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Category: Europe

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  • Misadventures in Normandy France: There’s no going back.

    My friend Angela and I took a two and a half month backpacking trip through Europe, and although the majority of our travel was via trains and planes, we did rent a car during our visit to the Normandy region of France.  It wouldn’t have been a complete trip if I couldn’t say we used “trains, planes, and automobiles.”  

    Little did I know at the time, but this decision would go down in my travel journals as yet another travel misadventure. For those of you, who have read some of my previous misadventure stories, you know that I recommend you try to keep a positive attitude and have fun even when things don’t go the way you planned.  Our misadventure in Normandy was no different!

    The Misadventure Begins!

    The Normandy region of France is known for its rich history and beautiful coastal towns. In addition to the historic D-Day sites, there is also the unique island fortress of Mont Saint-Michel, seaside towns like Honfleur, the historic city of Rouen, the home of Claude Monet in Giverny and much more in Normandy. This region deserves so much more time than we had to give it.

    We took a train from Paris to Caen, where we had a hotel just outside the city. This is an excellent base for a quick trip to see the D-Day sites. It also has an airport, which made it convenient for us to get to our next destination.  Upon arriving at Caen, we took an Uber to our hotel, where we spent the night.

    The next morning we took a taxi to the car rental agency. However, we arrived before our rental time of 9:00 a.m., and the woman at the desk said that she couldn’t give us the car before 9:00. Since we still had around 20 minutes to wait, we decided to find an ATM and get some cash for our trip to Mont Saint-Michel.

    We get our money and return to the car rental agency.  When we arrive back at the agency, there is now a line.  We wait and wait and wait. By the time they finally get around to helping us and giving us the keys to our car, it is almost 10:00 a.m.!  Our car, a Fiat 500, is positioned at the exit to the garage, so we quickly look over it and then get in and drive away.

    Blue Fiat 500 rented in Normandy.
    Our rental car while in Normandy, France.

    Driving to Mont Saint-Michel

    We are meeting a friend of Angela’s in Mont Saint-Michel, and we still have a 2-hour drive to get there.  Since the car rental process took longer than expected, we are running a little behind schedule.  This is a common occurrence when traveling.  Often timetables, trains, planes, and so on run behind schedule, and you must be flexible enough to adapt your itinerary accordingly.

    So Angela, with the help of Google, navigates us out of the city and onto the freeway.  We talk about the road signs that are different than our own back home, but mostly this could have been any freeway in rural America.  Fields and farmhouses dot the landscape. It is not so different from many highways in the U.S.

    We arrive at the parking lot for Mont Saint-Michel and quickly locate a parking spot.  Angela gets a text from her friend, who has also just arrived. We follow the signs from the parking lot to the shuttle area. However, since there is a long line for the shuttle, we decide we’ll walk to the island. 

    It is cold today. The low is around 32 degrees Fahrenheit, and the high is in the low 40’s, but with the wind chill, it feels much colder. However, we’re committed and figure it will give us excellent opportunities for photos along the way. It turns out that it’s about a 40-minute walk, thus, the reason for the shuttle line.

    Mont St-Michel in Normandy region of France.
    The view of Mont Saint-Michel as we walk up the causeway.

     

    We meet with Angela’s friend and have a wonderful time exploring the city of Mont Saint-Michel. I plan to write a post all about our visit.  It is such a unique destination, and I recommend you take a day to visit it if you’re ever in the area.

    As we leave the walled city area, we walk through an archway, and as we exit the arch, there is a man with his two kids who are throwing something – food, I assume.  Shortly after passing them, Angela says, “I think a bird just pooped on me,” but I say, “well, the kids were throwing stuff, so that was probably it.”

    She leaves to use the restroom before our two-hour drive back to the hotel. She returns and shows me that she did indeed get pooped on by a bird.  It is on the front of her jacket. Talk about misadventures! Yuck!

    woman with scarf and coat
    Angela shows me the evidence.

    The Parking Lot Discovery

    We return to our car and prepare to leave. I put the car in reverse, nothing happens. It doesn’t move. So I figure that I must not have the stick shift over in the correct position. Some cars can be a little finicky, no big deal. So I try to back up again. Nope. Nothing. I try everything I can think of and still NO REVERSE.  So then Angela and I start Googling what to do. We discover that this is a common issue with the Fiat 500.  

    Now to all of you out there who think I must not know how to drive a stick shift, I assure you, that is not the case.  I have driven and owned manual transmission cars off and on since receiving my driver’s license (and even before that). No, this car’s reverse was just not working.

    There were a few suggestions from people online for ways to possibly get reverse to work, like turn the car ignition off, put it in first, then turn on and try putting it in reverse.  I tried all of these suggestions and still nothing!

    So we realize, there’s only one thing to do–push the car backward ourselves!  So Angela, being the good sport she is, pushes the car back.  Thankfully it’s a small car. We both feel entirely ridiculous and are laughing so hard as she pushes the car backward.

    Angela is our personal reverse valet! Her superhero name is The Human Reverse Machine (coming to a parking lot near you)!

    Accepting the Situation and Moving Forward

    We laugh and discuss the absurdity of our situation as we begin our drive back.  We both agree that it seems hard to believe the car rental company would not have known about this issue. It was rather convenient that the car was already facing forward when we got into it. Otherwise, we would have discovered the problem at the rental agency, rather than almost 100 miles away!

    We talk about driving back to the rental company that night, but due to our late departure from Mont Saint-Michel, it would be a challenge to arrive before the rental agency closed. Plus, it was a hassle getting the car this morning, and we had a full day of driving to D-Day sites the following morning. So we agree to accept it as is, rather than miss out on our intended itinerary.

    There’s No Going Back

    Thus our misadventure in Normandy began.  The next morning, we get in the car to leave, and Angela has to push the car out so we can be on our way. Nothing quite like something not working to make you appreciate those simple things you take for granted! Just imagine for a moment if your car didn’t have a working reverse.  

    You’re at the grocery store, you go to the front of your car to push it backward, and someone walks by and asks: “Watchya doin’?”  You reply: “Oh, you know, just backing the car out.”

    Perhaps you’re leaving for work in the morning, and you holler “Hey honey, I’m leaving for work, can you help me back the car up?”

    You decide to stop in at the local Sonic drive-in, and the server brings your food out to your car, you thank them and then ask, “Could you help me back out now?”

    Okay, you get the point, reverse is a requirement in a car!  It’s also something I never thought I’d be missing, but then, travel is unpredictable!

    Omaha Beach Memorial Site
    Omaha Beach Memorial Site

    Angela: The Human Reverse Machine in Action

    We arrive at our first D-Day site, The Airborne Museum at Sainte-Mère-Église, and discover there are no pull-through parking spots.  Just our luck! Unfortunately, this is a recurring theme throughout our entire day! Park to see D-Day sites, Angela pushes us out, and we continue to the next location. 

    When we arrive at Pointe du Hoc, I turn into a disabled parking lot by mistake. It is a dead-end lot too. So now I need to–yep, you guessed it–back out! I do my best to swing as wide as possible, but it is too tight with parked cars on either side for me to complete a full U-turn.  So I am directly behind another vehicle that also happens to want to leave at this exact moment!

    The passenger is outside the vehicle attempting to help her driver back up. She looks at Angela, who is getting out of our car and motions as if to say, “no-no, move, we’re trying to leave.”  Angela, of course, nods her head, saying, “yes, I understand, so are we.” 

    I am inside the car, observing this hilarious game of charades.  Angela then pushes our car backward and gets in.  We drive off laughing hysterically at the absurdity of the situation and the look on that poor woman’s face! What she must have thought of us.

    At Omaha Beach, when we begin to leave, people are standing around watching as these two crazy girls push their car out of the parking spot. One of them even stopped to ask Angela if she needed help, “no, been doing this all day long!”  It is tough not to laugh as the situation is so odd and funny. 

    And so this is how our misadventures in Normandy went.  We were so happy to return the car that night. Note to self: never rent (or buy) a Fiat 500 again. Enjoy this video clip of the human reverse machine in action.

    Embrace Your Misadventure. Choose Laughter.

    Summary of our misadventures in Normandy: We get our car late, Angela gets pooped on by a bird, and we discover (after driving almost 100 miles away) that we have no reverse – not to mention it’s freezing outside!  Did this keep us from having an incredible visit to Normandy?  Not one bit.  I think it is even more memorable because of our misadventures!

    Had I let the car situation ruin our trip, I would have missed out on so much.  The D-Day sites in Normandy are full of world-changing history. They hold stories of honor and sacrifice, peace, and unity. I was humbled as an American to come and see first-hand these areas I had only read about in history books. I left inspired and grateful to all who sacrificed so I could have freedom, and just think, I could have let a little thing like working reverse stop me.  

    Things happen when you’re traveling, and you need to roll with the punches and have a good attitude.  We took what could have been a very frustrating situation and chose to see the endless humor in it, and we didn’t waste our only day to see D-Day sites because of it. We played the hand we were dealt with and created some unforgettable memories in the process.

    Thankfully, Angela was a good sport and isn’t a wimp. She backed our car up over and over again like a boss!

    So misadventures or not, have fun making memories!

    Choose Laughter!

  • How to Spend a Rainy Day in Lisbon

    Weather in Lisbon is usually sunny and warm.  However, the fact is that the weather can be unpredictable.  And chances are, if you travel enough, you will run into a rainy day or two.

    This happened to me on my recent trip to Lisbon so I thought I’d share a few ideas with you, just in case!

    Starting with one of my favorite spots here are a few ideas on how to spend a rainy day (or two) in Lisbon.

    1) Jeronimos Monastery

    Jeronimos Monastery Lisbon Portugal
    Across the street from Jeronimos Monastery.

    The Jeronimos Monastery was amazing!  I wasn’t sure what to expect and since I had seen a lot of churches across Europe I didn’t know whether it would be more of the same or something different.  It was beautiful!

    Limestone archway with carvings in monastery
    The limestone carvings are so intricate and are everywhere!

    You can easily spend an hour or more depending on your interests.  I found it to be architecturally beautiful and inside the cloister, you can walk around under the covered area and still get to view all the beautiful carvings.  The details that have been carved into every part of this building were so beautiful and intricate.

    Cloister at Jeronimos Monastery Lisbon
    The cloister is the one uncovered area, but easily viewed without getting wet.

    You are also able to go into the upper balcony area of the church, which was a really nice change.  Most cathedrals I’ve toured only allow you to come in on the floor level, so it was really nice to be able to come in and see it from above.

    large room with painted tiles in Jeronimos Monastery Lisbon
    This room had a couple of paintings as well as some pretty tile work along the walls.

    You can then also walk around below – to do this you have to actually exit the monastery and go back out to where you entered, don’t go get back in the line, but just exit and then make a quick left into the entrance for the church.

    Jeronimos Monastery cathedral ceiling in Lisbon
    Down on the cathedral floor if you look at the far back you can see the balcony area that is also open to tourists.

     

    2) Eat Pasteis at Pasteis de Belem

    Pasteis from Pasteis de Belem in Lisbon
    Oh what a beautiful sight! A wonderful plate of pasteis all for me! (Okay, I shared a couple)
    No matter what the weather in Lisbon is like, you have to eat pasteis while you’re here! We tried pastel de nata at 4 different places during our visit to Lisbon.  However, the pasteis (plural form of pastel de nata) at Pasteis de Belem were hands down the winners!  This is in large part due to the fact that they are making them fresh, so when they come to you they are still hot, fresh out of the oven.

    They have a yummy vanilla flavor and when topped with the cinnamon (cinnamon is a must) and some powdered sugar this seemingly simple treat transforms into something so delicious, that you may find yourself eating say 6 in one setting! (Not that I would know anything about that.)

    Pasteis de Belem napkin holder
    They started making these in 1837!
    Girl eating Portuguese custard in Lisbon
    These make me happy!!
    Freshly baked trays of pasteis de nata in Lisbon
    Freshly baked trays of pasteis de nata.

    3) LX Factory

    An outdoor art piece that looks like a bee in Lisbon's LX Factory
    This was some art we passed in the LX Factory area.
    This is an old warehouse district that has been turned into an area of art shops, bookstores, cafes and such.  Ler Devagar is a really cool bookstore at the LX Factory that has lots of seats for reading and its own cafe!  They sell both new and used books and have a fairly large selection of English books to choose from as well.

    It’s fun to roam the different levels and flip through the books.  Find a cozy spot by a window and just watch the rain while sipping a nice hot coffee.  You might even find yourself a little happy that the weather in Lisbon is rainy.

    Artsy bookstore in Lisbon Portgual
    Looking down from the second floor area.

    4) Time Out Food Market

    I didn’t end up making it here.  I really wanted to, but with the weather and how our day went we ended up eating at a great cafe in the LX Factory district and never made it here.  However, I did ride by it on the bus and it is fully enclosed inside a huge warehouse building, so it would be a great place to go roam the various food vendors, sit at a cafe stand or even take a cooking class.  It would make a great choice for a rainy day destination.  So next time I’m in Lisbon and it’s raining, I’ll check it out.
    People with umbrellas in the rain
    Make sure to grab a window seat and enjoy the view from someplace warm and dry!

    Other Ideas:

    The mall. Yes, I know it’s not the most exciting destination, but trust me, you can have a lot of fun window shopping, trying on clothes and if you want even take in a movie.  The movies in Portugal are played in their original languages, so if it is an English speaking movie, it will be played in its original English format with Portuguese subtitles.  Our airport driver really liked this as he said it helped him learn English faster.

    So there you go, here are a few ideas on how to spend a rainy day in Lisbon.  Sometimes when you see the forecast of rain, you get discouraged and you don’t know what to do, but trust me as long as you keep a sunny outlook (sorry had to go there) a rainy day need never ruin your vacation fun.

    USEFUL INFO:

    Getting Around Lisbon, Portugal:

    Purchase 24 hour transit passes or single-use passes from any metro station (including at the Lisbon airport). There are also some local stores that sell it as we purchased ours from the newspaper store by our hotel.  There is also a Lisboa Card which is a sightseeing pass, we didn’t use these on our trip, however, you can check it out and see whether or not it makes sense for your visit.

    Uber in Lisbon: https://www.uber.com/cities/lisbon/

    Uber was incredibly affordable and often cheaper and more efficient than using public transportation.

    Jeronimos Monastery, Praça do Império 1400-206 Lisboa, Portugal

    Website: http://www.mosteirojeronimos.gov.pt/en/

    LX Factory, R. Rodrigues de Faria 103, 1300-501 Lisboa, Portugal

    Website: http://lxfactory.com/en/homepage-en/

    Time Out Market, Av. 24 de Julho 49, 1200-479 Lisboa, Portugal
    Website: https://www.timeoutmarket.com/lisboa/en/

    For further details on my time at Jeronimos Monastery, the LX Factory and my visit to Lisbon and Sintra, check out Things to Do in Lisbon & Day Trip from Lisbon to Sintra.

    Planning a trip there soon? Check out the Lisbon weather forecast.
    Keep Looking on the Sunny Side!
  • Dinner at Lisbon’s Cantinho Lusitano

    Our first night in Lisbon, my friend Moe and I stumbled upon the little restaurant of Cantinho Lusitano.  They were booked full the night we stopped by, but the waiter who greeted said to email them about reservations for the following night.  So when we returned to our guesthouse, I sent him an email, which he promptly replied to.  We made dinner reservations for 7:00 p.m. the next night.

    Cantinho Lusitano is a Portuguese tapas restaurant that got rave reviews and just happens to be a 5-minute walk from Flores Guest House where we were staying.

    It Starts to Get Interesting

    So the following night, which happened to be a Saturday, we arrived at Cantinho Lusitano at about 10 minutes to 7:00. All the lights were off and the door was closed.  However since it didn’t open until 7:00, we just stood outside and waited. While we waited, a man from the apartment above the restaurant sticks his head out and tells us that the restaurant is closed, that something came up and they won’t be opening.  He also tosses down a business card to some taco restaurant up the street and tells us to go there.

    This all seems really odd to my friend and I. So we start talking about it among ourselves.  It seemed strange that they’d just close abruptly like that. But I suppose it’s possible for a family emergency to have come up (it is a very small family owned restaurant).  However, there was no note on the door.  Nothing at all to indicate that there was any change in plans.

    The man and his story were peculiar.  However, with the restaurant appearing completely closed at only 10 minutes to 7:00, it was also something that gave us pause.

    Friendly Faces

    So as we were waiting there and discussing what to do next, another couple came walking up. They were arriving for dinner there too. So I told them what the guy upstairs had said. They were very nice but didn’t seem to readily accept the upstairs man’s story. The woman decides to look inside to see if she can see anyone through the door.

    She turns to me and says she sees movement inside the restaurant. Then a light came on and soon the door opened.  They have not closed after all and were, in fact, open for business as usual.  We laughed and joked about how “convenient” it was that the man upstairs had another restaurant’s business card to refer us to.

    We were seated next to this nice couple and they told us that they see that type of thing happen often in Italy where they are living.  Apparently, it is a common trick people will use. So they knew better than to just believe what the guy upstairs said. We were so happy they came along!

    Dinner at Cantinho Lusitano

    As our delicious food begins arriving at our table, we begin enjoying it.  However, both of us wanted to chat more with our new friends.  We had ordered a mixed plate of black smoked pork sausage that we couldn’t finish on our own.

    Mixed Plate of Black Pork Smoked Sausages
    Mixed Plate of Black Pork Smoked Sausages

    We wanted to offer it to our “neighbors” but were worried as being “that table.”  You know the people who don’t know proper boundaries. The ones that take an innocent hello as an invitation to butt in on your every conversation. Yeah, we didn’t want to be that.

    Spicy Beef Meat Rolls with Mint and Greek Yogurt Sauce
    Spicy Beef Meat Rolls with Mint and Greek Yogurt Sauce
    Baked Goat Cheese with Honey and Rosemary
    Baked Goat Cheese with Honey and Rosemary

    Table Neighbors

    Thankfully, our table neighbors felt the same as us and soon we learned more about Bridget & Caleb.  They are Americans living in Italy and traveling around Europe whenever they have a holiday or free weekend.  Bridget is one of those warm and inviting people, that really takes an interest in what you have to say. She was so encouraging and warm.  Both her and Caleb reminded me of my friends and family back home.

    A couple we sat next to at Cantinho Lusitano
    Our Table Neighbors Caleb & Bridget.

    We spent over an hour after Moe and I had finished our meal just chatting and sharing travel stories. We learned more about their life in Italy and the differences in the culture there and in Europe.

    One of which was the fact that we had been sitting at our table chatting for over an hour after we had finished our food.  And we were never once asked to leave or made to feel like we should ask for our check.  Our waiter was fantastic and was always present without hovering.

    Garlic Shrimp
    Garlic Shrimp

    We had a wonderful night at Cantinho Lusitano and meeting Bridget and Caleb was really the icing on the cake.  It’s also one of the things I love about traveling–meeting other people. There are so many amazing people in the world and whenever I get to meet some of them it always brightens my day and creates a lasting memory that’s far better than any store-bought souvenir.

    To read more about our time in Lisbon check out “Things to Do in Lisbon” and “Day Trip from Lisbon to Sintra, Portugal.”

    Useful Info:

    Cantinho Lusitano – Update 2020 – Cantinho Lusitano is permanently closed
    Rua dos Prazeres, 52
    1200-355 Lisboa, Portugal

    Please note that they are closed on Sundays & Mondays.  Also, reservations are highly recommended!  The restaurant probably only seats about 20 and they fill up quick!

    The Flores Guest House
    https://www.floresguesthouse.com/
    Address: Tv. Piedade 38B, 1200-405 Lisboa, Portugal

    We absolutely loved our stay here! The location, as well as the staff, really make this place a great choice when in Lisbon, Portugal.

  • Day Trip From Lisbon to Sintra Portugal

    The sun is shining on us and we are headed to the Rossio Train Station to catch the train for a day trip from Lisbon to Sintra. On the way we walked down this really steep hill that has some colorful graffiti and tram also covered in bright graffiti.  This tram’s only route is to go up and down this hill all day. (That could get old real quick.)

    Lisbon Graffiti Hill and Colorful Tram
    I’d definitely take this tram up, rather than walk it if I had to go up it every day.

    At the Rossio Train Station

    You go up a series of escalators before you get to the top where the ticketing booths are located.  There were also some ticket machines, but the booths operated by people seemed to be faster. We got our tickets and then headed out to the train headed for Sintra, Portugal. It was already waiting on the platform. (They have regular departures, so no need to reserve in advance.) Also if you happen to have the Lisboa Card, I believe this train’s fare is included with that card.

    Arriving in Sintra, Portugal

    The train to Sintra takes about 40 minutes from Rossio station.  When you arrive you will exit the train station and turn right. Pass all the tuk-tuks and walk over to the buses to find Bus 434.  We spent 6.40€ to ride the bus 434 loop that will take you to the Palace of Pena, stopping at the Moorish castle and making a loop back down to let you off by the National Palace of Sintra before returning you to the train station.  It was the best money we spent! Sintra is hilly! And the Palace of Pena is way too far to walk to from town for our day trip.

    Originally I had planned on visiting the National Palace of Sintra first, but the bus took us straight up to the Moorish Castle and then to the Palace of Pena. However, it worked out as I learned that getting to the Palace of Pena earlier is really the way to go. There were a lot fewer crowds and the weather was better earlier in the day.

    Sintra town square with monument

    Purchasing Tickets:

    The bus drops you off by the ticket offices which are located about a 10-minute walk below the Palace of Pena. We purchased a combo ticket that included both the Palace of Pena as well as the Palace of Sintra.

    Alongside the ticket office, you can choose to pay a tuk-tuk, take a shuttle or walk the remaining way up to the Palace of Pena.  We chose to walk and although it is uphill, it was a very scenic walk thru the trees.  If you are in decent shape and the weather is good, I would recommend it. It took us about 10 minutes to walk up to the palace.

    Palace of Pena

    The Palace of Pena is unlike any other palace we had visited before. This one is so playfully designed and so colorful it is really something special!

    Palace of Pena in Sintra, Portugal

    For me, it was definitely worth the day trip to Sintra.  However had the weather been really awful and rainy, I probably would not have gone.  There is a considerable amount of outdoor walking and viewing involved in appreciating this castle.  You also get to tour the inside, but the outside is really what most people come to see.

    Archway entrance to the Palace of Pena

    On the backside of the palace, you’ll find the below chapel.

    Palace of Pena Chapel
    This is the palace chapel found on the rear side of the Palace of Pena.

    There is also a pathway that circles behind the chapel and leads you along the palace walls.  You can walk all the way around the palace along the wall and catch wonderful views of the Moorish Castle as well as the town of Sintra.

    Moorish castle from palace of pena
    Views of the Moorish Castle from the Palace of Pena walls

    We walked back down the hill from the palace to the bus stop. We caught the next bus (keep your ticket handy to show the driver) and were off to see the Palace of Sintra.

    Snack Break

    We got off the bus and decided to take a snack break before heading to the National Palace of Sintra.  So we stopped at Piriquita, a bakery that was recommended on the Netflix show Somebody Feed Phil.  They have a local style pasteis that are a little different than the kind we ate in Lisbon (click here to read more on that). They were good, but honestly, they don’t hold a candle to Pasteis de Belem.

    We tried both the version that was unique to Sintra as well as the regular Portuguese pasteis. They are served cold – which makes a difference, the one that is long and has a flaky sugar-coated crust was pretty good, it sort of reminded me of a strudel.

    Pasteis de nata and pastries in Sintra Portugal

    Sintra National Palace

    The Palace of Sintra is unique in its own right.  It has two cone-shaped chimneys and a big open square out front with views of the city below.

    Palace of Sintra with two distinct cone shaped chimneys
    Notice the unique cone-shaped chimneys.

    We timed our visit just right as we pretty much had the palace to ourselves. Which was very apparent when I would attempt to walk across the floors and my shoes would squeak, squeak, squeak with every step.  It was really funny and annoying at the same time.

    Wooden desk with tiled fireplace

    The Sintra National Palace has rooms with unique ceilings and wood furniture, walls with beautiful tiling, an enormous Murano glass chandelier, a garden, it’s own chapel and much more.

    Blue & White Tiled Walls

    I know most people will probably come to Sintra to see the Palace of Pena, but I highly recommend also visiting the National Palace of Sintra.

    Murano glass chandelier at Palace of Sintra

    Afterward, we left the palace and walked back down the street to where the bus had let us off before and got on the next bus (showing our receipt again) that soon dropped us off at the train station.

    Back in Lisbon

    We ended our last night in Lisbon doing laundry.  Yeah I know, real glamorous, but you have to do it sometime!  Also, a laundromat is a great place to meet people. We met a Brazilian man who was in Lisbon studying to get his Master’s degree.  It was great learning about his perspective on living in both Lisbon and in Brazil.

    For more on how we spent our first two days in Lisbon read about it here on Things to Do in Lisbon. And if you’re looking for a great place for dinner in Lisbon check out my experience at Cantinho Lusitano.

    Useful Info:

    • Rossio Train Station & Oriente Tran Station are the two main train stations for getting to Sintra from Lisbon.  Check out their timetables here.
    • Bus 434 in Sintra will take you on a loop starting at the train station going to the Moorish Castle, Palace of Pena, National Palace of Sintra and back to the train station.
    • Uber in Lisbon is very affordable, you can check out Uber fares.
  • Things to Do In Lisbon, Portugal

    What are some things to do in Lisbon, Portugal?  How should you spend your time there?  Well, however, you want of course!  Travel is about the experience, so don’t get too hung up on seeing everything your first time. Enjoy all the new sights, food and culture of your new destination.  

    Here’s how I spent 2 days in Lisbon, Portugal to get you started with some ideas.

    Where: Lisbon, Portugal
    How Long: 2 Days
    Weather: Mostly rainy and windy
    Traveling Companion: Moe (my childhood friend, read more about our friendship here)
    Day 1: The Jeronimos Monastery, Monument to the Discoveries, Pasteis de Belem
    Day 2: Riding Tram 28, Alfama Neighborhood, LX Factory
    Useful Info: Getting Around, Where We Stayed, Places to Eat


    Day 1

     

    We stayed at the Flores Guest House while in Lisbon and they had the cutest breakfast delivery ever! Each room had a little hook outside the door where they would deliver your breakfast basket by 8:00 a.m. every morning.  Then whenever you were up and ready, you just opened your front door and retrieved your basket.

    The baskets are filled with fruit, bread, meat and cheese, juice and a “surprise” item, that usually consisted of fresh baked good.  You could put in requests to tailor the basket more to your preferences. For example, we asked instead of the meat and cheese if we could just have extra fruit for the rest of our stay.

    Basket of fruit and pastries from hotel in Lisbon
    This basket was made up of croissants, rolls, fruit, jam and orange juice.

    So after enjoying our lovely breakfast, we went to catch the bus to visit the Jeronimos Monastery.  

    Jeronimos Monastery  Lisbon, Portugal

    TIPS:

    • Arrive early (preferably before noon) as the lines can get long.  
    • The Jeronimos Monastery costs €10. You can pay an additional €2 for a combo ticket to also visit their National Archaeological Museum.
    • Additionally, you can also purchase this combo ticket at the National Archaeology Museum (in case the ticket line at the monastery is too long – purchase there and then skip the line at the monastery) OR you can also buy a combo ticket at Belem Tower should you choose to see that first.
    • Plan to visit Pasteis de Belem either before or after, it’s totally worth it!

    For more information on hours and directions visit the official Jeronimos Monastery website.

     

    Jeronimos Monastery in Lisbon Portugal.
    This view is across the street from the beautiful Jeronimos Monastery.

    The Monastery is 500 years old and is beautiful inside and out.  It is architecturally stunning! The intricate carvings all throughout it will keep you gasping in awe as you walk around each corner and discover something new. It is no wonder that it has been classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  

    Jeronimos Monastery Cloister
    The cloister inside the monastery.

    Jeronimos Monastery is constructed out of limestone and took 100 years to build.  I can just imagine them chiseling out the beautiful carvings by hand.  That’s some dedication to detail!

    Jeronimos Monastery gargoyles
    There are faces, creatures and designs carved everywhere.
    Limestone archways
    Beautiful limestone archways that overlook the cloister.

    Pasteis de Belem   Lisbon, Portugal

    After visiting the Monastery we walked a few blocks up the street to try pastel de nata at Pasteis de Belem.  Pastel de nata (or pasteis de nata for plural) is a Portuguese custard tart and is a must try when in Lisbon. Pasteis de Belem was the top rated place to have pasteis de nata in all of Lisbon.  They use the same recipe that the monks at Jeronimos Monastery created in 1837.

    Pasteis de Belem history
    Now that’s a recipe with some history!

    Navigating Pasteis de Belem

    It can be a little confusing when you first arrive at Pasteis de Belem.  Outside at the furthest entrance, we found a HUGE line of people waiting to buy pasteis to go.  However, we wanted to sit inside and take a break from the rain.

    The first entrance you reach when walking from the monastery is the entrance for those wanting to sit inside.  You’ll see the entrance and the cashier line for those purchasing to-go orders to your right as you walk inside.

    When you enter you will want to follow the blue signs (straight and to the right) for “Table Service: Service de Mesa 400 Seats” until you reach another sign that says “Queue for Seating.”  Don’t panic if it seems really long, with 400 seats the line moves very quickly! 

    Plate of pasteis Portuguese custard tarts
    What a beautiful sight! These are enough to make me want to return to Lisbon, Portugal.

    We both decided to get 6 of the pasteis, some hot chocolate (if a cup of thick, molten chocolate is your thing you’ll want to try it too) and a pot of tea.  Hey, this was going to be our lunch and not just a snack, so don’t judge us.

    Portuguese custard tarts covered in cinnamon and sugar
    Now to add that nice coating of cinnamon & sugar!

    Our plate of pasteis arrived, we each took one and added the obligatory cinnamon and powdered sugar on top.  DON’T SKIP THIS PART. Sorry, don’t mean to yell, but the cinnamon really adds that extra
    something special.

    Then we bit into the pastry, it had a crispy flaky outer shell with a warm custard filling that made you smile and go mmmm.  For something that appears to be so simple, it was really very delicious. I ate all 6 of mine and drank my whole pot of tea! Oh yeah, that’s how I roll. Moe was the runner up with 4 pasteis, pretty good for her first time. And you can see below that she thoroughly enjoyed them.

    Girl eating Portuguese custard tart
    Moe is having her “mmmm good moment” eating her first pasteis de nata.

    After we slowly waddled, I mean walked out of the cafe, we decided since the rain had stopped for the moment that we’d walk over to the Monument to the Discoveries or as it’s also known: Monument to Henry the Navigator.

    The Monument to the Discoveries   Lisbon, Portugal

    The monument is really impressive!  It is huge and rises up alongside the water.  I loved the beautiful map they had built into the ground using stones and pictures.  From the monument, you can also get nice views (at least when the weather is good) of the April 24th Bridge as well as the large Christo Rei or Christ the King statue (it looks similar to Brazil’s Christ the Redeemer statue).

    Girl walking by The Monument to the Discoveries in Lisbon, Portugal
    Moe walking along the water.

    There’s a great boardwalk where you can watch sailboats pass by or wander over to the marina.  If the weather is nice you can also take the sidewalk along the road to walk down to the Tower of Belem.  Due to the weather, we chose to skip this. But the tower is beautiful and would have lovely views on a sunny day. There is also a viewing area from inside the Monument of Discoveries as well as historical information regarding the monument.

    Sailboats and bird by water in Lisbon Portugal
    If you look you can just make out the small silhouette of the Christ the King statue in the background by the bridge.

    National Archaeological Museum

    It began to rain again, so we made our way to the National Archaeological Museum. Its entrance is just to the left (when facing it) of the Monastery.  Since it had only been an extra €2 we had purchased the combo ticket at the Jeronimos Monastery.

    The archaeological museum is very small, but it has some nice exhibits on Egyptian and Roman artifacts as well as a small area for archaeological items specific to Portugal.  If you have extra time and are interested in archaeology and ancient artifacts, then the €2 will probably be worth it. If you’re pressed for time or just don’t have any interest, it is definitely not a “must-see.”

    Archaeological Artifact at museum in Lisbon Portugal
    This was an ancient “doll” that had movable arms and legs.

    We caught the next bus back to our guest house and along the way we enjoyed views of the beautifully tiled buildings and the ancient aqueduct that was built in the 1700s.  It is one of the few structures to survive the Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755. 

    Day 2

    Tram 28

    It is raining even harder today. We were thoroughly soaked on our way to the historical Tram 28 stop.  Our hope is to get a nice tour of the city as we ride it up to Saint George’s Castle.

    We get on the tram and it is very full and the windows are fogged over.  We laugh about our “scenic ride.” Eventually, someone opens up some windows and that does help with the fogging.  However, the tram continues to pick up more and more passengers and at one point there was a ticket officer squeezing through the crowd to check that we all had valid tickets.

    That, by the way, is a fairly common procedure that we’ve seen throughout our travels in Europe.  They will pass through on the subways, buses, and trains checking to make sure everyone has paid. Usually, this seems to happen on the weekend vs the weekdays.  So it’s always good to make sure you have a valid ticket or pass. You can be hit with hefty fines or as we saw on one train, the police might even be called in.

    Yellow street tram in Lisbon Portugal
    Although not Tram 28, we saw this one when hopping off in Alfama.

    Due to the fogging of the windows, I would recommend taking Tram 28 on a sunny day if you’re hoping for a scenic ride. For us, it was mainly a mode of transportation.

    Walk thru the Alfama neighborhood to St. George’s Castle (Castelo de Sao Jorge)

    We hopped off Tram 28 and took time to soak in the views around us.  We were now in Alfama, the medieval neighborhood in Lisbon that survived the great earthquake, tsunami, and fire of 1755 (talk about the ultimate trifecta of destruction!).  It is a charming neighborhood with smaller streets, shops, and cafes. It has a different feel than the “newer” neighborhoods that were rebuilt after 1755.

    Looking over the top of the Alfama Neighborhood in Lisbon.
    Alfama Neighborhood with St George’s Castle on the hill.

    We walked up to the Castle but decided due to the rainy weather to not pay to go inside, the castle is mostly outdoors and one of its highlights is walking the old walls and taking in the views — views which we didn’t have on this stormy day.  So I’ll save that for another visit.

    The walk to the castle though was an interesting one.  We passed through an area with old ruins that had been turned into an outdoor studio for graffiti artists.  

    girl pretending to touch graffiti finger on the wall
    Having fun with the graffiti

    There was also an outdoor urinal, which as an American, was quite a novelty and the first we’d seen on our travels. So we couldn’t miss that photo opp!

    Outdoor urinal with a girl inside it.
    Moe is peeking over the urinal door.

    Next up was the LX Factory, so we hopped a bus and headed that way.

    LX Factory   Lisbon, Portugal

    Bumblebee Art Sculpture in Lisbon's LX Factory
    This must bee the place. (Oh yeah I said that!)

    The LX Factory is an old warehouse district turned artsy.  There are art studios, cafes, bookstores and outdoor art sculptures all inside this old factory area.  Once inside the LX Factory gates, you’ve got warehouses on each side of a small street.  We made our way to the bookstore, Ler Devagar, and stepped inside not a moment too soon. We heard the rain just thunder down on the metal roof and I said to Moe “boy we made it here just in time!”  

    Ler Devagar

    View of artsy Lisbon bookstore from the second floor.
    Looking down on this creative bookstore.

    The bookstore is so cute! It has multiple levels of books, both used and new to search through.  There is also a fairly large selection of English books. Additionally, they have a cafe so you can grab a comfy seat and have a cup of coffee while reading a book – or in our case – listening to the rain.

    Unicycle art decoration in bookstore in Lisbon Portugal.
    I loved all the hanging art pieces.

    We spent time looking upstairs where they have their used books selection as well as a small local artist exhibit.  Then we wandered back downstairs by the cafe and found a comfy seat by the window to watch the rain and look through some books.  We even had fun finding Waldo in the “Where’s Waldo Book” we found in the children’s section. Hey, we’re still kids at heart!

    We eventually decided that although it is still raining cats and dogs outside that we would quickly dash out and into the adjoining cafe next door.  We go inside WISH Slow Coffee House and put our name on the list. It’s about a 20-minute wait as they are quite busy with all of us trying to escape the rain.

    WISH Slow Coffee House

    Soon we are seated at a window seat that gives us a view of the main street in front of the shops.  We are warm and comfy as we leisurely sit here and watch the people pass by with their umbrellas or those not-so-fortunate without umbrellas dashing as fast as they can.  Then there’s the guy not looking where he’s going and sploosh he steps right into a puddle. Ahh man!

    People walking with umbrellas in the rain
    People watching from a dry seat.

    It was so relaxing and fun to just be sitting there in this refurbished warehouse eating lunch while watching the rain and the people passing by.  I sat there and thought to myself, I am in Lisbon, in a cafe. It didn’t matter that I wasn’t out sightseeing, I was experiencing the city right where I sat. Moe soon turned to me and said, “I’m having a really great time.” It was nice that we both felt the same about this very simple, yet enjoyable moment.

    Bagel Sandwich
    A delicious grilled pear with goat cheese bagel sandwich.

    We stayed there for over 2 hours just watching people and enjoying the ambiance and good food.

    We tried the carrot cake for dessert and it was some of the best carrot cake I have ever eaten!  Not to mention the Jasmine tea they served us was top notch! I also tried their slow-roasted coffee as they slow roast their beans in house.  They have a variety of good coffee choices to try.

    Uber & Making Our Own Adventure at the Mall

    The rain had no intentions of letting up, so we decided we’d go watch a movie at a nearby mall (they show them in their original language throughout Portugal). We requested an Uber, which met us at the door so we could avoid getting wet. It was great! Oh and Uber in Lisbon is VERY affordable! I highly recommend using it here, there were a couple of times where it was cheaper for us to split the fare for Uber than take the bus.

    At the Mall

    The movie we planned to see was sold out, so we went shopping instead! Soon what was just casual browsing turned into a friendly competition of who could try on the ugliest outfit.  Now that was fun! Although not as much fun when we actually saw ourselves in the silly outfits…

    We grabbed dinner in the mall and hailed another Uber ride back to the guest house.  

    Although Day 2 wasn’t our typical “see it all” style of sightseeing, it was a lot of fun and memorable. And that’s how it should be, don’t hold to tightly to your “to-do” list while traveling, leave room for change and spontaneity.  You never know what memories you might create.

    To learn about our visit to the Palace of Pena on our final day in Lisbon, read about it here: Day Trip to Sintra, Portugal.

    Final Thoughts on Visiting Lisbon

    Everyone here has been so friendly! Really, we’ve met nothing but helpful people, friendly people and they have a great sense of humor here too.  And the food! Not to mention the beautifully tiled buildings!

    To say I enjoyed my time here in Lisbon would be putting it mildly.  I hope to return and explore the entire country of Portugal in greater depth in the future. We just touched the tip of the iceberg on things to do in Lisbon, there was so much more to see!

    There are amazing, friendly people everywhere and traveling never fails to reveal this to me.

    USEFUL INFO:

    Getting Around Lisbon, Portugal:

    Purchase 24-hour transit passes or single-use passes from any metro station (including at the Lisbon airport). There are also some local stores that sell it as we purchased ours from the newspaper store by our hotel.

    We used the Viva Viagem 24 hour carris/metro card. This allowed us unlimited travel on the metro, bus, trams & funicular for a 24 hour period.  Check out this article from Lisbon Guru for more information regarding their metro cards. 

    There is also a Lisboa Card which is a sightseeing pass, we didn’t use these on our trip, however, you can check it out and see whether or not it makes sense for your visit.

    Uber in Lisbon: https://www.uber.com/cities/lisbon/

    Uber was incredibly affordable and often cheaper and more efficient than using public transportation.

    Where We Stayed:

    The Flores Guest House
    https://www.facebook.com/floresguesthouse/ 
    Address: Tv. Piedade 38B, 1200-405 Lisboa, Portugal

    They have the cutest breakfast delivery I’ve ever had.  They leave a breakfast basket outside your door each morning by 8:00 a.m. for you to retrieve when you’re ready.

    I would definitely stay at Flores Guest House again, it is located near excellent restaurants all within minutes of walking and the staff that runs it could not have been more helpful and kind.  We really enjoyed our stay there.

    Restaurants we enjoyed:

    Cantinho Lusitano – 2020 Update – Cantinho Lusitano is permanently closed
    Rua dos Prazeres 52, 1200-355 Lisboa, Portugal
    Overall Thoughts: Love the small dining atmosphere, the service was impeccable, food was delicious, I highly recommend it! To read more about our adventures at dinner, please check out this article “Dinner at Cantinho Lusitano.”

    Churrasqueira da Paz
    R. Paz 80, 1200-320 Lisboa, Portugal
    https://www.facebook.com/Churrasqueiradapaz/

    Pasteis de Belem
    R. de Belém 84-92, 1300-085 Lisboa, Portugal
    https://www.facebook.com/pasteisdebelempaginaoficial/

    WISH Concept Store & Slow Coffee House
    Espaço G 02a, R. Rodrigues de Faria 103, 1300-472 Lisboa, Portugal
    https://www.facebook.com/wishslowcoffeehouse/