly simple treat transforms into something so delicious, that you may find yourself eating say 6 in one setting! (Not that I would know anything about that.)

    Pasteis de Belem napkin holder
    They started making these in 1837!
    Girl eating Portuguese custard in Lisbon
    These make me happy!!
    Freshly baked trays of pasteis de nata in Lisbon
    Freshly baked trays of pasteis de nata.

    3) LX Factory

    An outdoor art piece that looks like a bee in Lisbon's LX Factory
    This was some art we passed in the LX Factory area.
    This is an old warehouse district that has been turned into an area of art shops, bookstores, cafes and such.  Ler Devagar is a really cool bookstore at the LX Factory that has lots of seats for reading and its own cafe!  They sell both new and used books and have a fairly large selection of English books to choose from as well.

    It’s fun to roam the different levels and flip through the books.  Find a cozy spot by a window and just watch the rain while sipping a nice hot coffee.  You might even find yourself a little happy that the weather in Lisbon is rainy.

    Artsy bookstore in Lisbon Portgual
    Looking down from the second floor area.

    4) Time Out Food Market

    I didn’t end up making it here.  I really wanted to, but with the weather and how our day went we ended up eating at a great cafe in the LX Factory district and never made it here.  However, I did ride by it on the bus and it is fully enclosed inside a huge warehouse building, so it would be a great place to go roam the various food vendors, sit at a cafe stand or even take a cooking class.  It would make a great choice for a rainy day destination.  So next time I’m in Lisbon and it’s raining, I’ll check it out.
    People with umbrellas in the rain
    Make sure to grab a window seat and enjoy the view from someplace warm and dry!

    Other Ideas:

    The mall. Yes, I know it’s not the most exciting destination, but trust me, you can have a lot of fun window shopping, trying on clothes and if you want even take in a movie.  The movies in Portugal are played in their original languages, so if it is an English speaking movie, it will be played in its original English format with Portuguese subtitles.  Our airport driver really liked this as he said it helped him learn English faster.

    So there you go, here are a few ideas on how to spend a rainy day in Lisbon.  Sometimes when you see the forecast of rain, you get discouraged and you don’t know what to do, but trust me as long as you keep a sunny outlook (sorry had to go there) a rainy day need never ruin your vacation fun.

    USEFUL INFO:

    Getting Around Lisbon, Portugal:

    Purchase 24 hour transit passes or single-use passes from any metro station (including at the Lisbon airport). There are also some local stores that sell it as we purchased ours from the newspaper store by our hotel.  There is also a Lisboa Card which is a sightseeing pass, we didn’t use these on our trip, however, you can check it out and see whether or not it makes sense for your visit.

    Uber in Lisbon: https://www.uber.com/cities/lisbon/

    Uber was incredibly affordable and often cheaper and more efficient than using public transportation.

    Jeronimos Monastery, Praça do Império 1400-206 Lisboa, Portugal

    Website: http://www.mosteirojeronimos.gov.pt/en/

    LX Factory, R. Rodrigues de Faria 103, 1300-501 Lisboa, Portugal

    Website: http://lxfactory.com/en/homepage-en/

    Time Out Market, Av. 24 de Julho 49, 1200-479 Lisboa, Portugal
    Website: https://www.timeoutmarket.com/lisboa/en/

    For further details on my time at Jeronimos Monastery, the LX Factory and my visit to Lisbon and Sintra, check out Things to Do in Lisbon & Day Trip from Lisbon to Sintra.

    Planning a trip there soon? Check out the Lisbon weather forecast.
    Keep Looking on the Sunny Side!

  • Dinner at Lisbon’s Cantinho Lusitano

    Our first night in Lisbon, my friend Moe and I stumbled upon the little restaurant of Cantinho Lusitano.  They were booked full the night we stopped by, but the waiter who greeted said to email them about reservations for the following night.  So when we returned to our guesthouse, I sent him an email, which he promptly replied to.  We made dinner reservations for 7:00 p.m. the next night.

    Cantinho Lusitano is a Portuguese tapas restaurant that got rave reviews and just happens to be a 5-minute walk from Flores Guest House where we were staying.

    It Starts to Get Interesting

    So the following night, which happened to be a Saturday, we arrived at Cantinho Lusitano at about 10 minutes to 7:00. All the lights were off and the door was closed.  However since it didn’t open until 7:00, we just stood outside and waited. While we waited, a man from the apartment above the restaurant sticks his head out and tells us that the restaurant is closed, that something came up and they won’t be opening.  He also tosses down a business card to some taco restaurant up the street and tells us to go there.

    This all seems really odd to my friend and I. So we start talking about it among ourselves.  It seemed strange that they’d just close abruptly like that. But I suppose it’s possible for a family emergency to have come up (it is a very small family owned restaurant).  However, there was no note on the door.  Nothing at all to indicate that there was any change in plans.

    The man and his story were peculiar.  However, with the restaurant appearing completely closed at only 10 minutes to 7:00, it was also something that gave us pause.

    Friendly Faces

    So as we were waiting there and discussing what to do next, another couple came walking up. They were arriving for dinner there too. So I told them what the guy upstairs had said. They were very nice but didn’t seem to readily accept the upstairs man’s story. The woman decides to look inside to see if she can see anyone through the door.

    She turns to me and says she sees movement inside the restaurant. Then a light came on and soon the door opened.  They have not closed after all and were, in fact, open for business as usual.  We laughed and joked about how “convenient” it was that the man upstairs had another restaurant’s business card to refer us to.

    We were seated next to this nice couple and they told us that they see that type of thing happen often in Italy where they are living.  Apparently, it is a common trick people will use. So they knew better than to just believe what the guy upstairs said. We were so happy they came along!

    Dinner at Cantinho Lusitano

    As our delicious food begins arriving at our table, we begin enjoying it.  However, both of us wanted to chat more with our new friends.  We had ordered a mixed plate of black smoked pork sausage that we couldn’t finish on our own.

    Mixed Plate of Black Pork Smoked Sausages
    Mixed Plate of Black Pork Smoked Sausages

    We wanted to offer it to our “neighbors” but were worried as being “that table.”  You know the people who don’t know proper boundaries. The ones that take an innocent hello as an invitation to butt in on your every conversation. Yeah, we didn’t want to be that.

    Spicy Beef Meat Rolls with Mint and Greek Yogurt Sauce
    Spicy Beef Meat Rolls with Mint and Greek Yogurt Sauce
    Baked Goat Cheese with Honey and Rosemary
    Baked Goat Cheese with Honey and Rosemary

    Table Neighbors

    Thankfully, our table neighbors felt the same as us and soon we learned more about Bridget & Caleb.  They are Americans living in Italy and traveling around Europe whenever they have a holiday or free weekend.  Bridget is one of those warm and inviting people, that really takes an interest in what you have to say. She was so encouraging and warm.  Both her and Caleb reminded me of my friends and family back home.

    A couple we sat next to at Cantinho Lusitano
    Our Table Neighbors Caleb & Bridget.

    We spent over an hour after Moe and I had finished our meal just chatting and sharing travel stories. We learned more about their life in Italy and the differences in the culture there and in Europe.

    One of which was the fact that we had been sitting at our table chatting for over an hour after we had finished our food.  And we were never once asked to leave or made to feel like we should ask for our check.  Our waiter was fantastic and was always present without hovering.

    Garlic Shrimp
    Garlic Shrimp

    We had a wonderful night at Cantinho Lusitano and meeting Bridget and Caleb was really the icing on the cake.  It’s also one of the things I love about traveling–meeting other people. There are so many amazing people in the world and whenever I get to meet some of them it always brightens my day and creates a lasting memory that’s far better than any store-bought souvenir.

    To read more about our time in Lisbon check out “Things to Do in Lisbon” and “Day Trip from Lisbon to Sintra, Portugal.”

    Useful Info:

    Cantinho Lusitano – Update 2020 – Cantinho Lusitano is permanently closed
    Rua dos Prazeres, 52
    1200-355 Lisboa, Portugal

    Please note that they are closed on Sundays & Mondays.  Also, reservations are highly recommended!  The restaurant probably only seats about 20 and they fill up quick!

    The Flores Guest House
    https://www.floresguesthouse.com/
    Address: Tv. Piedade 38B, 1200-405 Lisboa, Portugal

    We absolutely loved our stay here! The location, as well as the staff, really make this place a great choice when in Lisbon, Portugal.

  • Day Trip From Lisbon to Sintra Portugal

    The sun is shining on us and we are headed to the Rossio Train Station to catch the train for a day trip from Lisbon to Sintra. On the way we walked down this really steep hill that has some colorful graffiti and tram also covered in bright graffiti.  This tram’s only route is to go up and down this hill all day. (That could get old real quick.)

    Lisbon Graffiti Hill and Colorful Tram
    I’d definitely take this tram up, rather than walk it if I had to go up it every day.

    At the Rossio Train Station

    You go up a series of escalators before you get to the top where the ticketing booths are located.  There were also some ticket machines, but the booths operated by people seemed to be faster. We got our tickets and then headed out to the train headed for Sintra, Portugal. It was already waiting on the platform. (They have regular departures, so no need to reserve in advance.) Also if you happen to have the Lisboa Card, I believe this train’s fare is included with that card.

    Arriving in Sintra, Portugal

    The train to Sintra takes about 40 minutes from Rossio station.  When you arrive you will exit the train station and turn right. Pass all the tuk-tuks and walk over to the buses to find Bus 434.  We spent 6.40€ to ride the bus 434 loop that will take you to the Palace of Pena, stopping at the Moorish castle and making a loop back down to let you off by the National Palace of Sintra before returning you to the train station.  It was the best money we spent! Sintra is hilly! And the Palace of Pena is way too far to walk to from town for our day trip.

    Originally I had planned on visiting the National Palace of Sintra first, but the bus took us straight up to the Moorish Castle and then to the Palace of Pena. However, it worked out as I learned that getting to the Palace of Pena earlier is really the way to go. There were a lot fewer crowds and the weather was better earlier in the day.

    Sintra town square with monument

    Purchasing Tickets:

    The bus drops you off by the ticket offices which are located about a 10-minute walk below the Palace of Pena. We purchased a combo ticket that included both the Palace of Pena as well as the Palace of Sintra.

    Alongside the ticket office, you can choose to pay a tuk-tuk, take a shuttle or walk the remaining way up to the Palace of Pena.  We chose to walk and although it is uphill, it was a very scenic walk thru the trees.  If you are in decent shape and the weather is good, I would recommend it. It took us about 10 minutes to walk up to the palace.

    Palace of Pena

    The Palace of Pena is unlike any other palace we had visited before. This one is so playfully designed and so colorful it is really something special!

    Palace of Pena in Sintra, Portugal

    For me, it was definitely worth the day trip to Sintra.  However had the weather been really awful and rainy, I probably would not have gone.  There is a considerable amount of outdoor walking and viewing involved in appreciating this castle.  You also get to tour the inside, but the outside is really what most people come to see.

    Archway entrance to the Palace of Pena

    On the backside of the palace, you’ll find the below chapel.

    Palace of Pena Chapel
    This is the palace chapel found on the rear side of the Palace of Pena.

    There is also a pathway that circles behind the chapel and leads you along the palace walls.  You can walk all the way around the palace along the wall and catch wonderful views of the Moorish Castle as well as the town of Sintra.

    Moorish castle from palace of pena
    Views of the Moorish Castle from the Palace of Pena walls

    We walked back down the hill from the palace to the bus stop. We caught the next bus (keep your ticket handy to show the driver) and were off to see the Palace of Sintra.

    Snack Break

    We got off the bus and decided to take a snack break before heading to the National Palace of Sintra.  So we stopped at Piriquita, a bakery that was recommended on the Netflix show Somebody Feed Phil.  They have a local style pasteis that are a little different than the kind we ate in Lisbon (click here to read more on that). They were good, but honestly, they don’t hold a candle to Pasteis de Belem.

    We tried both the version that was unique to Sintra as well as the regular Portuguese pasteis. They are served cold – which makes a difference, the one that is long and has a flaky sugar-coated crust was pretty good, it sort of reminded me of a strudel.

    Pasteis de nata and pastries in Sintra Portugal

    Sintra National Palace

    The Palace of Sintra is unique in its own right.  It has two cone-shaped chimneys and a big open square out front with views of the city below.

    Palace of Sintra with two distinct cone shaped chimneys
    Notice the unique cone-shaped chimneys.

    We timed our visit just right as we pretty much had the palace to ourselves. Which was very apparent when I would attempt to walk across the floors and my shoes would squeak, squeak, squeak with every step.  It was really funny and annoying at the same time.

    Wooden desk with tiled fireplace

    The Sintra National Palace has rooms with unique ceilings and wood furniture, walls with beautiful tiling, an enormous Murano glass chandelier, a garden, it’s own chapel and much more.

    Blue & White Tiled Walls

    I know most people will probably come to Sintra to see the Palace of Pena, but I highly recommend also visiting the National Palace of Sintra.

    Murano glass chandelier at Palace of Sintra

    Afterward, we left the palace and walked back down the street to where the bus had let us off before and got on the next bus (showing our receipt again) that soon dropped us off at the train station.

    Back in Lisbon

    We ended our last night in Lisbon doing laundry.  Yeah I know, real glamorous, but you have to do it sometime!  Also, a laundromat is a great place to meet people. We met a Brazilian man who was in Lisbon studying to get his Master’s degree.  It was great learning about his perspective on living in both Lisbon and in Brazil.

    For more on how we spent our first two days in Lisbon read about it here on Things to Do in Lisbon. And if you’re looking for a great place for dinner in Lisbon check out my experience at Cantinho Lusitano.

    Useful Info:

    • Rossio Train Station & Oriente Tran Station are the two main train stations for getting to Sintra from Lisbon.  Check out their timetables here.
    • Bus 434 in Sintra will take you on a loop starting at the train station going to the Moorish Castle, Palace of Pena, National Palace of Sintra and back to the train station.
    • Uber in Lisbon is very affordable, you can check out Uber fares.

  • Things to Do In Lisbon, Portugal

    What are some things to do in Lisbon, Portugal?  How should you spend your time there?  Well, however, you want of course!  Travel is about the experience, so don’t get too hung up on seeing everything your first time. Enjoy all the new sights, food and culture of your new destination.  

    Here’s how I spent 2 days in Lisbon, Portugal to get you started with some ideas.

    Where: Lisbon, Portugal
    How Long: 2 Days
    Weather: Mostly rainy and windy
    Traveling Companion: Moe (my childhood friend, read more about our friendship here)
    Day 1: The Jeronimos Monastery, Monument to the Discoveries, Pasteis de Belem
    Day 2: Riding Tram 28, Alfama Neighborhood, LX Factory
    Useful Info: Getting Around, Where We Stayed, Places to Eat


    Day 1

     

    We stayed at the Flores Guest House while in Lisbon and they had the cutest breakfast delivery ever! Each room had a little hook outside the door where they would deliver your breakfast basket by 8:00 a.m. every morning.  Then whenever you were up and ready, you just opened your front door and retrieved your basket.

    The baskets are filled with fruit, bread, meat and cheese, juice and a “surprise” item, that usually consisted of fresh baked good.  You could put in requests to tailor the basket more to your preferences. For example, we asked instead of the meat and cheese if we could just have extra fruit for the rest of our stay.

    Basket of fruit and pastries from hotel in Lisbon
    This basket was made up of croissants, rolls, fruit, jam and orange juice.

    So after enjoying our lovely breakfast, we went to catch the bus to visit the Jeronimos Monastery.  

    Jeronimos Monastery  Lisbon, Portugal

    TIPS:

    • Arrive early (preferably before noon) as the lines can get long.  
    • The Jeronimos Monastery costs €10. You can pay an additional €2 for a combo ticket to also visit their National Archaeological Museum.
    • Additionally, you can also purchase this combo ticket at the National Archaeology Museum (in case the ticket line at the monastery is too long – purchase there and then skip the line at the monastery) OR you can also buy a combo ticket at Belem Tower should you choose to see that first.
    • Plan to visit Pasteis de Belem either before or after, it’s totally worth it!

    For more information on hours and directions visit the official Jeronimos Monastery website.

     

    Jeronimos Monastery in Lisbon Portugal.
    This view is across the street from the beautiful Jeronimos Monastery.

    The Monastery is 500 years old and is beautiful inside and out.  It is architecturally stunning! The intricate carvings all throughout it will keep you gasping in awe as you walk around each corner and discover something new. It is no wonder that it has been classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  

    Jeronimos Monastery Cloister
    The cloister inside the monastery.

    Jeronimos Monastery is constructed out of limestone and took 100 years to build.  I can just imagine them chiseling out the beautiful carvings by hand.  That’s some dedication to detail!

    Jeronimos Monastery gargoyles
    There are faces, creatures and designs carved everywhere.
    Limestone archways
    Beautiful limestone archways that overlook the cloister.

    Pasteis de Belem   Lisbon, Portugal

    After visiting the Monastery we walked a few blocks up the street to try pastel de nata at Pasteis de Belem.  Pastel de nata (or pasteis de nata for plural) is a Portuguese custard tart and is a must try when in Lisbon. Pasteis de Belem was the top rated place to have pasteis de nata in all of Lisbon.  They use the same recipe that the monks at Jeronimos Monastery created in 1837.

    Pasteis de Belem history
    Now that’s a recipe with some history!

    Navigating Pasteis de Belem

    It can be a little confusing when you first arrive at Pasteis de Belem.  Outside at the furthest entrance, we found a HUGE line of people waiting to buy pasteis to go.  However, we wanted to sit inside and take a break from the rain.

    The first entrance you reach when walking from the monastery is the entrance for those wanting to sit inside.  You’ll see the entrance and the cashier line for those purchasing to-go orders to your right as you walk inside.

    When you enter you will want to follow the blue signs (straight and to the right) for “Table Service: Service de Mesa 400 Seats” until you reach another sign that says “Queue for Seating.”  Don’t panic if it seems really long, with 400 seats the line moves very quickly! 

    Plate of pasteis Portuguese custard tarts
    What a beautiful sight! These are enough to make me want to return to Lisbon, Portugal.

    We both decided to get 6 of the pasteis, some hot chocolate (if a cup of thick, molten chocolate is your thing you’ll want to try it too) and a pot of tea.  Hey, this was going to be our lunch and not just a snack, so don’t judge us.

    Portuguese custard tarts covered in cinnamon and sugar
    Now to add that nice coating of cinnamon & sugar!

    Our plate of pasteis arrived, we each took one and added the obligatory cinnamon and powdered sugar on top.  DON’T SKIP THIS PART. Sorry, don’t mean to yell, but the cinnamon really adds that extra
    something special.

    Then we bit into the pastry, it had a crispy flaky outer shell with a warm custard filling that made you smile and go mmmm.  For something that appears to be so simple, it was really very delicious. I ate all 6 of mine and drank my whole pot of tea! Oh yeah, that’s how I roll. Moe was the runner up with 4 pasteis, pretty good for her first time. And you can see below that she thoroughly enjoyed them.

    Girl eating Portuguese custard tart
    Moe is having her “mmmm good moment” eating her first pasteis de nata.

    After we slowly waddled, I mean walked out of the cafe, we decided since the rain had stopped for the moment that we’d walk over to the Monument to the Discoveries or as it’s also known: Monument to Henry the Navigator.

    The Monument to the Discoveries   Lisbon, Portugal

    The monument is really impressive!  It is huge and rises up alongside the water.  I loved the beautiful map they had built into the ground using stones and pictures.  From the monument, you can also get nice views (at least when the weather is good) of the April 24th Bridge as well as the large Christo Rei or Christ the King statue (it looks similar to Brazil’s Christ the Redeemer statue).

    Girl walking by The Monument to the Discoveries in Lisbon, Portugal
    Moe walking along the water.

    There’s a great boardwalk where you can watch sailboats pass by or wander over to the marina.  If the weather is nice you can also take the sidewalk along the road to walk down to the Tower of Belem.  Due to the weather, we chose to skip this. But the tower is beautiful and would have lovely views on a sunny day. There is also a viewing area from inside the Monument of Discoveries as well as historical information regarding the monument.

    Sailboats and bird by water in Lisbon Portugal
    If you look you can just make out the small silhouette of the Christ the King statue in the background by the bridge.

    National Archaeological Museum

    It began to rain again, so we made our way to the National Archaeological Museum. Its entrance is just to the left (when facing it) of the Monastery.  Since it had only been an extra €2 we had purchased the combo ticket at the Jeronimos Monastery.

    The archaeological museum is very small, but it has some nice exhibits on Egyptian and Roman artifacts as well as a small area for archaeological items specific to Portugal.  If you have extra time and are interested in archaeology and ancient artifacts, then the €2 will probably be worth it. If you’re pressed for time or just don’t have any interest, it is definitely not a “must-see.”

    Archaeological Artifact at museum in Lisbon Portugal
    This was an ancient “doll” that had movable arms and legs.

    We caught the next bus back to our guest house and along the way we enjoyed views of the beautifully tiled buildings and the ancient aqueduct that was built in the 1700s.  It is one of the few structures to survive the Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755. 

    Day 2

    Tram 28

    It is raining even harder today. We were thoroughly soaked on our way to the historical Tram 28 stop.  Our hope is to get a nice tour of the city as we ride it up to Saint George’s Castle.

    We get on the tram and it is very full and the windows are fogged over.  We laugh about our “scenic ride.” Eventually, someone opens up some windows and that does help with the fogging.  However, the tram continues to pick up more and more passengers and at one point there was a ticket officer squeezing through the crowd to check that we all had valid tickets.

    That, by the way, is a fairly common procedure that we’ve seen throughout our travels in Europe.  They will pass through on the subways, buses, and trains checking to make sure everyone has paid. Usually, this seems to happen on the weekend vs the weekdays.  So it’s always good to make sure you have a valid ticket or pass. You can be hit with hefty fines or as we saw on one train, the police might even be called in.

    Yellow street tram in Lisbon Portugal
    Although not Tram 28, we saw this one when hopping off in Alfama.

    Due to the fogging of the windows, I would recommend taking Tram 28 on a sunny day if you’re hoping for a scenic ride. For us, it was mainly a mode of transportation.

    Walk thru the Alfama neighborhood to St. George’s Castle (Castelo de Sao Jorge)

    We hopped off Tram 28 and took time to soak in the views around us.  We were now in Alfama, the medieval neighborhood in Lisbon that survived the great earthquake, tsunami, and fire of 1755 (talk about the ultimate trifecta of destruction!).  It is a charming neighborhood with smaller streets, shops, and cafes. It has a different feel than the “newer” neighborhoods that were rebuilt after 1755.

    Looking over the top of the Alfama Neighborhood in Lisbon.
    Alfama Neighborhood with St George’s Castle on the hill.

    We walked up to the Castle but decided due to the rainy weather to not pay to go inside, the castle is mostly outdoors and one of its highlights is walking the old walls and taking in the views — views which we didn’t have on this stormy day.  So I’ll save that for another visit.

    The walk to the castle though was an interesting one.  We passed through an area with old ruins that had been turned into an outdoor studio for graffiti artists.  

    girl pretending to touch graffiti finger on the wall
    Having fun with the graffiti

    There was also an outdoor urinal, which as an American, was quite a novelty and the first we’d seen on our travels. So we couldn’t miss that photo opp!

    Outdoor urinal with a girl inside it.
    Moe is peeking over the urinal door.

    Next up was the LX Factory, so we hopped a bus and headed that way.

    LX Factory   Lisbon, Portugal

    Bumblebee Art Sculpture in Lisbon's LX Factory
    This must bee the place. (Oh yeah I said that!)

    The LX Factory is an old warehouse district turned artsy.  There are art studios, cafes, bookstores and outdoor art sculptures all inside this old factory area.  Once inside the LX Factory gates, you’ve got warehouses on each side of a small street.  We made our way to the bookstore, Ler Devagar, and stepped inside not a moment too soon. We heard the rain just thunder down on the metal roof and I said to Moe “boy we made it here just in time!”  

    Ler Devagar

    View of artsy Lisbon bookstore from the second floor.
    Looking down on this creative bookstore.

    The bookstore is so cute! It has multiple levels of books, both used and new to search through.  There is also a fairly large selection of English books. Additionally, they have a cafe so you can grab a comfy seat and have a cup of coffee while reading a book – or in our case – listening to the rain.

    Unicycle art decoration in bookstore in Lisbon Portugal.
    I loved all the hanging art pieces.

    We spent time looking upstairs where they have their used books selection as well as a small local artist exhibit.  Then we wandered back downstairs by the cafe and found a comfy seat by the window to watch the rain and look through some books.  We even had fun finding Waldo in the “Where’s Waldo Book” we found in the children’s section. Hey, we’re still kids at heart!

    We eventually decided that although it is still raining cats and dogs outside that we would quickly dash out and into the adjoining cafe next door.  We go inside WISH Slow Coffee House and put our name on the list. It’s about a 20-minute wait as they are quite busy with all of us trying to escape the rain.

    WISH Slow Coffee House

    Soon we are seated at a window seat that gives us a view of the main street in front of the shops.  We are warm and comfy as we leisurely sit here and watch the people pass by with their umbrellas or those not-so-fortunate without umbrellas dashing as fast as they can.  Then there’s the guy not looking where he’s going and sploosh he steps right into a puddle. Ahh man!

    People walking with umbrellas in the rain
    People watching from a dry seat.

    It was so relaxing and fun to just be sitting there in this refurbished warehouse eating lunch while watching the rain and the people passing by.  I sat there and thought to myself, I am in Lisbon, in a cafe. It didn’t matter that I wasn’t out sightseeing, I was experiencing the city right where I sat. Moe soon turned to me and said, “I’m having a really great time.” It was nice that we both felt the same about this very simple, yet enjoyable moment.

    Bagel Sandwich
    A delicious grilled pear with goat cheese bagel sandwich.

    We stayed there for over 2 hours just watching people and enjoying the ambiance and good food.

    We tried the carrot cake for dessert and it was some of the best carrot cake I have ever eaten!  Not to mention the Jasmine tea they served us was top notch! I also tried their slow-roasted coffee as they slow roast their beans in house.  They have a variety of good coffee choices to try.

    Uber & Making Our Own Adventure at the Mall

    The rain had no intentions of letting up, so we decided we’d go watch a movie at a nearby mall (they show them in their original language throughout Portugal). We requested an Uber, which met us at the door so we could avoid getting wet. It was great! Oh and Uber in Lisbon is VERY affordable! I highly recommend using it here, there were a couple of times where it was cheaper for us to split the fare for Uber than take the bus.

    At the Mall

    The movie we planned to see was sold out, so we went shopping instead! Soon what was just casual browsing turned into a friendly competition of who could try on the ugliest outfit.  Now that was fun! Although not as much fun when we actually saw ourselves in the silly outfits…

    We grabbed dinner in the mall and hailed another Uber ride back to the guest house.  

    Although Day 2 wasn’t our typical “see it all” style of sightseeing, it was a lot of fun and memorable. And that’s how it should be, don’t hold to tightly to your “to-do” list while traveling, leave room for change and spontaneity.  You never know what memories you might create.

    To learn about our visit to the Palace of Pena on our final day in Lisbon, read about it here: Day Trip to Sintra, Portugal.

    Final Thoughts on Visiting Lisbon

    Everyone here has been so friendly! Really, we’ve met nothing but helpful people, friendly people and they have a great sense of humor here too.  And the food! Not to mention the beautifully tiled buildings!

    To say I enjoyed my time here in Lisbon would be putting it mildly.  I hope to return and explore the entire country of Portugal in greater depth in the future. We just touched the tip of the iceberg on things to do in Lisbon, there was so much more to see!

    There are amazing, friendly people everywhere and traveling never fails to reveal this to me.

    USEFUL INFO:

    Getting Around Lisbon, Portugal:

    Purchase 24-hour transit passes or single-use passes from any metro station (including at the Lisbon airport). There are also some local stores that sell it as we purchased ours from the newspaper store by our hotel.

    We used the Viva Viagem 24 hour carris/metro card. This allowed us unlimited travel on the metro, bus, trams & funicular for a 24 hour period.  Check out this article from Lisbon Guru for more information regarding their metro cards. 

    There is also a Lisboa Card which is a sightseeing pass, we didn’t use these on our trip, however, you can check it out and see whether or not it makes sense for your visit.

    Uber in Lisbon: https://www.uber.com/cities/lisbon/

    Uber was incredibly affordable and often cheaper and more efficient than using public transportation.

    Where We Stayed:

    The Flores Guest House
    https://www.facebook.com/floresguesthouse/ 
    Address: Tv. Piedade 38B, 1200-405 Lisboa, Portugal

    They have the cutest breakfast delivery I’ve ever had.  They leave a breakfast basket outside your door each morning by 8:00 a.m. for you to retrieve when you’re ready.

    I would definitely stay at Flores Guest House again, it is located near excellent restaurants all within minutes of walking and the staff that runs it could not have been more helpful and kind.  We really enjoyed our stay there.

    Restaurants we enjoyed:

    Cantinho Lusitano – 2020 Update – Cantinho Lusitano is permanently closed
    Rua dos Prazeres 52, 1200-355 Lisboa, Portugal
    Overall Thoughts: Love the small dining atmosphere, the service was impeccable, food was delicious, I highly recommend it! To read more about our adventures at dinner, please check out this article “Dinner at Cantinho Lusitano.”

    Churrasqueira da Paz
    R. Paz 80, 1200-320 Lisboa, Portugal
    https://www.facebook.com/Churrasqueiradapaz/

    Pasteis de Belem
    R. de Belém 84-92, 1300-085 Lisboa, Portugal
    https://www.facebook.com/pasteisdebelempaginaoficial/

    WISH Concept Store & Slow Coffee House
    Espaço G 02a, R. Rodrigues de Faria 103, 1300-472 Lisboa, Portugal
    https://www.facebook.com/wishslowcoffeehouse/